Aiguille Savoie

Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon: 45.90940°N / 7.01340°E
Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Season: Summer
Elevation: 11824 ft / 3604 m


In the eastern part on Mont Blanc group, east of Grandes Jorasses, two valleys enter from south (val Ferret) to the main ridge :
the Triolet and the Pré de Bar.
The Triolet valley (hosting the Triolet glacier) is delimited
- at the south side by the ridge Greuvetta-Leschaux
- at the north-west side by a long ridge from Aiguille du Leschaud to Aiguille du Triolet
- at the north-east side by the ridge coming down from Aiguille du Triolet toward south-east

In the middle of the ridge Leschaud-Triolet a ridge of a "minor" summit comes down in the glacier dividing it in two separate branches :
this minor summit is the Aiguille Savoie

This ridge (or spur) has been climbed first by an alpinism myth: Paul Preuss

Getting There

The access is normally done from Val Ferret (Courmayeur, first valley on the right), using the road till about Arnouva (after Lavachey)
and with a confortable walk less more then 2h long you can reach the Rifugio Dalmazzi al Triolet (~ 2600 m)
Once it was a small and not always comfortable hut, now a modern costruction (not so fine ..) can give you more comforts.
Rifugio DalmazziDalmazzi hutDrawing of the route to...

Routes overview

This summit was known in climbing environments only for the Preuss route, and was not frequently climbed ....

It has one not difficult route - most used to come down - coming from the Col de Taléfre along the north ridge
... but getting the Col de Taléfre is not so easy from SE (coming from Dalmazzi) nor from W (coming from Refuge du Couvercle)
dangerous and difficult !
Coming down a rappel can help for passing the bergschrund.

Coming down toward Col Savoie along the SW ridge is difficult and requires to pay much attention

I heard about a difficult route (Greloz) on the NW side

but ... if you want to amuse yourself you have 2 fine routes starting from Dalmazzi :

- south wall - Ottoz - 450 m - TD inf (if you can reach the rock), the key pitches are at the startup
- SE ridge - Preuss - 800 m - D - long, long, long and fine climb, not hard, not to be underestimated
the key pitches are in the higher part (2 pitches 4°sup) and the rock is almost always fine.
Better to study the track to get the starting point, approach should be done very early in the morning (before sunrise)
Try to get the summit before 12 and you'll have a safe coming down ...

... I forgot ... this route (Preuss) is a very good training for the "big classical routes" of Mont Blanc group, but requires a good training
(I used it as training for the Tronchey to GJ ... but that one is "another thing")

When To Climb

July - August


Comfortable (and cheap) camping places in Planpincieux.