Overview
U Peru NW Face Haddad-Omerta combination
Haddad low pitches: belay inside the huge tafone
U Peru
If seen from North-East side of Bavella Pass along D268, U Peru appears like a slender black and red spur with a beautiful huge
“tafone” in the central section of its North-West face. Situated in Ferriate’ chain, its name means “The Pear” in reason of its similarity with the fruit.
Getting There
Majestic entrance into Bavella group is Bavella Pass mt. 1211.ROAD ITINERARY TO BAVELLA PASS
- From Bastia (Corsica Eastern coast) take RN 198 towards Solenzara; a few kilometers before getting there, take D268 to Bavella Pass (km. 130 from Bastia).
- From Aiaccio (Corsica Western coast) follow the road RN 196 to Petreto, then the road N852 to Aullene, Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio).
APPROACH
From Bavella Pass go down along NE side of the road D268 - direction Solenzara - reaching Renaju Bridge. Parking.
Routes overview
Haddad: missed inside the huge tafone
Omerta slabs
EPERON N
Poniatictacboum TD, 6a max., 5c obbl., 200 m. Trad route
Fine climb not much equipped.
HADDAD TD+, 6b+ max., 6a obbl., 240 m.
A pearl. Great environment and excellent rock.
OMERTA' TD+, 6b+ max., 6a+ obbl., 180 m.
Another great route crossing Haddad in the middle part.
EPERON SE TD+, 6b+ max., 6a obbl., 180 m.
FACE E D+, 5c/6a, 190 m.
HADDAD - OMERTA COMBINATION
Summit altitude: mt. 842
Length: 300 mt.
Exposure: NW
Haddad first ascent: J.L. Fenouil – A. Jamin – B. Privat 1996 – direct variants J.L. Fenouil – P. Clarac
Omerta first ascent: J.L. Fenouil - Sylvie Gariglio - X. Legendre 2008
Starting: Forestal Road near Rinaju Bridge - Road D268 Col de Bavella
Hut: Auberge – Gite d’Etape du Col de Bavella
HADDAD-OMERTA COMBINATION REPORT
Descending from Bavella Pass by D268 road, before Renaju bridge, on your right-hand side a forestal road starts, going lightly down inside the forest. Don’t take its branch, but carry on the main road and cross a stream - Riu San Petru – over a causeway. At an hairpin with a cairn leave the main road and turn on along a level track skirting a pines’ wood. Another cairn marks the start of a steep “talweg” rising to U Peru’ North West Face. 1 hour from D268 Renaju Bridge parking.
Nice combination of two routes, running on the first six pitches of Haddad, a common short crux at the start of the seventh pitch, then running on the last part of Omerta.
1 – A sloping but smooth slab 6a
2- Easier rocks 5b
3 – Climb some “tafoni” leading to the left edge of the enormous central “tafone”. 5b
4 – A spectacular pitch inside the magnificent incredible tafone. 5b
5 – Again inside the “tafone” slantaway toward right to a belay over the pinnacle on the right edge of “tafone”. 3.
6 – From the top of the detached pinnacle a very hard and overhanging move leads to the main face; climb slantaway toward right over smooth rock. 6c (6b+, A0).
7 – An easier pitch. 5b/c
8 - Climb a “tafone” on your left-hand side, then go towards right reaching a slab. Climb a dihedral-crack with a hard move. Little walls lead to a belay. 6a
9 – Towards right along a small ledge, then climb a corner. 6a
10 –11 Last two pitches – not equipped – leading to the summit.
Descent: abseiling the route.
Red Tape
Bavedda stone's world
Bavella range is a wild group situated inside a Regional Park. Free camping and bivouac are not allowed. Fires are strictly forbidden. Maximum care is required to preserve this extraordinary environment.
Nature and climate
Nature is wild and peculiar; in Corsica we can find more than 5% of authoctonous kinds of flower and plants, in addition to authoctonous fauna. On the contrary, several kinds of animal current inside Mediterranean countries are away from Corsica, like squirrels and vipers.Climate is the typical one of the mediterranean middle-mountain areas situated at these latitudes: often very hot in summer and with cold and snowy winters; early and middle Spring and early Fall are the better seasons to climb. Due to Bavella closeness to the sea, winds are often stronger how much they are at the same height in the Alps. Rainfall sometimes are important and dangerous when joined with strong winds. On the contrary, sometimes we can find some long periods of drought.
From U Peru summit view over Teghie Lisce
When to climb
Best season to climb goes from late April to October.Where to stay
COL DE BAVELLA-Auberge du Col de Bavella – Hotel and Gite d’Etape
AUBERGE DU COL DE BAVELLA
-Les Aiguilles de Bavella – Gite d’Etape
GITE D'ETAPE LES AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA
ZONZA
–Hotel L’Aiglon, Hotel de la Terrasse
-Municipal Camping of Zonza, Camping La Riviere (Zonza)
Meteo
METEO CORSEGuidebooks and maps
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“Guide d’escalade en Corse” Vol. I Massif de Bavella Jean Paul Quilici – Bernard Vaucher
“Rocca è Sole” Massif de Bavedda Jean Paul Quilici – Francis Thibaudeau
Map: IGN 4253 ET “Aiguilles de Bavella – Solenzara”
