Făgăraş Mountains : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Munţii Făgăraşului (ro) - Fogarasi-havasok (hu) - Fogarascher Gebirge (de)

The Făgăraş Mountains are the longest continuous ridge in the Carpathians.

Lespezi-Călţun (left) and Negoiu (right of center) - a triple crown of the Făgăraş

The Făgăraş Mountains belong to the South Carpathians and are one of the most impressive mountain ranges in Romania. They are the country's highest and largest mountains, covering an area of 3,000 square kilometers. Across the Carpathians, there is only one mountain range which is higher than the Făgăraş, namely the Tatra Mountains which rise at the opposite, northern end of the Carpathian arc. The main ridge of the Făgăraş Mountains forms a massive spine, which extends west to east in a fairly straight line for more than 70 kilometres - from the valley of the Olt River to the Piatra Craiului Mountains and the Iezer Mountains. The main crest never drops below 2000m over a distance of about 50 km. In the Făgăraş Mountains sit eight of the 14 Romania's peaks rising above 2500m. There are also at least 42 peaks whose elevations fall within the 2400-2500m brackets. The highest peak of both the Făgăraş Mountains and Romania is called Moldoveanu and rises to 2544m in the eastern chunk of the Făgăraş. But no less renowned than Moldoveanu is Negoiu: rockier, reigning in the west, at 2535m the 2nd highest summit in Romania.

East Central

Capra neagra peak 2494m, Fagaras mountains

Central Făgăraş

West Central

The wild beauty of the landscapes: a great number of prominent peaks, narrow crests, deep valleys and picturesque tarns prompted the French scientist Emmanuel de Martonne to refer to the Făgăraş Mountains as the Transylvanian Alps. This nickname is more often used, however, for all of the South Carpathians. The Făgăraş Mountains form the bulk of a little bigger mountain group which is named after them and which contains the Făgăraş proper and a couple of mountains a bit farther south: the Coziei Mountains and the Iezer Mountains. In fact, the latter can be thought of as part of the Făgăraş proper. On the other hand, among the extremely long lateral ridges branching off the main ridge to run southward there are two that are sometimes listed as separate mountain ranges: the Frunţii Mountains (spur branching off at Negoiu) and the Ghiţu Mountains (spur branching off not far from Moldoveanu). They can be easily located on the map as they have become separated by a big dam called Lake Vidraru.

May these wise words of a Romanian poet, Lucian Blaga be the best invitation to the top of Romania: "God, please stop the clock with which you measure eternity."

Movie created by LukZem during his two visits to the Făgăraş: part 1/10

Moldoveanu, 2544m - the highest point of Romania - as seen from SE

Negoiu, 2535m - the second highest mountain in Romania

Altogether there are eight peaks that rise over 2500 meters:

Summit	Height in Metres a.s.l.	Photo	A few words about
Moldoveanu	2544		The highest peak of both the Făgăraş and Romania. It is surrounded by peaks at above 2400m, so its summit can't be seen from the north foot of the Făgăraş Mountains
Negoiu	2535		The second highest mountain in Romania, located in the main ridge in the western, jagged part of the Făgăraş, notorious for unstable weather.
Viştea Mare	2527		The mountain brother of Moldoveanu (i.e. the lower summit of the massif: on the left), sitting right in the main ridge, about 20 minutes' walk from Moldoveanu. The massif can be easily recognized from afar thanks to its characteristic, trapezoid shape.
Lespezi	2517		In the western, jagged part of the Făgăraş, near Călţun Lake, can be seen as the highest summit of the Călţun-Lespezi Massif
Vânătoarea lui Buteanu	2507		In the central part of the mountains, just near the Transfăgăraşan Road. It is said to turn bluish-black when a storm is approaching.
Hârtopu	2506		In the eastern, grassy part of the Făgăraş Mountains
Călţun	2505		Close to Lespezi Peak, towers over Lake Călţun, no marked trail to the summit
Dara	2500		In the eastern, grassy part of the Făgăraş Mountains, close to Hârtopu Peak

Negoiu (2535m) and Şerbota (2331m)

What rocks (and whom)

