Lofoten Islands
Overview
Pillaren
Pillaren NW Spur with Slabs Area on the left
Pillaren and Djupfjord from coastal road - Photo Silvia Mazzani
Pillaren (The Pillar) is a great spur rising above the hidden lake named Djupfjordvatnet – not visible from Route 816 to Henningsvær - and situated along the eastern side of Djupfjord, close to Budalstinden. The cliff, facing NW and getting the sun late in the afternoon, constitutes Vågakallen North West buttress, ending in Point 713. Pillaren’s beautiful granite slabs, nicely overlooking the lake and close to Henningsvær, are one of most popular climbing destinations on Lofoten. The cliff has several routes, but the classic one and most frequently climbed is Bare Blåbær.
Getting There
Djupfjord
Djupfjorden Isthmus
GETTING TO LOFOTEN
There are various possibilities:
- By ferry boat from Bodø to Moskenes, Værøy or Røst (South of Lofoten)
- By ferry boat from Skutvik to Svolvær or Skrova (North of Lofoten)
- By plane from Bodø
- By car from Narvik via Evenes to Svolvær
ROAD APPROACH
It's possible to approach the cliff directly from Svolvær, Lofoten major center, in about 20 km along E10 and also from Kabelvag, in about
15 km. along E10, turning to left to Henningsvær (Route 816) at E10 and Route 816 forking. Otherwise the shortest way to approach the cliff is from Henningsvær (less then 5 km.), or from Lyngvæar (less then 5 km), a good place along E10, about 20 km. West to Svolvær. The coastal road to Henningsvær crosses Djupfjord narrow isthmus in the beginning (parking before the causeway).
WALKING APPROACH
All the routes on Pillaren are approached following a good path, starting from the road close to the isthmus and running along Djupfjord north-western shore (at your left-hand side when you’re looking inside at the fjord). The track gains the terminal moraine, which divides the fjord from the hidden inner lake. When you’re getting to the path’s first junction close to the moraine, don’t follow some cairns heading to right – it’s the path to Vagakallen-Kvandalstinden Col and Pillaren longest routes area - but follow the track on your left-hand side. After a pine wood and a bit before reaching the lake the obvious slabs are approached following a good track leaving the main path and rising towards right along steep vegetated slopes (1 hour from the coastal road). Some enourmous cairns mark the climbing area.
Camping
In Norway camping is allowed in every place, if not expressly forbidden. Best free camping place in this area is located in Festing, in front of Gandalf cliff, just close to Henningsvaer, while the nearest equipped camping is “Lyngvaer Bobilcamping” (campers and tents), 20 km. west from Svolvaer and a few kilometers from Djupfjorden climbing area.Routes overview
A crowdy day on the slabs
Climbing Bare Blåbær third pitch's crack
A granite mirror...
Meeeting parties while abseiling Bare Blåbær in a sunny day - Photo Silvia Mazzani
A good climbing' day.... Photo Silvia Mazzani
Belay on the slabs
Pillaren Routes (Norwegian Scale)
***Bare Blåbær Slabs Area:
- Coley Smoke 5 120 mt.
- Child’s Play 5+ 125 mt.
- Very Expensive Ticket 7 220 mt.
- Whale Meet Again 7- 40 mt.
- Bare Blåbær (Only Bilberries) 5- 240 mt.
- Thiras Mirith 6 240 mt.
With its magnificent granite mirror, the great classic of Bare Blåbær is maybe the most popular climbing route of this grade on Lofoten Islands, notwithstanding the cliff is not just close to the road. The route is facing NW: at the height of summer the route gets the sun around in the middle of the afternoon until late in the evening and after rainy days it dries very quickly. Bare Blåbær – literally “Only Bilberries” – is a Norwegian expression to mean an easy play.
***Pillaren Point 713 long routes:
- Celebrian 6- 400 mt.
- Hostgull 7- 400 mt.
- Elgfesten 6 400 mt.
When to climb
Best months for climbing are late May, June, July and August.Climate
On Lofoten the weather can change suddenly from clear and blu sky with sunshine or the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) to violent storms with rain or snow. Maximum temperatures go from +30°C in June and July to -15°C in January and February; the average temperatures for these months are from +12°C to -3°C. The period with the minimum rainfall goes from April to June, while we may expect the maximum rainfall or snowfall between October and December.Midnight sun: from 27 May to 17 July
Polar night: from 6 December to 6 January
The Northern Lights can be seen over Lofoten from September to April.
Meteo
METEO LOFOTENGuideBooks
"Lofoten Rock" by Chris Craggs and Thorbjorn Enevoid
