Aiguille du Tour

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
France/Switzerland, Europe
Elevation:
11627 ft / 3544 m
38180 Hits
87.07% Score
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Aiguille du Tour
Created On: Mar 22, 2001
Last Edited On: Nov 20, 2005

Overview


Aiguille du Tour is situated in the northern part of the Mont Banc Massif. It can be climbed rather easely from both France and Switzerland.
It was climbed for the first time in 1926 M. Dreyfus, R. Duval, P. Henry, M. Ichac.
For all the routes you first have to go over the glacier to the foot of Aiguille du Tour and then a mix climb to the summit.

From the cabane du Trient first traverse the Plateau du Trient towards the Col du Tour. Then go to the left to the base of the mountain. Then scramble to the gap between the north and south summit (the north summit is slightly higher). Both summits can be reached by an some easy scrambling.

Getting There


To get to the summit of Aiguille du Tour, there are two mountain cabines that are almost always used.
From the French side it is the refuge Albert premier (2702 m) that is the starting point while from the Suisse side the cabane du Trient (3170 m) is used. It is also possible to start from the Cabane d'Orny (2831 m), but that means that the climb will take one hour longer.

Red Tape


free climb

When To Climb


Best time to climb Aiguille du Tour is Summer, but it can also be done on skies in winter (ski to the foot and then scramble up)

Camping


camping and hotels in Chamonix

Miscellaneous Info


The refuge Albert premier is named after the third king of Belgium who was a mountainclimber. He was killed in a climbing accident at the rocks of March-les-Dames in his homeland where he fell to dead.

If you have information about this mountain that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

External Links

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-4 of 4

norbertc

norbertc - Mar 12, 2002 3:59 am - Voted 8/10

Untitled Comment

I fell into a deep, completely hidden crevasse crossing the Glacier du Trient to the Cabane du Trient on a warm, late July afternoon. We were corded together, so no problem.





Climbing the Aiguille du Tour the next day we found a mixture of rock, ice and snow - plus two dozen other climbers. A helmet is a good idea. We wore our crampons all the way to the eastern summit.

Garfield - Dec 13, 2005 2:50 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Photo

georgen

georgen - Jul 25, 2010 8:21 am - Voted 6/10

First climbed

18 August 1864,the date 1926 is for Table de roc spur.

eporr

eporr - Sep 1, 2014 3:48 am - Hasn't voted

More Detail

Take Argenteirre ski lift to top in village of La Tour. French Alpine Club maintains a hostel-like Chalet in La Tour that is 1/2 board and very nice, CHEAP. 2 hour hike along NW side of glacier to Albert 1st Hut. The hut was just completely renovated and reopened in June 2014 and is the nicest hut I've been in. It will definitely open up more traffic to the Aguille du Chardonet and La Tour.



The "normal" route is not technical with a long glacier traverse around the mountain with a 200 ft section that can be short roped. This now is the most common way of descent and by far the best climb to summit is via Table de Roc.



Table de Roc is a short "AD" climb that has some mixed parts but 90% alpine rock. Only a few sections of rock that is maybe 5.8 but most of the rock would be 5.5-7, and done without crampons. There are 2 nice false peaks with a great exposed ridge line and great views of the Chardonet. Of course the first section ends on the "Table" which makes for a good kodak moment.

Viewing: 1-4 of 4