OverviewLizard Head ... is the most difficult of Colorado summits to reach. In fact the rottenness of its 400' tower makes safety too much a matter of luck for comfort. Returning visitors have formed the opinion that the peak has become noticeably rottener and more dangerous. Our advice ... when you reach the base, take [a] picture and go home. ...Robert Ormes in the Guide to the Colorado Mountains, Seventh Edition, 1979
Impressive Lizard Head is flanked by the Wilson massif: L to R-Mount Wilson, Gladstone & Wilson Peak Photo by Nader Messontag from Blackface Mountain And so it is said by one of Colorado’s foremost climbing pioneers. Lizard Head is widely regarded as Colorado’s most difficult and dangerous mountain to climb. Unlike Longs Peak’s lengthy climbing record full of tragedy and triumph, Lizard Head’s colorful history is brief because of the immediate and inherent danger. This danger has kept attempts on Lizard Head at the minimum.
Lizard Head is part of the San Miguel range, a subrange of the sprawling San Juan mountains in southwest Colorado. 3 neighboring fourteeners rise to the west in the Lizard Head Wilderness: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak and El Diente, considered to be three of Colorado’s toughest fourteeners. These difficult mountains are clustered together and share similar reputations because of their origin.
The San Miguels, like most of the San Juan, were born in fire. 65 million years ago, the searing hot volcanic uplift that would become the San Juans cooled rapidly and was subjected to glacial activity. These temperature extremes resulted in highly fractured and brittle rock. Beautiful to look at, lousy for climbing.
Lizard Head’s inspiring summit tower is the epitome of rotten San Juan rock. That the pinnacle stands at all amazes many climbers, who report that the mountain readily crumbles and sends down a shower of stone on the first pitch. Add to that lousy holds, or no holds at all, and scant protection options and you’ve got the ultimate challenge Lizard Head is known for.
The higher pitches are on better rock, but the summit area is rickety at best and great caution must always be exercised there. The view is said to be one of the best in the state, making the challenge and danger worth the effort.
Most climbers will heed the recommendation seen consistently on the internet: Ascent not recommended. They will take their picture as Bob Ormes suggests and move on. But Lizard Head is climbed by exceptional climbers several times a year, and a number of those climbers are here at SP.
Check the LINK SECTION for an expedient perusal of all links included on this page. Links are perhaps more important for Lizard Head than any other Colorado mountain.
Getting ThereCROSS MOUNTAIN TRAILHEAD 3.6 miles, 2695 feet (to base of tower)
From Telluride, drive south on Highway 145 over Lizard Head pass. A trailhead is here for one optional approach via Black Mountain. For a direct approach, continue south from the pass for two miles. Turn right on a dirt road signed for the Cross Mountain trailhead. Make an immediate left, cross a creek, and continue to the parking area.
A well defined trail leads to a junction. Turn right at a sign that says “Groundhog Stock Trail.” Continue up the trail for 3.6 miles to a pass between Cross Mountain (west), and Lizard Head (east). Proceed up the tundra ridge which becomes scree as you climb. At the tower base, proceed to the right to find the south face routes. Be wary of falling rock during your time at the base of the tower.
Red TapeThe National Forest Service banned the use of fixed anchors in wilderness areas in 1998. This controversial ruling has been met with considerable opposition by the technical climbing community concerning established classic routes. Climbing experiences such as Lizard Head are threatened to be lost, so the debate continues. The maintainer of this page will continue to monitor the situation as closely as possible and report changes here.
Lizard Head resides in the wilderness area bearing its name southwest of Telluride, Colorado. Please practice Leave No Trace and wilderness protocols during your visit.
There are no fees to pay or permits to acquire to visit the area.
When To Climb
Weather-wise, Summer or Fall are the best times to attempt Lizard Head. Do not attempt to climb the mountain during a thunderstorm. Retreat from the tower is a challenge for experienced technical climbers in ideal conditions. A hasty retreat and rappel would only increase the hazards already present by the wet conditions and rotten rock.
The mountain has been climbed in the winter and may involve ice climbing equipment and techniques. If the mountain is frozen enough and your timing is right, loose rock may be less of a factor.
Another factor that determines when to climb this mountain is who you are climbing with. Obviously a trusted partner whose capabilities and knowledge you trust is paramount in executing a safe ascent and descent of this mountain.
Camping
A magnificent campsite features the pointed spire of Lizard Head in the distance, Wilson Peak on the right Photo by Aaron Johnson, Summer, 1978 There are some great camping areas near the mountain, particularly just south of Lizard Head Pass. These areas are not specifically marked. Look sharp for dirt roads on the east side of the highway starting at the pass and heading south. These roads meander among the trees and clearings and may require high clearance in places. Be sure to have plenty of your own water. Be prepared for bugs galore in the summer.
Limited camping, as well as pleasant fee camping is available along the Illium Road, which is accessed via exits along Highway 145 at the Ames Power station, across from the exit to Ophir Pass, and the Illium exit east of Telluride.
If backpacking into the wilderness, Bilk Basin is a grand and enchanting spot for an alpine base camp suitable for ascents of Lizard Head, Mount Wilson, Gladstone and Wilson Peaks.
Nearby Trout Lake is a privately owned area and camping is not allowed on the road that circumvents the lake.