Vanatoarea lui Buteanu 2507m, Fagaras, Romania

Mountaineering

Backpacking

In summer, the Făgăraş Mountains are a paradise for backpackers, who usually attempt to trek along the main ridge. Such a trek takes 5 to 7 days, most people are carrying a tent. On days of inclement weather - virtually unavoidable in these mountains, usually swept by high winds and often battered by storms - shelter can be sought in one of the few rudimentary refuges (see Huts and Refuges), of which the refuge by Lake Călţun is the best-known and the best-known and usually packed with people at night. The most difficult section of the marked trail running along the main ridge is near the peaks of Şerbota and Negoiu (UIAA I, partly fixed with cables or chains: Custura Sărăţii, Strunga Dracului, Strunga Ciobanului; "strunga" = couloir), in the western part of the Făgăraş.

Lake Călţun from the summit of Lespezi (no marked trail)

Lack of rocks such as granite results in technical climbing in summer being limited to a couple of places, of which the impressive crag of Colţul Bălăceni at the head of the Sâmbăta Valley boasts routes rated up to V (UIAA). In winter, a wider area offers many a breath-taking mountaineering option, and the traverse of the main ridge is quite an endeavor. Along a route of over 70km you will be slogging along a wild ridge with many tricky cornices, and you will have to traverse many places where the avalanche danger is high. In February 1972, a German-Czechoslovak team succeeded in doing the traverse of the highest and rockiest part of the main crest, covering thirty-six summits at above 2300m. The feat took them as much as 12 days. Apart from the main ridge, the northern spurs - wild, cut off from the crowds, shattered, abrupt, partly vegetated – can also make for memorable climbs which can be graded at about 3B. An easy but pretty attractive route, which starts at Zmeilor Pass, runs over the summits of Vârtopel(1B) and Arpăşel(3A) with the Rabbit's Ears. As far as skiing is concerned, there is plenty of terrain for skiers of various skill. Good, natural slopes can be found near the following huts: Urlea, Sâmbăta, Turnuri, Podragu, Capra, Bâlea, Negoiu, Bârcaciu, Capra. Ski alpinism will be cool on the north-south crossings, there are plenty spots for extreme skiing, while ski touring on the southern ridges you will be practically cut off from civilization.

Colţul Bălăceni, 2286m

Fereastra Zmeilor

On the crest

The Făgăraş Mountains are formed mostly of metamorphic rocks, such as gneiss and schists. In few places thin layers of limestone can be found. The relief of the mountains was shaped by Pleistocene glaciers, hence the U-shaped valleys divided by jagged crests. In the northern valleys the glaciers were up to 5 km long. On the other, southern side the Valea Rea Glacier had a lenght of 9 km. The northern slopes of the Făgăraş Mountains, facing Transylvania, are shorter and steeper, whereas the lateral ridges and valleys south of the main ridge drop toward the sunny Muntenia more gradually, being up to 30 km long. Therefore, they are deserted and wild - very few hikers have roamed the area.

panorama of western Fagaras Mountains viewed from Moldoveanu peak

Western part of the Făgăraş viewed from Moldoveanu

Summer traverse of the main ridge: West to East

The wild spurs branching off the main ridge

When To Go & Climate

Arpaşu Mic during sunrise

Typical phenomenon

If you are a hiker you should come in summer. Early autumn can also be a wonderful - besides being colorful - time, but all this varies between years. As for the summer, August seems to be best, July tends to be very rainy. Some summers have been kind of horror: hurricane force winds, frequent thunderstorms, torrential rains, freezing weather. You'd better be careful when planning your trip. You must realize that a walk-up from the foothils to the main ridge takes at least 10 hours. It is good to start the ascent early in the morning, when the weather conditions are favourable. In winter and spring, the risk of avalanches is usually high.

