OverviewIf you climbed the peak, or if you are in any other way very familiar with this mountain, don't hesitate to contact the current maintainer to discuss a possible transfer of the page
The Aiguille de Blaitière is a peak in the range of Aiguilles de Chamonix. From the Mt Blanc summit, you first have the Aguille de Midi, then a range with 3 distinct aiguilles. The Aiguille de Blaitière is the middle peak of these. This summit is very interesting on the west side for modern rock climbing. The normal route route is an very nice alpine ascent when the couloir Spencer is in good conditions. This is in the begining of the summer season.
The summit consists of 3 points:
Central point 3522m
South point, 3521m
North point, 3506m
The mountain has 4 faces:
SW face with nice rock routes.
NE face with the "voie normale" from Glacier des Nantillons
East face from Glacier d'Envers de Blaitières
SE face, from the major part of Glacier d'Envers de Blaitières
The first ascent was made in 1873 by T.S. Kennedy, J.A.G. Marshall, J. Fisher, U. Almer by the route to North Point.
l'aiguille des Ciseaux (3479 m) and l'aiguille de Blaitiére (3522 m). Photo by Antonio Giani
RoutesThe normal route is grade AD, by the couloir Spencer. Sylvain Saudan was the first extrême skieur to success this route on skis.
On the EAST face and SE ridge, there is very beautiful rock routes: the Ryan-Lochmatter (500m, D, IV) , the Leininger ( 500m, TD, V), the Britishs ( TD, V+), .../... Access from Refuge d'Envers des Aiguilles.
The West Face has very good rock in some parts. The West pilar is hard, the crack Brown Whillans is famous and the route to the top is a long and technical ascent.
The NorthWest ridge is a long route TD but interesting to do to prepare more technical ascents, (800m, V+, A1).
Getting ThereFor getting in the Mont Blanc region, see the Mt. Blanc group page.
For access to this particular mountain, there are 4 different approaches:
1. From Aiguille du Midi, if you traverse all the Aiguilles de Chamonix in one or two days from Midi to Grands Charmoz.
2. From Plan de L'Aiguille at the first Cable Car for the modern routes in the West Face
3. From Plan de L'Aiguille Hut or Bivouac if you want to Climb routes to the top.
4. From Envers des Aiguilles Hut for the Mer de Glace Side.
When To ClimbThe peak can be climbed all year, but summer is probably best. Make sure you are well informed about glacier conditions though.
Pilier Rouge de l'Aiguille de Blaitiere - Route "Nabot Léon" 5th length, a wonderful climb. Photo by Bernhard Sauer
CampingThere is a nice place to Bivouac under Aiguille du Peigne. With a small Lake and good Water. See also the Aiguille du Peigne page itself.
Mountain ConditionsSee the Mt. Blanc group page.