Teghie Lisce m. 1025
Teghie Lisce charming South Face - a jewel inside the outline of climbing in Bavella - overlooks the right-hand side of the road D268 when following it from Solenzara to Bavella Pass. This cliff – a true little granite ocean – reminds its huge Yosemite “cousins” and draws irresistibly the climber’s eye.
Several routes had been realized here, all requiring a hard and engaged climb, except for the route “Invitation au Voyage”, the most accessible route in this sector. The rock is extraordinarily solid and offers different climbing ways, from the slabs in sheer adherence to the off-width.
Road access to Bavella Pass
- From Bastia (Corsica Eastern coast) follow the road RN 198 to Solenzara; less then 1 km. before getting to Solenzara turn to right and follow the road D268 towards Bavella Pass (km. 130 from Bastia).
- From Aiaccio (Corsica Western coast) follow the road RN 196 to Petreto, then the road N852 to Aullene, Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio). From Zonza follow D268 to Col de Bavella.
Getting to Teghie Lisce from Solenzara
Follow the road D268 and park the car at Polischellu Bridge, between Bocca di Larone (Larone Pass) and Col de Bavella.
Getting to Teghie Lisce from Bavella Pass
Follow the road D268 down along NE side, reaching Polischellu Bridge. Parking.
From Polischellu Bridge follow Polischellu stream along its orographical left bank as far as the third waterfall (15 minutes from the bridge). Leave the stream following on your right-hand side a little trail inside the thick vegetation, rising towards a small rocky gully – little cairn – leading to the base of the cliff (45 minutes from Polischellu Bridge).
Teghie Lisce Routes overview from left to right-hand side:
"Acqua in bocca"
“La Marseillaise” 350 m.
“Slovak Route” 6c+
“La Porte des Cieux” 6b
“Resurrection des Roses” 7b
"Barbier - Biancarelli"7b max., 6a/b obbl., 150 m.
“Etau e violon” 6c max., 6a obbl., 200 m.
“L’equipage” 7b max or A1, 6b obbl., 150 m.
“Storia d’Acqua i di Luna” 7c max., 7a obbl., 220 m.
"Invitation au Voyage" 6a max, 6a obbl., 200 m.
"La Foire aux immortels" 6c max., 6b obbl., 300 m.
"Penduleum" 7a max, 6c obbl., 200 m.
Nature and climateNature is wild and peculiar; in Corsica we can find more than 5% of authoctonous kinds of flower and plants, in addition to authoctonous fauna. On the contrary, several kinds of animal current inside Mediterranean countries are away from Corsica, like squirrels and vipers.
Climate is the typical one of the mediterranean middle-mountain areas situated at these latitudes: often very hot in summer and with cold and snowy winters; early and middle Spring and early Fall are the better seasons to climb. Due to Bavella closeness to the sea, winds are often stronger how much they are at the same height in the Alps. Rainfall sometimes are important and dangerous when joined with strong winds. On the contrary, sometimes we can find some long periods of drought.
Red TapeFree camping and bivouac are not allowed. Fires are strictly forbidden. Maximum care is required to preserve this extraordinary environment.
Where to stayCOL DE BAVELLA
- Auberge du Col de Bavella – Hotel and Gite d’Etape AUBERGE DU COL DE BAVELLA
- Les Aiguilles de Bavella – Gite d’Etape
GITE D'ETAPE LES AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA
–Hotel L’Aiglon, Hotel de la Terrasse.
Municipal Camping of Zonza, Camping La Riviere (Zonza)
Residence - Rented rooms
When to climbTeghie Lisce South Face is sometimes very hot. Best seasons to climb are Spring and Fall.
Guidebooks and Maps
“Guide d’escalade en Corse” Vol. I Massif de Bavella Jean Paul Quilici – Bernard Vaucher
“Rocca è Sole” Massif de Bavedda by Jean Paul Quilici – Francis Thibaudeau
IGN 4253 ET “Aiguilles de Bavella – Solenzara”