Overview
Punta Malanda
Punta Malanda - on the right - with Punta Lunarda on the left
PUNTA MALANDA m. 1166
With its magnificent reddish SE face, Punta Malanda is a lonely dome of Bavella Group, lying West to Bocca di Larone and overlooking the great and complex canyon named Purcaraccia.
Its roundish shapes quite clash with the slender steepness of the nearby Punta Lunarda. Also in reason of its long approach, to climb this peak will give you a wild experience; and in reason of its secluded situation its faces waited until the beginning of the XXI century to be climbed.
Just the easy normal route, having only a panoramic interest, had been climbed before.
Getting There
Majestic entrance into Bavella group is Bavella Pass mt. 1211.ROAD ITINERARIES TO BAVELLA PASS
From BASTIA (Corsica Eastern coast) take RN 198 towards Solenzara; a few kilometers before getting there, turn to right following D268 to Bavella Pass (km. 130 from Bastia).
From AIACCIO (Corsica Western coast) follow the road RN 196 to Petreto, then the road N852 to Aullene, Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio).
From Bavella Pass go down along North East side of the road D268, reaching a pass named Bocca di Larone mt. 608. Parking. From Bocca di Larone parking get back a bit along D268 to reach on the West side of the pass the first great hairpin.
Nature and climate
Nature is wild and peculiar; in Corsica we can find more than 5% of authoctonous kinds of flower and plants, in addition to authoctonous fauna. On the contrary, several kinds of animal current inside Mediterranean countries are away from Corsica, like squirrels and vipers.
Climate is the typical one of the mediterranean middle-mountain areas situated at these latitudes: often very hot in summer and with cold and snowy winters; early and middle Spring and early Fall are the better seasons to climb. Due to Bavella closeness to the sea, winds are often stronger how much they are at the same height in the Alps. Rainfall sometimes are important and dangerous when joined with strong winds. On the contrary, sometimes we can find some long periods of drought.
Red Tape
Bavella range is a wild group situated inside a Regional Park. Free camping and bivouac are not allowed. Fires are strictly forbidden. Maximum care is required to preserve this extraordinary environment.Routes overview
Sisyphe first pitches
Routes overview (French scale):
SE FACE
- Sisyphe ou "L’Envolèe Granitique" TD+, 6b+ max., 6a obbl., 270 m.- equipped with bolts
- La Fille d'Avril TD+, 6c max., 6a+ obbl., 290 m. - equipped with bolts
- Gaia TD+, 6b max., 6b obbl., 270 m. - trad route
NORTH FACE
- Voie de la Face Nord ABO, 7c max., 6c obbl., 200 m. - equipped with bolts
"Sysiphe" report
Punta Malanda SE Face - Sisyphe ou "L'envolèe granitique"
Sisyphe last abseil
SISYPHE ou L'ENVOLEE GRANITIQUE REPORT
TD sup., F6b+, F6a obbl.
Summit altitude: mt. 1166
Length: 270 mt.
Pitches: 7
Exposure: SE
First ascent: D. Allemand – L. Menetrier 2000
Starting: Bocca di Larone mt. 608 - Road D268 Col de Bavella
Hut: Auberge – Gite d’Etape du Col de Bavella
A technical superb route with extra-solid red granite. Equipped with bolts.
Inside the D268 hairpin a mainly level track starts getting into a dense vegetation and skirting the great canyon of Purcaraccia. After half an hour the track goes down to reach the stream. Cross the river gaining the opposite bank; after the ford rise immediately up along the steep vegetated slope along a not very obvious trail with several cairns. After 15 minutes the trail goes towards left along some slopes, reaching a great vegetated gully. Climb the gully. Starting point is situated in the upper and right part of the gully (1 hour and 30 minutes from Bocca di Larone).
SISYPHE REPORT (French Scale)
1 – Climb a technical smooth and sloping slab 6b+
2- Follow another technical slab a bit easier 6a+
3 - Another slab 5b
4 – Head slantaway towards right. Now the climb becomes steeper. A crux move, then a fine climb. 6a
5 – A difficult and steep wall with some athletic moves. Spaced bolts. 6b
6 – Another steep wall a bit easier. Spaced bolts. 6a
7 – An easy pitchs leads over the superb summit. A majestic view over Bavella stone’s world.
Descent: abseiling. The first three abseils are along the route. Then go towards left
reaching a vegetated ledge. From here an abseil reachs the route’s second belay. Another abseil leads to the bottom.
When to climb and hike
Best seasons are Spring and Fall.Where to stay
The summit of the "dome"
COL DE BAVELLA
- Auberge du Col de Bavella – Hotel and Gite d’Etape
AUBERGE DU COL DE BAVELLA
- Les Aiguilles de Bavella – Gite d’Etape
GITE D'ETAPE LES AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA
ZONZA
– Hotel L’Aiglon, Hotel de la Terrasse
- Municipal Camping of Zonza, Camping La Riviere
Meteo
METEO CORSEGuidebooks and maps
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“Guide d’escalade en Corse” Vol. I Massif de Bavella Jean Paul Quilici – Bernard Vaucher
“Rocca è Sole” Massif de Bavedda Jean Paul Quilici – Francis Thibaudeau
Map: IGN 4253 ET “Aiguilles de Bavella – Solenzara”
Images
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