Torre Piccola di Falzarego

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Belluno, Italy, Europe
County:
Veneto
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Elevation:
7927 ft / 2416 m
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Torre Piccola di Falzarego
Created On: Jun 2, 2013
Last Edited On: Feb 26, 2018

Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Fanis Group > Torre Piccola di Falzarego

Torre Piccola di Falzarego 2416 m


A very interesting group of towers, characterized by a high quality “dolomia”, is rising close to Passo Falzarego (m. 2105); these peaks belong to the Fanis group and are easily accessible from the national road (SS 48) rising from Cortina d’Ampezzo towards the pass. Torre Piccola di Falzarego, rising nearby the higher and greater  Torre Grande, is one of most interesting, because of its nice shape, the exposition of its routes, the extraordinary quality of the rock and the pleasant climbing. 

Wide view from the summit of Torre Piccola labelled
View from the summit of Torre Piccola
An unwonted perspective of Torri di Falzarego and the gigantic Tofana at sunset
Torri di Falzarego and the gigantic Tofana behind at sunset













As its major sister, Torre Piccola shows a steep yellow and grey South-East face, overlooking the ruins of the WWI ancient military hospital, and a shorter grey and compact West face.

Getting There

Road access

- Road approach from Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North, getting Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, reaching San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo; from here follow on the left the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego.

- Road approach from Bolzano: follow the Brennero Motorway, exit Bressanone and then follow the road SS 51 along Val Pusteria, leading to Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right Val di Landro, getting Carbonin m. 1432. At the fork road in Carbonin turn to right towards Cortina d’Ampezzo. From Cortina take the road SS48 rising to Passo Falzarego.

Torre Piccola di Falzarego approach path
The approach path
Marmolada North side
Marmolada seen from the ancient WWI hospital










Walking access to S face routes

From Ristorante Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col when driving  from Cortina, follow an obvious path ( red-white marks) rising to a level war-road (Boscato, m. 2168). Turn to right (East), walking on the level war-road heading towards the ruins of the ancient military hospital. 50 meters before getting there, follow on the left a steep track rising to the bottom of the South face of the tower. (30 min. from the parking)

Walking access to W face routes

From Ristorante Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col from Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow an obvious path ( red-white marks) rising to a level war-road (Boscato, m. 2168). Turn to left (West), follow the war-road for about 20 meters, then turn to right on a steep track rising amongst the dwarf-pines getting to the West side of the peak. (50 min. from the parking)

History

First summit ascent: unknown climbers along the NW ridge, nowadays the Normal route to the summit

Routes overview

All the routes of Torre Piccola di Falzarego (UIAA Scale):

South and South-East faces

- Via Comici (South Ridge) V-, 240 m.
- Via Brandolini V, 230 m.
- Via delle Guide III, IV, IV+, 250 m.
- Via Diretta Ghedina V, 280 m.

West Face

- Normal Route IV-, 130 m.
- West Face IV, IV+, 115 m.

Descent

Downclimb 15 m. (II, III) towards East, getting a ledge; follow it to left (North) and look for an anchor. A 25 m. abseil leads to a notch between Torre Piccola and Torre Grande. Downclimb the gully between the two towers (possibility of abseiling) leading the track below the towers. Scramble down to the main path.

Climbing pics

Torre Piccola di Falzarego, Diretta Ghedina upper corner
Diretta Ghedina upper corner
Luk climbing the Comici
Climbing the Comici

Red Tape

No particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing. This climbing area is lying inside the Natural Park of Dolomiti Ampezzane - inside the main area of Northern Dolomites - and requires the best care and respect.

Where to stay

Col Gallina Hut is situated very close to the starting point of the approach path; other possibilities on Passo Falzarego, Passo Valparola and obviously in Cortina d’Ampezzo.

- Camping in Cortina d'Ampezzo

When to climb

Best season goes from June to middle October

Surroundings

Tofana di Rozes West face from Torre Piccola di Falzarego
Tofana di Rozes West face from "Diretta Ghedina"
Marmolada North side glacier from the approach path
Marmolada North side glacier from the approach path

Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

Torri di Falzarego map

DOLOMITI METEO - VENETO

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

-Guidebooks

“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi - Ed. Idea Montagna

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia




- Maps

Map: Tabacco 03 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000