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The Aiguille de Blaitière is a peak in the range of Aiguilles de Chamonix. From the Mt Blanc summit, you first have the Aguille de Midi, then a range with 3 distinct aiguilles. The Aiguille de Blaitière is the middle peak of these. This summit is very interesting on the west side for modern rock climbing. The normal route route is an very nice alpine ascent when the couloir Spencer is in good conditions. This is in the begining of the summer season.
The summit consists of 3 points:
Central point 3522m
South point, 3521m
North point, 3506m
The mountain has 4 faces:
SW face with nice rock routes.
NE face with the "voie normale" from Glacier des Nantillons
East face from Glacier d'Envers de Blaitières
SE face, from the major part of Glacier d'Envers de Blaitières
The first ascent was made in 1873 by T.S. Kennedy, J.A.G. Marshall, J. Fisher, U. Almer by the route to North Point.
l'aiguille des Ciseaux (3479 m) and l'aiguille de Blaitiére (3522 m). Photo by Antonio Giani
The normal route is grade AD, by the couloir Spencer. Sylvain Saudan was the first extrême skieur to success this route on skis.
On the EAST face and SE ridge, there is very beautiful rock routes: the Ryan-Lochmatter (500m, D, IV) , the Leininger ( 500m, TD, V), the Britishs ( TD, V+), .../... Access from Refuge d'Envers des Aiguilles.
The West Face has very good rock in some parts. The West pilar is hard, the crack Brown Whillans is famous and the route to the top is a long and technical ascent.
The NorthWest ridge is a long route TD but interesting to do to prepare more technical ascents, (800m, V+, A1).