Coglians (Hohe Warte) is the Carnic Alps highest mountain. It was been a theatre of many battles during the First World War, so is possible to looking for many things about that period. From the peak during the clear sky days it's possible to admire a wonderful view, with the Raut, the Duranno, Monfalconi and the Cridola, until Dolomites (Sorapiss, Antelao, Pelmo e Civetta). More diistant also Pale di San Martino, Cima d'Asta, Marmolada, Tofane, Cristallo, Popera and Punta Tre Scarperi. With a good visibility you can admire also Palla Bianca Ankogel and Tauri di Radstadt and Alpi Giulie like Mangart, Triglav, Jof Fuart, Montasio e Canin, Sernio, Grauzaria and Tersadia.

Its range is belong from Volaia pass, (Cima Lastrons) to Passo dei Cacciatori (Kellerscharte), near Creta da Cjanevate. The north face is over Valentin Törl, where there is the austrian route, (rocks passage - II level).
From south side (Vallone del Ploto) is easier and not so ripid.

First Ascient: 30 september 1865, Paul Grohmann, through the actual Italian Normal Route.

Getting There

TO FORNI AVOLTRI:

From Tarvisio Pass, highway to Udine (I) exit Carnia, follow the signals to Tolmezzo and then to Forni Avoltri. Sitated in the northern part of Carnia, at the borders with Cadore and Austria, Forni Avoltri is an ideal base of deparature to visit territories of extraordinary beauty, in exceptional state of conversation, rich with millions of species of flora, populated with numerous fauna, put in the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia under the protection of the Park of Carnia Central. The interior of that splendid territory arise the highest mountains in the region, between which Coglians (2782 mts.).

THEN, TO REFUGE TOLAZZI

Address: Plan Val di Bos - 33020 Collina, Forni Avoltri UD
Opening: 1 june - 30 september
Map: Tabacco 1:25000 n° 09, Pianeta Rifugio, n° 3
Loc. Collina 33020 Forni Avoltri UD
Owner: Del Missier Noemi e Dario
Via Vidrina di Chialina 13/6, Ovaro (UD)
tel. 0433.677738 or 340.4735281.

Routes Overview*

As I have done elsewhere I will only include the abstractsof the climbs here. Complete descriptions can be found in the GermanAlpine Club Guidebook (German): P.Holl: Karnischer Hauptkamm, RotherVerlag, ISBN: 3-7633-1254-4.

Southwest Face
Rated: IV
First Climbed: 1941 (Aurelio, Terribile, Pinamonti)
Length: 600m
West Face
Rated: II
First Climbed: 1933 (Caneva, Candido)
Length: 600m
South-West Face of the North Ridge
Rated: III
First Climbed: 1921 (Haberl, Nießner, Sickenberg)
Length: 600m
North-West Ridge (from Seewarte)
Rated: III
First Climbed: 1921 (Hinterberger, Mayer, Schneck)
Western (First) North Face Chimney
Rated: IV
First Climbed: 1930 (Peterka, Proksch)
Length: 250m
Central (Second) North Face Chimney
First Climbed: ? (Samassa)
Length: 250m
Third North Face Chimney
Rated: III+
First Climbed: 1976 (Unterluggauer et al.)
Length: 250m
Eastern (Fourth) North Face Chimney
Rated: III+
First Climbed: 1897 (Samassa, Urbanis)
Length: 200m
Felfernigg - Cermenjak Route
Rated: III+
North Face / Koban - Prunner Ferrata
Rated: II
Length: 500m
North Face / Kofler Route
Rated: III
First Climbed: 1895 (Kofler)
Length: 650m
North Face /Damberger Route
Rated: II
First Climbed: 1922 (Damberger, Steiger)
Length: 200m
Direct North-EasternPillar
Rated: IV+
First Climbed: 1933 (Rittsteuer, Pichler)
Length: 250m
North-East Pillar /Peterka Route
Rated: III+
First Climbed: 1932 (Peterka, Zimmermann)
Length: 250m
North-East Pillar / Castiglioni Route
Rated: IV
First Climbed: 1937 (Castiglioni, Bozzoli, Barzaghi)
Length: 250m
North-East Face
Rated: IV+
First Climbed: 1933 (Peterka, Souscheck, Fraisl, Köckenbauer,Fischer)
Length: 700m
North-East Face of the Eastern Summit
Rated: III+
First Climbed: 1927 (Kaser, Gebauer)
Length: 700m

** for this section thanks a lot to Gangolf for his help!

Camping and Refuges

There is a camping in Forni di Sopra (UD - Italy). Telephone number: 0433 88 035.

Ref. Tolazzi (1350 meters): +39-0433-72289
Ref. Marinelli (2111 meters): +39-0433-779177

When to Climb and Mountain Conditions

The best period to climb this mountain is during the months of June, July, August and September. Looking for reach the peak during an other period is dangerous for the ice that remain among the rocks and requires a good experience. In august the peak generally is very busy.

Check the mountain conditions on one of these web sites: Cividale online and Meteo Friuli

Books and Maps*

Maps

Lienzer Dolomiten / Lesachtal
1:50000
Kompass Map WK47
Kompass Verlag
ISBN: 3-85491-053-3
Gailtaler Alpen / Karnische Alpen / Oberdrautal
1:50000
Kompass Map WK60
Kompass Verlag
ISBN: 3-85491-067-3
Tabacco Maps, all 1:25000
001 - SAPPADA-S.STEFANO-FORNI AVOLTRI
009 - ALPI CARNICHE / CARNIA CENTRALE

Books

German Books

Hiking and Trecking
- Osttirol Süd
  W. Mair
  Rother Verlag
  ISBN: 3-7633-4132-3
  Good descriptions with maps covering: Defregger Berge, Villgrater Berge,
  Carnic Alps, Lienz Dolomites
- Kärnten
  G. Lehofer
  Rother Verlag
  ISBN: 3-7633-4187-0
  Good descriptions with maps covering: Carnic Alps, Gailtal Alps,
  Karawanke, Julian Alps (parts)
- Gailtal – Lesachtal – Karnischer Höhenweg
  Kompass Wanderbuch 982
  Kompass Verlag
  ISBN: 3-85491-500-4
  Good Descriptions with maps and elevation profiles covering: Carnic
  Alps, Southern Lienz Dolomites, Gailtal Alps
Climbing
- Karnischer Hauptkamm
  Alpenvereinsführer
  P. Holl
  Rother Verlag
  ISBN: 3-7633-1254-4
  Excellent overall Climbing Guide through the Carnic Alps Main Ridge.

Italian Books

ALPI CARNICHE E DOLOMITI FRIULANE
ISBN: 88-86928-37-8
Euro 16,53
to buy it
ALPI CARNICHE, vol. I - II
A. De Rovere, M. Di Gallo;
Guida dei monti d'Italia CAI-TCI; 1988

* for this section thanks to Gangolf and Gabriele!

External Links

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