OverviewIn central Swiss alps, along the main ridge there are some mountains we could define as one-day shot because they are well known to climbers for :
- the possibility they offer of a very fine medium difficulty climb in one day from home
- the classic routes that are all in one with the mountain itself
Gross Schijen is one of them, it grows on the northern side of the road of Oberalp Pass, easy and fast to approach, with a fantastic rock and without coming down problems
Getting ThereBoth if you come from Luzern (or Zurich) or from Milano you must reach Göschenen (near the northern exit-entrance of Gotthard tunnel).
Next step is, along the Furka or Gotthard pass route, getting Andermatt where from, on east side, starts the Oberalp Pass road.
Just near the pass, on the western limit of the lake, park your car and in less than 1 hour walk you get the rock wall.
Routes overviewOn its wonderful rock (looks like Mount Blanc granite) many possibilities of sport climbing but there is only one classic and frequented route :
South edge difficult (D sup, almost continuous IV+ and some short passages little harder), about 300 m drop, long enough to amuse, very technical climb
coming down is easy, along the west ridge to a small saddle then along a snow small channel.
When To Climbstarting from may and up to october, the wall is very steep so snow goes away early.
Snow on the approach slopes and in the coming down channel can help, a good idea could be to get approach with skis
other "one day shots" in this areaas I think a little difficult to group some summits that do not belong to a single Alp chain or group, I like to put here some links to some amusing mountains you can climb in one day (as I did without stress coming from near Milano) :
Bergsee Schijen - starting point Göschenen (north of Gotthard)
Piz Prevat - starting point Rodi (south of Gotthard)
Gross Furkahorn - starting point Furkapass
Poncione di Cascina Baggio - starting point Airolo
Chli Bielenhorn - starting point Furkapass
AccomodationsIf you leave far from here and want to make a fine rock campaign in this area there are some Club Alpin Suisse Huts that can host you.
- Bergsee Hutte - 2374 m - tel 4465435 - 40 beds - open in summer
from Göschenen Alp dike in little more than 1 hour
- Albert Heim Hutte - 2541 m - 100 beds - tel 4467745 - open in summer and spring weekends
from Tiefenbach (on the road from Andermatt to Furkapass) till a car parking (white route) then in less than 1 hour
- Furka Zentrum - at Furka pass - a lot of space - very cheap !
- Capanna Piansecco - 1980 m - open in weekends
from All'Acqua (on the road from Airolo to Nufenen Pass) in less than 1 hour
no Huts, only an Hotel near the pass or in Andermatt or Disentis