Petite Aiguille Verte

Petite Aiguille Verte

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 45.94790°N / 6.95860°E
Additional Information Elevation: 11522 ft / 3512 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview


The Petite Aiguille Verte is an excellent peak for training and acclimatizing that is easily accessed from Argentière via the Grands Montets cable car. All of the routes are quite short and can be climbed year-round. The normal route along the NW Ridge is quite interesting and is ideally suited for beginning alpine climbers. It involves some moderately steep snow, crossing a rimaye/bergschrund, and a few easy rock moves (UIAA III) on an exposed ridge. It is featured in Rebuffat's 100 Finest Climbs of the Mont Blanc Massif.

Petite Aiguille Verte
Petite Aiguille Verte

The views from the summit ridge are quite nice, with the Aig du Chardonnet, Aig d'Argentiere, and Tour Noire visible to the east, and Les Drus and the Grands Montets Ridge of the Aiguille Verte to the south.

Getting There


All routes can be accessed from the Grands Montets cable car, which is located just outside the town of Argentiere. There is frequent bus service to the base station from all of the major villages in the Chamonix valley (Le Tour, Chamonix, Les Houches, etc). The Chamonix valley can be reached easily by bus from the Geneva Airport in under 2 hours (service provided by SAT Bus Company), or by train from virtually anywhere in Europe.

Routes Overview


1) NW Ridge (100m on the ridge, F+/PD-, UIAA III, 3 hrs) -- The normal route to the summit, a classic, and often very crowded. It is possible to bivouac at the top station of the Grands Montets to get a head start on those coming up from the valley (bring a sleeping bag). From the cable car station, go down the stairs to the small glacier and head directly across the Col des Grands Montets. Climb directly up the snow slopes ahead, straight up at first, and then trending right towards an obvious saddle on the ridge. Cross the bergschrund at any point (usually far to the right, almost below the saddle) and continue on to reach the saddle (approx. 3,400m). Turn left up the ridge, passing over moderately steep but easy mixed ground (45 degrees). Eventually cross to the right side of the ridge and arrive at a belay stance below the crux rock step. Climb up slightly right, then traverse a few steps left on a sloping ledge and make the long reach for large handholds (UIAA III). Climb up past fixed slings and continue along the sharp and exposed ridge to the summit. In winter, the ridge can be quite snowy and tricky in sections. The saddle just before the summit can be somewhat delicate under snowy conditions.

2) NW Face (100m, PD, 45 degrees, 2-3 hrs) -- Climb any line up the face directly opposite the Grands Montets, crossing the bergschrund at any convenient point. When looking at the face, the NW Ridge is on the right and NNE Ridge on the left.

3) NNE RIdge (150m, PD, 3 hrs) -- An alternative to the NW Ridge. Start as for the normal route, but cross the bergschrund at its left end to reach the NNE Ridge. Follow the ridge over or around several rock towers to reach a curving snow crest (the "Demi-Lune"). Continue to the summit rocks.

4) ENE (Chevalier) Couloir (300m, PD+, 50-55 degrees, 3 hrs) From the Col des Grands Montets, head down the Glacier du Rognon towards the Argentiere Glacier and countour right along the base of the Grands Montets Ridge descending from the Aiguille Verte to reach the start of the wide couloir. Climb steeply up snow and ice (50-55 degrees) to reach the snow crest on the NNE Ridge ("Demi-Lune"), just before the summit rocks.

Note: The Alpine Club guide rates the Chevalier Couloir PD+. However, one French guidebook rates it AD+ to D, depending on the condition of the bergschrund. I found it a bit difficult for PD+ and believe AD+ is a more accurate rating.

Red Tape


There are no permits or fees required to climb. A round-trip ticket to the top of the Grands Montets costs about 20 Euro. Keep in mind though that the cable car is closed briefly in the spring and fall (between the peak seasons for climbing and skiing).

When To Climb


The Petit Aiguille Verte can be climbed year-round and is an excellent climb in winter (highly recommended). Crossing the rimaye may be more difficult in summer and there may be a substantial amount of snow on the ridge in winter, both of which may add to the overall difficulty. There are far fewer people in winter, however, which improves the overall experience.

Where to stay

Chamonix is a primary destination, offering various kinds of accommodation (hotels, huts, gites, renting rooms). There are many campsites in the town of Chamonix (both in the Northern and Southern ends of the town) and in the villages of Les Praz, Argentiere, and Les Houches. They are often very crowded during the high season. Camping is allowed in the mountains, near the Index station for example, but technically only permitted from dusk to dawn. Some people camp here for a few days in order to climb several routes in the Aiguilles Rouges. 
Main campsites:
 
- Camping la Mer de Glace,  Les Praz (3 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450534403
- Camping les Deux Glaciers,
  Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450531584
Camping les Arolles,  close to the centre of Chamonix - +33(0)450531430
- Camping les Cimes, Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450535893
- Camping les Marmottes, +33(0)450536124
- Camping Glacier d'Argentière, Argentière (8 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450541736

Chamonix Campsites Listing

Meteo

Meteo Chamonix

Guidebooks and maps

- The Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 Finest Routes (Gaston Rébuffat) (several editions) - Mont Blanc Massif: Selected Climbs (Lindsay Griffin) (Volumes I and II, ISBN 0900523573 and 0900523581)



Children

Children

Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.