Page Type: | Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon: | 41.82448°N / 9.25323°E |
County: | Bavella |
Activities: | Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing |
Season: | Spring, Fall |
Elevation: | 3363 ft / 1025 m |
Geographical classification: Corsica - Corse > Bavella Massif > Teghie Lisce
The charming South Face of Teghie Lisce - a jewel in the general framework of climbing in the Bavella Massif - is located on the right-hand side of the road D268 when driving from Solenzara in the direction of Col de Bavella. You can clearly see Teghie Lisce when driving on this road from Solenzara in the direction of the Bavella Pass. This cliff – a true little granite ocean – reminds its huge "Yosemite cousins” and draws irresistibly the climber’s eye. Several routes had been realized here on this face, all requiring a hard and engaged climb, except for the route "Invitation au Voyage", the most accessible climb on Teghie Lisce. The rock is extraordinarily solid and offers different climbing ways, from the slabs in sheer adherence to the off-width.
Road access to Bavella Pass
- From Bastia (Corsica Eastern coast) follow the road RN 198 to Solenzara; less then 1 km. before getting to Solenzara turn to right and follow the road D268 towards Bavella Pass (km. 130 from Bastia).
- From Aiaccio (Corsica Western coast) follow the road RN 196 to Petreto, then the road N852 to Aullene, Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio). From Zonza follow D268 to Col de Bavella.
Getting to Teghie Lisce from Solenzara
Follow the road D268 and park the car at Polischellu Bridge, between Bocca di Larone (Larone Pass) and Col de Bavella.
Getting to Teghie Lisce from Bavella Pass
Follow the road D268 down along NE side, reaching Polischellu Bridge. Parking.
Walking approach
From Polischellu Bridge follow Polischellu stream along its orographical left bank as far as the third waterfall (15 minutes from the bridge). Leave the stream following on your right-hand side a little trail inside the thick vegetation, rising towards a small rocky gully – little cairn – leading to the base of the cliff (45 minutes from Polischellu Bridge).
Teghie Lisce routes overview from left to right:
"Abbastanza"
"Acqua in bocca"
"La Marseillaise” 350 m.
“Slovak Route” 6c+
“La Porte des Cieux” 6b “Octogènèse” 8a+
“Resurrection des Roses” 7b
"Barbier - Biancarelli" 7b max., 6a/b obbl., 150 m.
“Etau e violon” 6c max., 6a obbl., 200 m.
“L’equipage” 7b max or A1, 6b obbl., 150 m.
“Storia d’Acqua i di Luna” 7c max., 7a obbl., 220 m.
"Invitation au Voyage" 6a max, 6a obbl., 200 m.
"La Foire aux immortels" 6c max., 6b obbl., 300 m.
"Penduleum" 7a max, 6c obbl., 200 m.