OverviewMost of climbers know the Salbitschijen for its famous and fantastic rock climbings.
In the same valley, the Göschener Tal, there is another fine rock mountain that give climbers the possibility of one-day trip
if they come from Lombardia (Italy) or Luzern and even from Zurich.
This mountain is the Bergseeschijen, a fine granite (fantastic rock) steep wall just near the road
(in about 2 hours you can reach the rocks)
Its SSE wall and S ridge are about 320 m drop.
PS - climbing Bergseeschijen on saturday afternoon could give you the time to climb Schijenstock or Hochschijen on sunday :)
Getting ThereStarting point for the valley is Göschenen that can be easily and fast reached from Luzern, Zurich or Milan along the Gotthard highway.
From Göschenen, along the road till Gwüest (1605m) where you must start walking.
If you want to take it easy you can spend the night at Bersee Hut (2370 m)
Routes overviewNot much to say about routes on this sometimes crowded mountain:
the easiest way is the East ridge normally used for coming down when there is no more snow around
most frequented, and classic, is the South ridge, a not very difficult route (D inf - III-IV UIAA - 1 pass of V near the summit) -
300 m drop, fine and not hard climb.
if the ridge is too crowded you can climb also along the routes on the SSE wall
the finest starts about 30 m right of previous one and you can reach it by a ledge,
then a fine series of dihedrals till the south ridge, 3 pitches before the summit.
Difficulties up to D sup (IV-V UIAA)
I heard about very hard routes on the west wall but I have no infos about them (hope some here can make additions)
coming down is easy (1 rappel then a snow channel) or along the route with rope
When To Climbthe south wall gets early cleaned from snow in spring, but descending can force you to swim in the north channel (normal way down)
so the best season is from june to october
other "one day shots" in this areaas I think a little difficult to group some summits that do not belong to a single Alp chain or group, I like to put here some links to some amusing mountains you can climb in one day (as I did without stress coming from near Milano) :
Gross Schijen - starting point Oberalp Pass
Piz Prevat - starting point Rodi (south of Gotthard)
Gross Furkahorn - starting point Furkapass
Poncione di Cascina Baggio - starting point Airolo
Chli Bielenhorn - starting point Furkapass
AccomodationsIf you leave far from here and want to make a fine rock campaign in this area there are some Club Alpin Suisse Huts that can host you.
Göschenen Tal
- Bergsee Hutte - 2374 m - tel 4465435 - 40 beds - open in summer
from Göschenen Alp dike in less more than 1 hour
Furka Pass
- Albert Heim Hutte - 2541 m - 100 beds - tel 4467745 - open in summer and spring weekends
from Tiefenbach (on the road from Andermatt to Furkapass) till a car parking (white route) then in less than 1 hour
- Furka Zentrum - at Furka pass - a lot of space - very cheap !
Val Bedretto
- Capanna Piansecco - 1980 m - open in weekends
from All'Acqua (on the road from Airolo to Nufenen Pass) in less than 1 hour
Oberalpass area
no Huts, only an Hotel near the pass or in Andermatt or Disentis
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