The Tofane group is one of the most distinguishing in Dolomites. It has three main peaks which are of quite similar altitude: Tofana di Mezzo, 3244 m, Tofana di Dentro, 3238 m and Tofana di Rozes, 3225 m. The whole massif lies west of Cortina d'Ampezzo, so according to classification we use here on SP it belongs to Cortina Dolomites. On the south the border of Tofane group is the valley which runs from Cortina d'Ampezzo to the Falzarego Pass (2105 m). On the east the massif ends deep down in the Ampezzo valley. And on the western side the massif is divided from the Lavarella group by the valley of Travenanzes.

Geologically the massif of Tofane is made of "dolomia principale", a typical dolomites rock.

The Tofane massif offers a variety of outdoor activities. On the eastern part, above the Cortina d'Ampezzo there is a well known ski resort, where every year also the World Cup races are held. And on the very peak of Tofana di Mezzo a cable car goes. Otherwise in the whole massif there are many hiking and climbing routes and in the vertical walls of the massif the hardest climbing routes can be made. Especially the south face of Tofana di Rozes is monumental, offering the hardest climbing routes.

All three main peaks can be ascended by marked routes, but they are far from being easy. But now let's concentrate on Tofana di Rozes only.

Driving from Cortina to the Falzarego pass you will soon notice a remarkable, 1000 meters high vertical south wall of Tofana di Rozes, consisting of eight distinct pillars. The mountain is like a giant three-edge pyramid, so its west face is very similar - only that it is not so extremely steep. The north-east face is the least steep, but it still holds snow rests long into summer. It fails only a little and there would be a permanent glacier - and may be there it was in the past. Now over the scree of north slopes the normal ascent goes.

Although not being easy, due to its marked routes, Tofana di Rozes is often ascended. For an experienced hiker it represents one of the most rewarding peaks of Dolomites.

Andrej Mašera: As a beginning of the mountaineering history of Tofane group, we can consider August 29th, 1863, when Paul Grohmann reached the summit of Tofana di Mezzo in the company of hunter Francesco Lacedelli from Cortina. Next year he ascended with the same guide also Tofana di Dentro, and in 1865 with Giuseppe Dimai Tofana di Rozes. It is interesting, that the huge south wall of Tofana di Rozes relatively early attracted the attention of climbers. In 1901 guides Antonio Dimai, Giovanni Siorpaes and Agostino Verzi guided over the wall two well known climbers - the Hungarian sisters Ilona and Rolanda Eötvös. A very interesting classic of the upper UIAA degree IV, still today often visited.

World War I on Tofane

In the World war I the front line crossed the Tofane group. That is why in these mountains you can see so many relics of this war - caves and tunnels, and in the surrounding valleys monuments to thousands of soldiers who lost their lives in this beautiful mountain region.

Andrej Mašera: But one of the most remarkable events happenad on the SW corner of Tofana di Rozes. There is an outposted tower, called Castelletto, where Austrian soldiers had well fortified positions, excellently controlling the entry into Val Travenanzes. Italians decided to blow the fortifications up by mining the whole tower. In almost 6 months they dug a 507m long tunnel and placed into its end 35 tons of dynamite. Austrians of course knew what was going on, and were digging their own tunnel in the opposite direction. But too late. On July 11th, 1916, at 3:30 a.m. a terrible explosion blew away the whole summit of Castelletto. Rocks were falling miles around and from the nearby area of Cinque Torri the Italian king himself observed the scene. But the event had no big impact on the course of mountain war. In 1956 through the Italian tunnel the initial part of Ferrata Lipella was made.

Portraits of Tofana di Rozes

from the NW	from the N	from the NE
from the W	TOFANA DI ROZES	from the E
from the SW	from the S	from the SE

Summit Views

Getting There

From Cortina d'Ampezzo drive towards west (towards the Falzarego pass) by the main Dolomites panorama road. Just after Pocol (1530 m) you can turn right and reach the Dibona hut (2083 m) by a narrow road. This hut is the best starting point for the two marked Tofana di Rozes ascents - and so also for a round tour.

You can reach the trailhead also directly from the Falzarego pass road. From the Magistrato alle Aque hut (1985 m) just take a marked path No. 412 towards noth-east.

The approach through Val Travenanzes is also marked but long and appropriate only for a two-day hike.

Two marked paths climb to the top:

1. The north approach (normal). In normal (summer) conditions not hard, actually a hike-up, which requires a secure step on some places.

2. Ferratta Lipella over the west face. One of the most popular, but long and strenuous ferratas in Dolomites, which actually encircles more than half of the mountain.

For those who do not strive only for high peaks also a round tour can be made, which encircles the whole Tofana di Rozes by a marked path.

And for you, who seek hard alpine climbs here is a link to a web page with 6 routes (in English).

The normal (north slope) ascent can in good conditions also be done as a hard ski tour. Best time: spring.

Maps:
1. Tabacco 1:25000, No. 3 - Cortina d'Ampezzo

South Wall Routes

Towards the wall...

Especially south wall of Tofana di Rozes is interesting for climbers. Our member Gabriele Roth contributed the following list of routes:

> SW wall - Phillimore-Dimai - 700m - PD
> NW wall - von Glanwell - 1000m - PD sup

South wall - from west to east ...

> SW spur - via della Tridentina - Bonatti - 850m - TD
> SW spur - via Mirka - Steinkotter - 850m - D
classic route - > Dimai-Eotvos - 800m - D
Michael - mvs: 'For an adventureous, but not "extreme" climber, the Dimai/Eötvös Route will provide the most rewarding tour of the face.'

> direttissima - Stosser - 850m - ED
> SSW edge - Dibona-Apollonio - 850m - D
> Tissi-Andrich - 800m - ED
> via della Julia - Apollonio-Costantini-Alverà-Ghedina - 850m - TD

Big pillars (eastern side of the South wall)

Third pillar

> Alverà-Pompanin - 600m - D sup
Gabriele: 'The Pompanin-Alverà route on the third pillar of Tofana di Rozes is, for my feeling, the most amusing route of the whole wall, maybe also the most "old fashion" (no crowd and almost deserted).'

Pilastro di Rozes - South wall

> Costantini-Apollonio - 550m - ED - the best route

Pilastro di Rozes - SW edge

> Costantini-Ghedina - 550m - ED inf

Pilastro di Rozes - S wall

> Paolo VI - "scoiattoli" - 500m - ED sup

First pillar - SW edge

> Pompanin-Alverà - 500m - TD

First pillar - South wall

> Sioli-Ferrari - 500m - ED inf

Red Tape

The whole massif (except the ski resort) is part of the Dolomites natural park.

When To Climb

Summer and autumn months are the most appropriate. In early summer you should count on many snow rests on the northern side of the mountain, so take with you the appropriate equipment.

Camping

In the Dolomites natural park camping is not allowed.

There are many mountain huts which can be used as a starting point for the ascent:

1. Rif. A. Dibona, 2083 m. Tel.: 00 39/04 36/86 02 94.
2. Rif. Pomedes, 2303 m and Rif. Duca d'Aosta, 2098 m (both more remote on the eastern part).
3. Rif. Giussani, 2580 m (on the Forcella Fontananegra (notch)). Tel.: 04 36/57 40, open from June 20th to September 20th.
4. And many huts and hotels on the road Cortina - Passo Falzarego.

More tourist information you can find on the page of Cortina d'Ampezzo.

Images



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