Mountain ConditionsTelluride/Western San Juan Regional Weather
GOES Western Satellite Image
Lizard Head is in an alpine environment. Proceed under your informed judgment.
Uncompahgre National Forest Home Page
Conditions on the tower are known to change rapidly with the passage of sun and resulting freezing and thawing. On most mountains, adaptation to changing conditions is part of the experience. On Lizard Head, such differences could change your life...or end it.Notes on the Standard RouteLizard Head Summit Tower, Southwest Chimney, 3 pitches
Paraphrased by gracious permission from Andrew Gram, from material posted by Peter Gram, but no longer available at climbingboulder.com (now mountainproject.com). Thank you, Andrew!
On the south side of Lizard Head, a wide crack/chimney in a large corner is the start of the climb on crumbly rock. The first belay station is comprised of two pitons and rappel rings. A climb of a crack or chimney follows, eventually favoring the chimney. A fixed anchor is in a large notch 140 feet above the climb’s start. This first pitch (5.6) is very loose, but becomes solid and more difficult (5.8).
A brief climb to a scree field follows. The climb angles left up the scree to a belay below the summit headwall. Loose Class 3 is encountered along the way. The anchor situation is sparse and options are few.
A ledge system climbs to the right across the upper wall, and then back to the left. Accessing a ledge around an overhang and climbing to the right is easy and solid, but protection is nil. From a very exposed and small ledge, climb up to anchors (5.6).
On the summit, exposure is massive and the rock is very loose.
The recommended descent is to rappel the 3rd pitch, downclimb the 3rd class pitch to the notch, then rappel 140 feet to the ground using two ropes.
Specific route details are provided by Andrew Gram at rockclimbing.com.
Recent beta about the standard route was offered by SP member RobSC:
"On the standard route, which starts on the obvious corner on the south side of the peak, the first 50 feet are extremely loose. After this, if you continue up the corner and then chimney, the climbing is enjoyable and on reasonable rock. The second pitch is loose, but largely a scramble up scree, and the final pitch is again on reasonable rock for the crux portion. The northern three feet of the entire summit area looks as if it is about to slide off down the mountain."
Andrew Gram offers this perspective:
"The climbing is not nearly as loose or serious as the description implies. It is very reasonable for climbers who are solid on 5.9 with a little caution. It is a tough 5.8 though, and there are some runouts and loose rock in places."
Additional ResourcesThe following information was graciously supplied by SP member Alan Ellis:
The book, "Telluride Rocks", by Andrew Sawyer and Charlie Fowler has three route descriptions to the summit and one route description that does not reach the summit. The three summit routes are named, "Original Route, South Face Route, and South Crack Route. The book also describes the descent route and provides a rudamentary route topo probably only good for a general reference of the summit block. All three routes to the summit are rated, "5.7 - 5.8, Grade III". The South Crack route is the standard route and also called the Southwest Chimney route in other guidebooks.
The book, "Rock Climbing Colorado" (Falcon Guide), by Stewart Green, has an excellent approach, route, and descent description of the Southwest Chimney route but no topo. The rating is 5.7+, Grade II. This is probably the best route description of the three books.
The book, "Climbing Colorado's San Juan Mountains", (Falcon Guide), by Robert Rosebrough has a one paragraph route description called "The South Dihedral" which describes the standard or Southwest Chimney route. The rating is 5.7 - 5.8.
Climbing History & Recent AscentsFIRST ASCENT
August 26, 1920, by Albert Ellingwood & Barton Hoag
Undoubtedly THE hardest rock climb at that time in the US. 3 pitons, hemp rope and nailed boots was the compliment of equipment. Essentially, an amazing free solo climb of Colorado's hardest mountain. Read the incredible account written by Ellingwood here.
H.G. Wilm & Dobson West, 1929-retreived Ellingwood’s rope and pitons.
CMC & Appalachian Mountain Club in 1931.
First winter ascent: January 18, 1970
Notable Recent Ascent: 9-9-2001
George Bell, Jennifer Roach, John Prater (SP member). With this climb, Jennifer Roach completed all of Colorado's thirteen thousand foot peaks. This amazing account is well written by George Bell and can be read here.
SP's own mjp on the summit of Lizard Head can be seen here.
More photos at Rock Climbing.com.
Lizard Head Wilderness & GeologyThe Lizard Head Wilderness, designated in 1980, is comprised of 41,193 acres and features 37 miles of trails. Three of Colorado’s most difficult fourteeners are nearby, as well as other wonderful, solitary summits such as Sunshine, Dolores, Middle Peaks and Cross Mountain. One of Colorado’s most challenging and potentially dangerous high 13ers, Gladstone Peak, is northwest of Lizard Head. Black Face Mountain is reputed to be one of Colorado’s most stunning hikes in the fall.
Access roads include Highway 145, the Dunton Road, Silver Pick Basin and Illium Road.
Wilderness.net Overview
Backpacker.com Article
Geology
Lizard Head is thought to be the remnants of a volcanic neck, composed of andesitic breccia. Igneous intrusions are molten rock that stopped short of the surface and cooled into granite - denser and more resistant than the surrounding volcanic rocks. Lizard Head is an exception to this rule; this free-standing spire is a volcanic neck that crumbled into its present form.
A brief geologic overview is found here, but the picture is even better.
External Links Images
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San Juan Range