13 July 2009 (worthy of a click: mini-TR inside)

Morning on Şaua Şerbotei

The climate of the Făgăraş Mountains is alpine and is harsher than the climate of most of the mountain ranges the Carpathians are made up of. The average temperature, the intensity of the winds and the level of precipitation depend on the altitude and the orientation of the mountain faces. The Făgăraş Mountains are characterized by the highest amount of rainfall, which reaches an annual 1400 mm/year.The average yearly temperature in the alpine regions (above 2000m a.s.l) is -2°C. Encountering patches of snow in mid-June is not a rare thing. Across the Carpathian Mountains, the most frequent avalanches occur in the Făgăraş. Also, the most deadly accidents have been registered here. The climate of the Făgăraş climate has peculiarities determined by the size of this massif and the west-east orientation of the ridge. The north slope blocks the cool, wet air coming from the Atlantic and from the north of Europe, and the south slope blocks the Mediterranean and tropical air, which leads to the natural timberline (bear in mind that centuries of grazing have lowered it considerably) running higher on the southern flank. This is the only place where we can watch the enchanting cascades of surging fog, which make the heights seem endless, envelop the rocks in a mysterious shawl, and then unexpectedly open a window on the world below, where the green meadows are bathed in sunshine. In contrast to the rockier northern valleys, the southern slopes - grassy, descending more gently - are the territory of an intensive pastoral life.

Flora & Fauna

Flora The diversity of vegetation cover is determined by altitude.

Rhododendron

Saxifraga

Dianthus glacialis

Campanula

Submountain zone reaches 1200 meters in altitude. Mean annual temperature is 4-6°C and the vegetation cover is formed by deciduous forests. Various species of flowers can be found here: the creeping bellflower Campanula rapunculoides, matragon lily Lilium martagon, Trifolium alpestre,globe-flower Trollius altissimus or autumn crocus Colchicum autumnale

Mountain zone begins at 1200m and extends up to 1500m. It is a domain of the coniferous forest. On the south face of the mountains, the upper border of both the deciduous and pine forests run 150-200 meters higher than on the steeper and colder north face. Open moist meadows are the best habitat for orchid species.

Subalpine zone stretches from 1500m to 2000m. It is the domain of the mountain pine and the common juniper. From the floristic point of view it is the most interesting habitat. In spring it is covered by enchanting carpets of crocuses. The mountain cornflower Cyanus montanus and the mountain garlic gow here. Allium montanum. The typical representative of this zone is the Carpathian rhododendron with its red shining flowers.

Alpine zone in the Făgăraş Mountains begins at 2000m and reaches the highest peaks. The alpine pastures are covered by sedges. It is the best habitat for some extremely rare species of flora - relics from glacial period like Dianthus glacialis. Among other important species are the alpine bellflower Campanula alpina, Primula elatior, Hieracium alpinum, Leontopodium alpinum, Aconitum and Saxifraga
In the Făgăraş Mountains, the flora and richest in the subalpine and alpine areas. In comparison with mountains, the Făgăraş boast the largest number of endemic species of flowers - they can't be encountered anywhere else in the world.

Fauna

Fauna of the Făgăraş Mountains is typical of the high mountain zone. The most representative animal of the highest alpine areas is the Carpathian Chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra carpatica). Many populations of this subspecies occur throughout the Transylvanian Alps. Carpathian Chamois are slightly bigger than their relatives in the Alps. As a species, the chamois is still common and not threatened. However, several subspecies are on the IUCN's Red List of Threatened Animals. There have been a number of successful reintroductions.

Another animal typical of the Făgăraş Mountains is marmot. Unfortunately, this largest squirrel species is on the verge of extinction. Among the big birds of prey that soar over the mountains are the eagle and the vulture. There is also the big forest game: the Carpathian brown bear, the deer and wild boar. As for the bears, however, their population is relatively small (fewer than a hundred individuals) compared to some other Carpathian mountains. Most of them still keep away from humans and don't constitute such a big threat as the depraved bears of the Bucegi Mountains.

Carpathian chamois

Alpine accentor

Golden eagle

Flora of Făgăraş Mountains, by LukZem

Mountain Lakes

Lake Călţun

Cascada Bâlea

The Făgăraş Mountains have the densest water network in Romania. The most popular waterfall is called Cascada Bâlea.

