Croda Marcora

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Belluno, Italy, Europe
County:
Cortina Dolomites
Activities:
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata
Season:
Summer
Elevation:
10348 ft / 3154 m
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Page By:
Croda Marcora
Created On: Sep 30, 2013
Last Edited On: Apr 20, 2018

Overview


Croda Marcora 3154 m


What's New on this Page?

* Jul 28, 2017 - Ownership switched by andrea
* Aug 20, 2017 - Started the overhaul (Page under review)

Croda Marcòra 3154 m is an imposing peak that dominates San Vito di Cadore with its vertical South wall. For anyone on the road to get Cortina d'Ampezzo from the Val Boite, just before the town, on the right it appears a huge wall of rock. It's the West side of the Sorapìss group, whose main summit is hidden from here. The entire wall visible culminates in the "Croda Marcora"; when seen from other side it's inconspicuous and easily confused with towers and pinnacles that surround it. 
It is the second peak of the group in order of height and can be easily combined with the ascent to the nearby Fópa di Matìa and Sorapìss. In spite of its verticality on the side of the Val Boite, the summit is quite easy to reach, apart from the chimney common with the Normal route to Sorapíss, a III degree UIAA. The top is composed of a rocky ridge with easy approach on gravel steps, but when facing the SW side, you will see an abyss of 2000 meters!  As few in the Alps. Good place for basejumpers!  The show is stunning, the roofs of the houses of Cortina as seen from the window of an airplane. 


Croda Marcora

Croda Marcora from San Vito di Cadore



The Croda Marcora branches off to the NW with a long rocky ridge to the Punta Nera 2847m. Easily accessible from the cableways of "Faloria". While in the NE branch, there is a peak called Fopa di Mattia 3155m, just a meter higher, but not very important.

More or less at a height of 2500, the SW wall is crossed by a dizzying ledge, called "cengia del Banco", wherefrom passes the "Via Ferrata Berti". On its south side, the Croda Marcora, form a rocky outcrop of 450m, and at the base is placed a cozy bivouac called "Slataper" 2600m.

A few meters from the bivouac (forcella del Bivacco 2670m), you can look down from a natural balcony to the valley and, during the sunset, see the sun illuminating the tops of Antelao and Croda Marcora, while the valley is already in the darkness.

Croda Marcora and Monte Antelao

Croda Marcora seen from Cortina.



Getting There

The Sorapiss group is almost complitely surrounded by roads an valleys, so there are more the one option.

Numerous routes to get there. Here the routes that take to the biavouac Slataper and the "normal route":

To and from Auronzo di Cadore (valle d'Ansiei) 864m:

By car:
Milano or Venice A4 - Belluno A27 - Longarone - Auronzo di Cadore
Bressanone - Dobbiaco - Sesto - Passo di Monte Croce Comelico - Auronzo di Cadore
Cortina d'Ampezzo - Passo tre Croci - Auronzo di cadore

Paths:
From val d'Ansiei - path 227 (sentiero "Osiride Brovedani") - biavouac Comici - path 247 - bivouac Slataper
From val d'Ansiei - path 217 - refuge Vandelli - path 215 - ferrata "Berti" - bivouac Slataper


To and from Cortina d'Ampezzo 1211m:

By car:
Milano or Venice A4 - Belluno A27 - Pieve di Cadore - Cortina - passo 3 Croci
Bressanone - Dobbiaco - Cortina - Passo 3 Croci
Bressanone - Dobbiaco - Misurina - Passo 3 Croci

Paths:
From Passo 3 Croci - path 215 - refuge Vandelli - path 215 - ferrata "Berti" - bivouac Slataper
From Cortina - cablecar to Faloria 2123m - path 215 - ferrata "Berti" - bivouac Slataper



To and from San Vito di Cadore 1010m:

By car:
Milano or Venice A4 - Belluno A27 - Pieve di Cadore - San Vito di Cadore
Bressanone - Dobbiaco - Cortina - San Vito di Cadore

Paths:
Cable car (or by car) to refuge Scotter 1580m - path 226 - refuge San Marco - path 226 - bivouac Slataper
From Chiappuzza (San Vito) - path 225 - refuge San Marco - path 226 - bivouac Slataper

Croda Marcora

The summit


Routes overview

Croda Marcora

Croda Marcora SE spur seen from Passo del Bivacco 2670m


Normal route:

The normal route has half way in common with the normal route to Sorapiss.

From bivouac Slataper goes up through the scree of the "Fond de Rusecco" and leading to the attack under yellow rocks. Climb up on a first ledge and then on a second, than follow it  to the left (more or less 100m). 
Go up in a chimney of 15m, with a smooth wall to the right and up a boulder wedged (a passage of III, anchor for rappel). Few meters above takes another ledge to the left to follow 40m, then climb straight up the steep rocks but easy on the right of a large scree often with snow, Giaron Alto.
 
Here the junction for the Sorapiss. Keep going along the ledge that traverse the SE flank of the mountain to west direction. At the end of the ledge, there are 100 meters of steep gravel path, that takes to another ledge that permit to link again the route to Sorapiss. Point directly to the summit (Croda Marcora), with easy passages of I/I+. After that there is a small snow slope (size dependig of the season). The slope takes to a ridge where the cross of the top is placed. (350m - diff. I/II a passage of III)



Other routes:

From northwest - F.Lacedelli - 02/09/1864 - diff. II 
From west wall - Hemery/G.Pampanin - 1909 - 750m - diff. II
From southwest wall - S.Casara/F.Stefani/G.Cabianca - 19/08/1928 - 750m - diff. IV/V
From southwest wall (via diretta) - A.Dimai/A.Verzi - 03/09/1931 - 750m - diff. V/VI
From southeast spur - I.Dibona/L.Apollonio/G.Barbaria - september 1933 - 750m - diff. IV
From southwest wall (via direttissima) - M.Bonafede/N.Menegus/P.Nessi - 24-25/08/1962 - 750m - diff. IV to VI

Refuges and bivouacs

Refuge "Alfonso Vandelli" 1926m:
Croda Marcora

Biv. Slataper and the Costa Belprà in the background (Marmarole)

 
Open: 20/06 to 20/09 
Telephone: +39 043539015 
Keeper: Sabrina Pais De Libera
Mobile phone: +39 0435 400547 
Owner: CAI sez. di Venezia
Telephone: +39 041 716900 
Website: www.caivenezia.it/ Link Vai al sito web 
Places: 60 
Winter: 6 


Refuge "San Marco" 1823m:

Open:  20/06 to 20/09 
Telephone: +39 0436 9444 
Keeper: Iva Danelon
Mobile phone: +39 0436 9718 
Owner: CAI sez. di Venezia tel. +39 041 716900 
Website: www.caivenezia.it Link Vai al sito web 
Email: send email 
Places: 37 
Winter: 9

Croda Marcora

The refuge San Marco


Bivouac "Scipio Slataper" 2600m:

Open: permanently
Owner: CAI sez. XXX settembre Trieste
Places: 9  Warning! only 3 beds at disposal actually. No water source around



Red Tape


No fees no permits required


When to climb


From June to September


Meteo


ARPA Dolomiti Meteo


Guidebooks and maps


 



Guidebook  I 3000 delle Dolomiti

"3000 delle Dolomiti" - Ed. Idea Montagna, Collana "Vie Normali", 2012