Close to the well known Passo Falzarego there are different towers of good dolomia; one of these is the sunny Punta Alpini 2380 m., a sharp pinnacle visible on the right (North) of the "Grande Strada delle Dolomiti" or road SS48, when driving from Cortina in the direction of the Passo Falzarego.
Punta Alpini lies on the right of the best known Torri del Falzarego (Torre Grande and Torre Piccola), belongs to the Fanis Group and it’s quickly accessible from the Ristoro Strobel m. 2055 along the road SS48. Amongst the peaks belonging to the Falzarego area, Punta Alpini is not a famous destination, but a nice and pleasant route runs on its sunny South ridge, offering an amusing and not sustained climb.
Two different road approachs are possible depending if you're coming from Bolzano or Belluno. - From Bolzano: take the Brennero Highway, exit to Bressanone and take the Val Pusteria, getting Brunico and Dobbiaco; here turn to right to Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin and then Cortina d’Ampezzo. In Cortina take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego and park the car at Ristoro Strobel, about 1 km. before the pass. - From Belluno: follow the road SS 51 to Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; in Pieve turn to left, getting to Cortina d’Ampezzo, and here take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego. Park the car as for the previous point.
Route: South Ridge
Punta Alpini South ridge
Difficulty: AD+ (Alpine scale), V- (only a short move) Length: 235 m, 7 pitches
A nice and pleasant route, offering an amusing and not sustained climb. The good quality of the rock and the quick approach are other points in favour. Very advisable.
Approach: from Ristoro Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col from Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow a path signed with red-white marks, joining a WWI road in locality Boscato m. 2168. Turn to right, getting soon the ruins of the WWI ancient military hospital. From the hospital take the path rising on the right of Torre Grande di Falzarego, just dominating the place. After a couple of hairpins leave the main path and climb up on the left along debris to the start of the route, which is located a few meters on the right of the deep gully between Torre Grande di Falzarego and Punta Alpini. Fixed peg and red mark (half a hour from the road).
L1 V, 30 m - Direct start in an obvious dihedral with slightly overhanging exit, then slab and easier up to the belay (V, IV, V-, 5 pegs). The first pitch can be avoided with a variation on the left with difficulties of IV and IV- L2 IV, 28 m - Easy climb to go around a small pillar, then climb on the beautiful gray slabs ( II, IV+, IV- 2 hourglasses, 3 pegs) L3, V-, 30 m - On the ridge, then short overhang at the end of the pitch (IV, V-, 2 pegs) L4, IV, 27 m - Short easy stretch, then a slab (II, III, IV 1 pegs) L5, III, 50 m - Easy sharp ridge (II and III, 2 pegs and 2 bolts) Once at the belay, some yellow marks indicate an escape route on an exposed path. L6, IV-, 35 m - Ramp, dihedral, crack (III, IV-, 2 pegs) L7, III+, 55 m - A short wall, then a ramp to the left, then a gully (III, III+, 3 pegs)
The last pitch can be subdivided in two pitch with an equipped intermediate belay.
Descent: from the summit follow the ridge keeping the right side (red marks) to an equipped belay, from which a short rappel leads to the saddle between Punta Alpini and Cima Falzarego. Traverse the saddle on exposed terrain to a second belay equipped for a rappel. From the saddle make a 25 meters abseil along the right gully (East), then downclimb the lower part of the gully. Exit left and after about 50 m take a narrow path, then easy rocks (another abseil is possible).
alternatively From the saddle follow the red marks and go up the couloir (I and II) until you reach the fork from which it starts the Torre Grande di Falzarego descent path (red marks, 90 m, possibility of stopping on an hourglass after 35 m from the abseil stop)
No fees no permits required
When to Climb
Best months are June, July, August, September and October
Where to stay
There is a wide choice of different kinds of accommodations in Cortina d'Ampezzo and surroundings: hotels, appartments, campgrounds and huts.
"IV grado e più Dolomiti Orientali 2" - E. Zorzi, L. Brigo, C. Piovan
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