Mountain lakes, or tarns, are truly jewels of nature and they are said to be the pearls of mountains. To some they resemble big or small mirrors scattered in the mountain valleys - emerald green, dark blue or black in color - enhance the mountain landscapes greatly. They are precious relics of the past epoch when the valleys were filled with glaciers which gouged the rock under their cold bodies. The tarns of the Făgăraş are full of splendour and magnificence but they are also sources of crystal-clear water which, however, must be boiled before drinking.

The largest natural lake of the Făgăraş is Bâlea Lake (46 acres), Podragu Lake is the deepest (15.5 m) and Mioarelor Lake is situated at the highest altitude (2282 m).

Bâlea lake

Thousands of shining pearls

Mioarelor lake

Lake	Altitude(m)	Area(ha)	Depth(m)	Photo	Location
Avrig	2007	1.5	4.5		In the western part of the Făgăraş, at the foot of Ciortea (2400m)
Călţun	2135	0.8	12		In a cute cirque in the west-central part. Lespezi-Călţun-Negoiu Peaks at about 2500m form a magnificent background.
Bâlea	2030	4.7	11.35		The biggest lake in the Făgăraş Mountains, part of a crowded tourist resort, located in the middle part of the main ridge by the Transfăgărăşan Road.
Capra	2249	1.8	8		A little east of Bâlea Lake, under the peak of Vânătoarea lui Buteanu. (2507m)
Podu Giurgiului	2220	0.2	3		In the central-eastern part surrounded by Arpaşu Mare and Mircii peaks (2460m)
Podragu	2110	2.8	15.5		The deepest of the lakes, sitting in a cirque in the central part of the range.
Valea Rea	2160	0.45	12		Sitting in the eastern part just under Moldoveanu-Viştea Mare massif
Urlea	2194	2	4.5		Located in the eastern part near Urlea peak (2473m)
Mioarelor	2282	0.3	2		The highest lake, encircled by a massive spur with Dara and Hârtopu summits (2500m)

Capra Lake

Jewel of nature

Capra Lake

Lakes in Făgăraş Mountains, by LukZem

Getting There

Transfăgăraşan Road
in summer

Transfăgăraşan Road
in winter

It can get crowded
near the Făgăraş

Most of the routes start from the DN1 highway between the cities of Sibiu and Făgăraş. On the south side most routes begin at Curtea de Argeş, although there are two which run from the Olt Valley up the western reaches of the mountains and there is an eastern route which runs west from the foot of the Piatra Craiului Mountains, namely from Plaiul Foii Hut, accessible from the town of Zărneşti (railway station).

In the early 1970s the Transfăgăraşan Road was built between Arpaşu de Jos - Bâlea Waterfall - Lake Bâlea - Vidraru Artificial Lake - Curtea de Argeş. This second highest road in Romania is 90 km long and at an altitude of 2042 meters turns into a tunnel dug under the main crest of the Făgăraş Mountains. Due to severe weather conditions, the road is only passable in the summer period (approx. 3 months a year). Between Cascada Bâlea Hut (1234m) and Lake Bâlea (2030m) a cable car runs almost all year round.

For current weather conditions on the Transfăgăraşan Road check out this live webcam:
Jurnalul National Balea Lac-Transfagarasan

Bucharest airports

German Railways

Romanian Railways

Bucureşti-Sibiu
Braşov-Sibiu
Sibiu-Turnu Roşu

Tips to help you drive acrosss Romania: on the outstanding Retezat page by Peterbud

Big Brothers

Red Tape, Camping, Dangers

Because the Făgăraş Mountains are not a National Park yet, you can pitch the tent practically everywhere.

There are only a few nature reserves in the Făgăraş Mountains, namely: the area around Lake Bâlea, the clearing with daffodils near Vad, the hunting reserve in the Arpaşul Valley and the fossils reserve near Turnul Roşu. Although the Făgăraş Mountains are home to many unique species of the Carpathian animals and plants, the number of nature reserves isn't big yet.

Dangers in summer:

Bad weather, slippery rock

Flock-guarding dogs (see description and comments below this pic)

Bears (they're not as much of a problem as in the Bucegi Mountains since they're not depraved by tourists yet): try to put up your tent above timberline, don't keep food inside, check out the following link to find out how to behave if you meet a bear.

