"Punta Innominata" - "Aiguille sans nom" - "Unnamed peak"
Summit with minor mountaineering interest (if compared to the neighbours), but in a very good panoramic position on the southern side of Mont Blanc. Rarely climbed end in itself, but much more often crossed during the "Innominata ridge" route.
The main peak is placed at the end of the ridge beetwen the glaciers and "Brouillard" and "Frêney", and it is not visible from the valley because it is hidden by his secondary summit, that has also a short SSW ridge.
So, it is not a proper mountain in itself but the culmination of a ridge enclosed amongst the "Colle dell’ Innominata 3205m” and "Col du Frêney 3641m”. Very steep on the Frêney side (NE), a little less on the Brouillard one (SW).
However most of the climbers use to avoid it crossing the Brouillard glacier and start the "Innominata" route from the bivouacs "Crippa" and "Lampugnani" (Col Eccles)
The quality of the rock is good but no pure granite yet. In the past it was called "Aiguille Blanche du Brouillard”.
First ascent: Agostino Durazzo, Julien Grange and Seraphin Henry July 23rd 1872
Getting there and refuges
The Innominata ridge overhang the refuge Monzino and the Italian “Val Veny”.
From the village of Courmayeur, take the paved road that get into the Val Veny, untill a yellow signal in the nearby of "Bar Pramotton” that indicate the route to Monzino hut.
In low turistic season is possible to carry on by car untill the hamlet of Frêney 1589m (usually forbidden acces).
Few meter before the hamlet, when the road go across a bridge, take the path n.16. The path go through a wood in the begin and than shortly over two rivers (unsafe bridges).
Once reached the foot of the rocky backwash, same iron ladders and chains help to get to the hut (bronze plaque with the word "Innominata” in the place).
It is not a real “ferrata” but it should be climbed carefully.
At the end of the chains, an easy path take fast to the hut. (2.30/3.00 from Val Veny EE)
The refuge “Franco Monzino” is placed on a grass couterfort at 2590m.
It belongs to the "Società delle Guide di Courmayeur". Open from the mid of june to the mid of september.
60 places and 8 in the winter room. Tel. 0165/809553
SE ridge - Normal route:
From the ref. Monzino, follow the path that climbs the field above. From the plateau, a track crosses the gravel slope on the right and climbs the moraine reaching the glacier of "Chatelet".
On this, climb pointing to the avalanche cone above it. Go over the wet cliff and climb to right direction on varied terrain and easy rocks, towards the SE ridge that can be reached at different points.
Usually above its steepest section, where it forms a shoulder. From there follows all the long ridge, often bypassing the rock ledges on their right side. Then for sharp ridge to the main peak.
4.00 to 5.30 hours PD+/AD
SSW ridge to the secondary summit:
(Preuss route) - Interesting route but quite short. AD with a passage of IV°+
From glacier of Brouillard. Ice route useful usually in descent. PD+
From Col Frêney. 90m PD+/AD
Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli- TD with passages of V+
Wheather informations and mountain links
Wheather forecast sites:
Snowinfo: 0033/836 681 020 (only in France).
In French and English lenguage.
Regione Valle d'Aosta meteo
Office de Haute Montagnes (OHM)/
Phone: 0033450 532 208
Bureau des Guides in Chamonix
Guide alpine Courmayeur
Tel. +390165842064 Fax. +390165842357