Punta di U Chiapponu is a steep and slender peak built in the magnificent pure “Bavella” granite, lying in the Bavella group close to Tafunata di Paliri. At present the tower has only one route rising along the spectacular ridge facing West.
Getting ThereThe admittance to Bavella group wild and magnificent stone’s microcosm is the Bavella Pass mt. 1211.
ROAD ITINERARIES TO BAVELLA PASS:
- From Bastia (Corsica Eastern coast) take RN 198 towards Solenzara; a few kilometers before getting there, turn to right and follow D268 to Bavella Pass (km. 130 from Bastia).
- From Aiaccio (Corsica Western coast) follow the RN 196 to Petreto, then the road N852 to Aullene, Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio). From Zonza follow D268 to Bavella Pass.
From Bavella Pass go down along North East side of D268 (direction Solenzara); from “Auberge de Bavella”, a bit under the pass on Solenzara side, you must count exactly 1,8 km. along the road D268 to find a forestal unsurfaced road on your right-hand side, leading towards the peak. Parking along D268.
TD sup., 6b+ max.
Summit altitude: mt. 1111
Length: 250 mt.
Starting: Road D268 Col de Bavella
Hut: Auberge – Gite d’Etape du Col de Bavella
A steady and magnificent route with extra-solid red granite. Well equipped with 10 mm. bolts.
From the parking along NE side of D268 - at km. 1,8 past Auberge du Col de Bavella - take towards right an unsurfaced forestal road, walking along it for about 2,5 km. After a crossroads with GR20, the forestal road does a semicircle. Then GR 20 goes towards right. You must keep yourself on the forestal road, leading to a grassy glade, where Punta di U Chiapponu finally appears. At the right end of the glade a small track goes down, reaching a dried red stream - several cairns – and rising steeply to the bottom of the peak (1 hour and 30 minutes from the parking).
P1- A superb pitch. Starting up a red corner, then towards left climbing a little overhang with “tafoni”; a system of hard and shallow cracks leads towards right above the basal overhangs. A last little overhang leads to the little belay. 6b+, 50 mt.
P2- Another superb pitch. Climb a pinnacle, then up along a steep beautiful wall leading to a chimney with tafoni. Up along the chimney to the belay 6a+, 35 mt.
P3- From the belay climb a dihedral-crack, then towards left to take a magnificent and vertical red wall. 6a, 40 mt.
P4- Another dihedral-crack leading to a characteristic slab. Climb the slab to a belay below a red overhang with “tafoni”. 6a, 40 mt.
P5- Climb straightly the overhang, then a corner and a slab leading to a little red wall; climb the wall starting with a crack, then up along its ridge. 6a
P6- Walking along some easy slabs reach the last wall leading to the summit cairn. 4b
Descent. From the summit one abseil leads to the shoulder below the last wall. Head towards left – facing out – following a vegetated ledge to enter a gully. Descent along the gully by walk and some easy downclimbing to a wider gully. Climb the easy slabs inside the last gully reaching the starting point (1 hour from the summit).
Bavella range is a wild group situated inside a Regional Park. Free camping and bivouac are not allowed. Fires are strictly forbidden. Maximum care is required to preserve this extraordinary environment.
Where to stayCOL DE BAVELLA
-Auberge du Col de Bavella – Hotel and Gite d’Etape
AUBERGE DU COL DE BAVELLA
-Les Aiguilles de Bavella – Gite d’Etape
GITE D'ETAPE LES AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA
– Hotel L’Aiglon, Hotel de la Terrasse
- Municipal Camping of Zonza, Camping La Riviere
When to climbBest season to climb goes from late April to October.
Guidebooks and maps
“Bavedda – Aiguilles entre ciel et torrents: Escalade, Rando, Canyon” by Jean Louis Fenouil and Jean Paul Quilici - FFME
Map IGN 4253 ET “Aiguilles de Bavella – Solenzara”