Adders (a bite shouldn't kill you unless you're allergic but serum will be necessary)

Not always this peaceful, and not always are the shepherds around.

Huts & Refuges

The main range of the Făgăraş Mountains is completely free of any hostels. There is a network of mountain refugees scattered in each section of the Făgăraş Mountains.

Refuge	Altitude (meters)	Nearby Peaks	Nearest source of water (minutes)	Capacity (persons)	Location
Berevoiescu	2190	Berevoiescu peak (2300m)			Easternmost Făgăraş, 800m from Peak Berevoiescu Mare
Zârnei	1923	Zârnei(2223m), Leaota(2312m)	5	12	Zârnei saddle in the eastern part
Fereastra Mica - Cheia Bandei	2150	Gălăsescu Mic(2438m), Slăninei(2268m)	10	20	Fereastra Mica saddle in the eastern part
Portiţa Viştei	2310	Moldoveanu (2544m), Viştea Mare (2527m)	20	12	In the eastern part close to Romania's highest summit. RENOVATED
Podu Giurgiului	2222	Arpaşu Mare (2468m), Podragu (2462m), Mircii (2461m)	1	12	In the central part close to a lake. DAMAGED!!!Not a good option due to a garbageall around
Fereastra Zmeilor	2050	Arpaşu Mic (2460m)	10	16	Central Făgăraş, at the bottom of Fundul Caprei cirque RENOVATED
Călţun	2135	Lespezi (2517m), Călţun (2505m), Negoiu (2535m)	1	18	In the west, near Călţun Lake
Scara	2 146	Scara (2306m)	5	16	In the westernmost part of the mountains NEW

Situated at 2136m, Podragu Hut is the highest tourist hut in the Făgăraş Mountains.Located at 2044m, Paltinul Hut is the best known hut just near the Transfăgăraşan road.

