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Pizzo Cassandra
Mountain/Rock

Pizzo Cassandra

 
Pizzo Cassandra

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Sondrio, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.25940°N / 9.76200°E

Object Title: Pizzo Cassandra

Activities: Mountaineering, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer

Elevation: 10583 ft / 3226 m

 

Page By: Gabriele Roth

Created/Edited: Feb 11, 2004 / Oct 22, 2008

Object ID: 152315

Hits: 6837 

Page Score: 83.1%  - 16 Votes 

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Overview

This summit belongs to the Masino-Bregaglia-Disgrazia chain and is a very fine mountain between the Monte Disgrazia and Bernina Group.

Entirely in Italy it grows up from the Ghiacciaio della Ventina.
Due to its wonderful scenery and low difficulty of the normal route it is often climbed in summer from people spending holidays in Chiareggio or Chiesa Valmalenco.

This summit is better known for its north wall and the fine ski mountaneering possibilities (BSA).

His summit can be easy reached with the SW ridge (normal route), starting from Passo Cassandra (3097 m) ... careful with fresh snow ... only one simple pass of rock climbing (easy).
Can be reached easily also by the NE ridge - from Forcella Balabio (3000 m) the pass ot the east side of Pizzo Cassandra
South sides are of no climbing importance

Passo Cassandra can also be reached in about 3 hours from Rifugio Ponti (2559 m) or Rifugio Bosio (2086 m), which are stations on the well-known Sentiero Roma hiking trail: From Bivacco Desio (ruine!) at Passo di Corna Rossa (2836 m) there is a marked route (only spots but no prepared trail!) along the SE side of Monte Disgrazia to Passo Cassandra (thank to Mathias)

Getting There

From Milan, follow the SS36 (Spluga e Stelvio) till Sondrio (136 km).
At the beginning of the town (rotation) choose on the left to Valmalenco.
After 12.6 km road reaches picturesque Chiesa in Valmalenco (960 m).
Follow signs toward Chiareggio (12 km)

At the south boundary of Chiareggio you can park the car and, through a bridge over a little river enter in Val Ventina
1 hour of comfortable walk brings you to Rifugio Porro (1960 m)

For the ones who want to climb north wall, spending the night in the Rifuge is the better solution.
The normal route can be easily done in one day starting directly from Chiareggio






the north wall

450 m drop - AD - 45°-50° - it is a perfect way to start knowing the snow-ice climbing.
Definitely more engaging and steep then the famous Ciarforon north wall (classic)

Descent can be done using the WNW wall (AD) - 300m - to the right of NNW spur.

Pizzo Cassandra - north wall 1
 
Pizzo Cassandra - north wall 2
 
Pizzo Cassandra - north wall 3
 
Pizzo Cassandra - north wall 4
 
Pizzo Cassandra - north wall 5
 
Pizzo Cassandra - north wall 6
 


When To Climb

march-may for ski-mountaneering
june-july for north wall
june-september for normal route


Maps

Kompass 1:50000 hiking map Nr. 93 "Bernina Sondrio"
Swiss map 1:50000 Nr. 278 "Monte Disgrazia"

Images