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Gross Schijen
Mountain/Rock

Gross Schijen

 
Gross Schijen

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Uri, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.67111°N / 8.65791°E

Object Title: Gross Schijen

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer

Elevation: 9133 ft / 2784 m

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: May 15, 2004 / Nov 4, 2009

Object ID: 152622

Hits: 6649 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview

In central Swiss alps, along the main ridge there are some mountains we could define as one-day shot because they are well known to climbers for :
- the possibility they offer of a very fine medium difficulty climb in one day from home
- the classic routes that are all in one with the mountain itself

Gross Schijen is one of them, it grows on the northern side of the road of Oberalp Pass, easy and fast to approach, with a fantastic rock and without coming down problems

Getting There

Both if you come from Luzern (or Zurich) or from Milano you must reach Göschenen (near the northern exit-entrance of Gotthard tunnel).
Next step is, along the Furka or Gotthard pass route, getting Andermatt where from, on east side, starts the Oberalp Pass road.
Just near the pass, on the western limit of the lake, park your car and in less than 1 hour walk you get the rock wall.


Routes overview

On its wonderful rock (looks like Mount Blanc granite) many possibilities of sport climbing but there is only one classic and frequented route :
South edge difficult (D sup, almost continuous IV+ and some short passages little harder), about 300 m drop, long enough to amuse, very technical climb
Gross Schijen - S edge
 
Gross Schijen - S edge
 
Gross Schijen - S edge
 
Gross Schijen - S edge
 
Gross Schijen - S edge
 
Gross Schijen - S edge
 

coming down is easy, along the west ridge to a small saddle then along a snow small channel.

When To Climb

starting from may and up to october, the wall is very steep so snow goes away early.
Snow on the approach slopes and in the coming down channel can help, a good idea could be to get approach with skis

other "one day shots" in this area

as I think a little difficult to group some summits that do not belong to a single Alp chain or group, I like to put here some links to some amusing mountains you can climb in one day (as I did without stress coming from near Milano) :



Bergsee Schijen - starting point Göschenen (north of Gotthard)
Piz Prevat - starting point Rodi (south of Gotthard)
Gross Furkahorn - starting point Furkapass
Poncione di Cascina Baggio - starting point Airolo
Chli Bielenhorn - starting point Furkapass


Accomodations

If you leave far from here and want to make a fine rock campaign in this area there are some Club Alpin Suisse Huts that can host you.

Göschenen Tal
- Bergsee Hutte - 2374 m - tel 4465435 - 40 beds - open in summer
from Göschenen Alp dike in little more than 1 hour
Furka Pass
- Albert Heim Hutte - 2541 m - 100 beds - tel 4467745 - open in summer and spring weekends
from Tiefenbach (on the road from Andermatt to Furkapass) till a car parking (white route) then in less than 1 hour
- Furka Zentrum - at Furka pass - a lot of space - very cheap !
Val Bedretto
- Capanna Piansecco - 1980 m - open in weekends
from All'Acqua (on the road from Airolo to Nufenen Pass) in less than 1 hour
Oberalpass area
no Huts, only an Hotel near the pass or in Andermatt or Disentis

Images

Gross SchijenGross Schijen - S edgeGross Schijen - S edgeGross Schijen - S edgeGross Schijen - S edgeGross Schijen south-west sideGross Schijen - S edge
Gross Schijen - S edge