Călţun Refuge

Podragu Hut

Paltinu Hut

Hut, altitude in meters a.s.l.	Nearby Peaks	Nearest Train Station/DN	www/e-mail	Telephone/Mobile	Remarks
Suru, 1450	Suru (2283m), Tătarul (1890m)	Sebeşul de Sus		0723 201 410	Rebuilt near the ruins of the old hut, another smaller hut nearby.
Ghiocelul, 520		Avrig(DN1)	cabanaghiocelul@go.ro	0744 391 877	Fancy, expensive.
Poiana Neamţului, 706		Avrig		0269 523 261/0788 592 600	Good conditions with clean rooms, hot water, a bit overpriced.
Bârcaciu, 1550	Ciortea (2427m), Scara (2306m)	Avrig	barcaciu@yahoo.com	0740 059 805	Great hut, very hospitable hosts, delicious food, many perspico games and chess in case you get bored on a rainy day.
Negoiu, 1546	Şerbota (2331m), Negoiu (2535m)	Porumbacu de Jos(DN1)	cabananegoiu@gmail.com	0744 573 875	Nice hut, hospitable hosts, good food, some people have had problems with the dogs near the hut.
Vama Cucului, 600		Cârţişoara(Sibiu, Transfăgăraşan DN7C)		0744 476 698	Fancy, expensive.
Bâlea Cascada, 1234	Bâlea waterfall	Cârţişoara(Sibiu, Transfăgăraşan DN7C)	baleacascada@yahoo.com	0269 211 703	Fancy, expensive.
Bâlea Lac, 2034	Vânătoarea lui Buteanu (2507m), Iezerului (2417m), Lake Bâlea	Cârţişoara(Sibiu, Transfăgăraşan DN7C)	cabana_balealac@yahoo.com	0269 523 517/0745 072 602	A bit too expensive. Looks really good with good conditions but not a hut for mountaineers in my opinion, rather for fancy people.
Paltinu, 2034	Paltinului (2399m), Laiţa (2397m), Lake Bâlea	Cârţişoara(Sibiu, Transfăgăraşan DN7C)	cabanapaltinu@yahoo.com	269 211 703/0744 638 823	Not a good choice. You can choose to sleep on the other side of the tunnel in the rescue team refuge Cârţişoara (just 25 Ron.)
Arpaş, 600		Arpaşu de Sus or Victoria Town			Not functional anymore.
Turnuri, 1520		Arpaşu de Sus or Victoria Town	m.alina88@yahoo.com	0740 247 362	A nice hut, very welcoming.
Podragu, 2136	Podragu (2462m), Tărâţa (2404m), Lake Podragu (2110m)	Victoria Town	corina.iosif@gmail.com	+40 745 319 766	Many bad comments about the prices and hosts...
Complexul turistic Sâmbăta, 670		Sâmbăta de Jos	complexsambata@gmail.com	0744 332 805	Many expensive villas, fancy.
Hotel Floarea Reginei , 800		Sâmbăta de Jos		+40 724 320 651	Fancy, expensive but I always stop there to eat trout.
Valea Sâmbetei, 1401	Gălăşescu Mic(2438m), Slănina(2260m), Colţul Bălăceni(2286m)	Sâmbăta de Jos	www.simbata.ro, cabana.sambata@yahoo.com	0731 340 914	Dirty, crowded by many young guys that get very drunk (most on the weekend), too noisy, better use your tent.
Piscul Alb, 655		Făgăraş or Sebeş	piscul_alb@yahoo.com	0722 308 461	Nice, hot water, warm, a bit expensive.
Plaiul Foii, 849		Zărneşti (DN73A)	rezervari@cabanaplaiulfoii.ro	0726-380323	Fancy, expensive.
Cumpăna, 920		Curtea de Argeş - Căpăţîneni (DN7C)	cabanacumpana@yahoo.com	0248 721 456	Fancy, expensive.
Valea cu Peşti, 850		Curtea de Argeş - Căpăţîneni (DN7C)	selectra.rezervari@gmail.com	0747 11 99 01	Fancy, expensive. Boat trips on Lake Vidraru.
Capra, 1520	Muşeteica (2448m), Capra waterfall	Curtea de Argeş - Căpăţîneni (DN7C)	office@posada.ro	0040 248 721 451	Fancy, expensive.
Piscul Negru, 1300	Lespezi (2517m)	Curtea de Argeş - Căpăţîneni (DN7C)	hotel.piscu.negru@gmail.com	0248 721109	Fancy, expensive.
Voina chalet, 1020		Câmpulung (DN73)	office@muscelul.ro	0722 595 328	Expensive and very crowded by people that come in the car just to eat and have non-mountain fun.

Friends from Negoiu Hut

Maps & Books

Interactive map
(click on it and you will find the descriptions of the marked routes)

An older but pretty large scale map to be studied online

A paper map can be purchased online here

The Mountains of Romania - guidebook by James Roberts.

Góry Fogaraskie - guidebook by P. Klimek.

Arpaşu Mic and Buda peaks

Weather & Rescue Service

Weather today and forecast in Făgăraş city

Forecast | Maps | Radar

Weather today and forecast in Bâlea Lac

Bilea Lac and Romania

Webcam at Bâlea Lac

Avalanche report updated every two days in the winter season

Scara peak in winter sunshine

The national Salvamont dispatcher is: 0-SALVAMONT (0725-826668).

Area covered	Rescue team	Name	Phone number
Lake Urlea - Peak Podragu	Victoria	Thomas Bross	0268 241940, 0726 686 692
North, between Olt river at west and Tărâţa side ridge at east	Sibiu	David Adrian	0269 216477, 0745 140 144
South	Nucşoara	Retevoi Valentin (Chief of rescue team Nucşoara)	0744754445, 0724 212 591
South	Curtea de Argeş	Pleşiţa Nicolae (Chief of rescue team Curtea de Argeş)	0745 826 430, 0726686788
South	Câmpulung (Argeş)	Stoica Cosmin (doctor)	0740 673 011
South	Câmpulung Muscel (Argeş)	Holoboşan Alexandru (Chief of rescue team Câmpulung Muscel)	0744 270 266, 0726 686 678
South	Piteşti	Sănduloiu Ion (Director of rescue team Argeş)	0745 047 069, 0726 686 675
East till Berevoi peak	Zarneşti	Pivodă Ioan	0726 686 689