Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 34.88520°N / 111.7932°W
Additional Information Route Type: Technical Rock Climb
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: II 5.9
Sign the Climber's Log


Tower is visible from the parking lot (or shortly thereafter) though it tends to blend in with the parent cliff in the background. Look for the characteristic bulbous summit block (see photos). Follow the approach directions on the main page under Getting There to reach the base of the SW face of the formation (that is roughly the face you first glance at on the approach). Route follows this face for the first three out of four pitches.

Route Description

Though some of the guidebooks rate this route as 5.9+ (putting on par with Regular Route up The Mace), I don't think that is accurate. This route is definitely a notch easier than the Regular Route on The Mace. 5.9 rating seems appropriate.

Pitch 1: 5.8+, 70 feet. Climb a vertical “groove”. Nice cracks in the back and plenty of face holds make this pitch easier than it looks. One short flaring squeeze section is passed followed by a bulge through the limestone band (crux). Belay from two fat bolts on a small stance.

Pitch 2: 5.9, 100 feet. Climb a good hand crack in the back of a tight flare. Going eases 20 feet above the belay. Fun hand crack eventually tapers down to thin hands and ends below a small roof. Step right and mantle onto sloping ledges. Series of 5.8-ish mantle moves comprise the upper third of this pitch. Belay from two fat bolts on a sloping slab.

Pitch 3: 5.7, 60 feet. Climb up and right traversing past 4 drilled angles and one new (retro?) bolt. Move up past the bolt and end the pitch on a huge ledge (sub-summit) with a small bush.

Pitch 4: 5.9, 50 feet. Step across to the base of the summit block. Move up and left (5.7-5.8) to reach the lower angle “backside” of the summit block. Clip a bolt and mantle (5.9 if you’re not too short). Easy slab terrain brings you to the summit. Belay from rap anchors (bolts + chains).

Descent: One double rope rap (~180 feet to the dirt; no scrambling required) off the backside of the summit will bring you to the notch between the spire and the parent cliff. Scramble down and around the spire back to the base of the route.

Essential Gear

Two ropes.
2 each green and yellow Aliens
3 red Aliens (or #0.5 Camalots)
3 each #0.75 to #3 Camalots.

Route Topos

More Route Photos

More Route Photos

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-4 of 4
Alex Wood

Alex Wood - Feb 12, 2012 3:46 pm - Voted 10/10

One Rope

There is an newish (?) anchor mid-wall on the rap so you could do a two pitch rappel with one 60m. I personally would just rather bring a second rope and avoid the hanging belay.


rpc - Feb 13, 2012 11:08 am - Hasn't voted

Re: One Rope

Pathetic convenience anchors... I recall a discussion about this on MP with majority of climbers agreeing that there was no need to bolt more shit in just because a few are too lazy to bring a 2nd rope (for the trivial double rope rap off the summit)... thanks for the heads up Alex.

Alex Wood

Alex Wood - Feb 13, 2012 5:24 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: One Rope

Yeah I agree. Those bolts aren't needed. It is easy enough to bring two ropes. Oh well. Nice page by the way!


rpc - Feb 13, 2012 6:06 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: One Rope

thanks man.

Viewing: 1-4 of 4