Overview
One of the most beautifull mountains in Bernina massif.
The mountain has 3 summits on a ridge covered by a lot of ice: E summit (3882m), central summit (3905m), W summit (3823m). The W part of the summit ridge is on the Swiss_Italian border.
Piz Palü has a famous N Face with 3 rocky spurs separate by ice couloirs.
Piz Palü summits
Piz Palü north side
Piz Palü east side
Piz Palü south side
Sunrise on Piz Palü
Getting There
St. Moritz, Pontresina, Cable car up to Diavolezza
Author: Fred
Date: Feb 27, 2004 09:33 AM
The site Bergbahnenengadin has approach information - click on map for an excellent drawing showing the peaks etc.
When To Climb
Summer (june to september)
Main routes overview
Route name: Piz Palü traverse
Difficulty: AD
Time required: Diavolezza hut to basis then to summits and return = 6h-8h (from Boval add 1h)
Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m) or Boval hut (2495m)
Top point: Central Piz Palü (3905m)
Difference in height: hut to main summit:
Route name: Piz Palü W (N spur)
Difficulty: D (ice conditions dependent)
Time required: basis to summit = 4h-6h
Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m)
Top point: Piz Palü W (3823m)
Difference in height: basis to summit: 700m
Route name: Piz Palü W (NE face)
Difficulty: TD (ice 60° to 70°)
Time required: basis to summit = 4h-6h
Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m)
Top point: Piz Palü W (3823m)
Difference in height: basis to summit: 500m
Route name: Piz Palü W (NW face)
Difficulty: D+ (ice)
Time required: hut to basis: 1:30h + basis to summit = 4h-5h
Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m)
Top point: Piz Palü W (3823m)
Difference in height: basis to summit: 600m
Route name: Piz Palü Central (N couloir)
Difficulty: D and seracs (and very exposed to multiple risks)
Time required: hut to basis: 1:30h-2h + basis to summit = 5h-6h
Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m)
Top point: Piz Palü Central (3905m)
Difference in height: basis to summit: 700m
Route name: Piz Palü Central (N spur)
Difficulty: D+
Time required: basis to summit = 5h-7h
Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m)
Top point: Piz Palü Central (3905m)
Difference in height: basis to summit: 850m
Route name: Piz Palü E (N spur)
Difficulty: D
Time required: 2h to basis and for basis to summit: 3h-5h
Start point: Diavolezza hut (2973m)
Top point: Piz Palü E (3882m)
Difference in height: basis to summit: 500m
First ascents
1866 M.E. Digby, P. Jenny and X: west ridge
1868 july 22: A. Wachtler, Walner, Georg, Hans Grass, Christian Grass: WE traverse
1887 Septembre 1: H.Bumiller, M.Schocher, Johann Grass, Christian Zippert: Central spur
1899 July 31: J.T. Burton Alexander, Christian Zippert, Florian Grass: W spur
1899 August 22 M. von Küffner, M. Schocher, A. Burgener: E spur
1931 May 5: O. Feutl, W. Dobiasch: Central Couloir
1939 August 2: P. Corti, Isacco Dell'Avo: NW face
Pers Glacier
Born under Piz Palü north face this Glacier is the main affluent of Morteratsch Glacier.
Bernina express
A small wink to Bernina Express on Piz Palü page.
This mountain train can be use to go to Morteratsch valley or to join Diavolezza cable car.
Camping and hut
Berghaus Diavolezza 2976 m
Familie Lühr
CH-7504 Pontresina
Tel: +41 81 842 62 05 / Fax +41 81 842 61 58
(200 beds)
External LinksImages
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Alps - Eastern Part > Bernina Group > Piz Palü
