In the neighbourhood of Passo Falzarego 2105 m there are several towers and walls of high quality dolomia belonging to the Fanis group, quickly accessible from the road joining Cortina d'Ampezzo and Falzarego. Among these peaks Torre Piccola di Falzarego and its major sister Torre Grande di Falzarego are amongst the most interesting ones, in reason of their beautiful slender shape, the exposition of the climbing routes and the quality of the rock. Torre Grande shows a steep yellow and grey South-East face, overlooking the ruins of an ancient WWI military hospital, and a shorter grey and compact West face
First summit ascent: climbers unknown along the gully between Torre Grande di Falzarego and Cima Falzarego
Two of the outstanding alpinists of their time put the signature on Torre Grande: Angelo Dibona (1879-1956), maybe the greatest Alpine Guide at the beginning of the twentieth century, a resolute winner of the most difficult faces of the Dolomites; Emilio Comici (1901-1940), one of the leading representative of the “Sixth Grade’s Age”.
- Road approach from Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, reaching San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo, here follow the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego.
- Road approach from Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway, exit to Bressanone and then follow the road SS 51 along Pusteria Valley, reaching Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin m. 1432. At the fork road in Carbonin turn to right towards Cortina d’Ampezzo.
Walking approach to South-East Face routes
From Ristorante Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col from Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow an obvious path ( red-white marks) rising to a level war-road (Boscato, m. 2168). Turn to right (East), getting to the ruins of the ancient military hospital. From here a steep trail is rising at the bottom of the face. (30 min. from the parking)
Walking approach to West Face routes
From Ristorante Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col from Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow an obvious path ( red-white marks) rising to a level war-road. Turn to left (West), walking on a steep trail leading to the base of the face (50 min. from the parking).
All the routes on Torre Grande di Falzarego (UIAA Scale)
There are two main climbing walls on the tower: a steep yellow and grey SE face and a more affordable grey West Face.
- Via Comici-Del Torso V, 300 m.
- Via Dibona V+, 300 m.
- Via Alpini IV, 160 m.
- South-West Ridge, Via Lussato III, IV, m. 180
Descent: The descent is along the normal route. Head to the North along a groove that leads to the fork that divides the Torre Grande from Cima Falzarego (I and II, some anchors in place). From the fork descent to the left (facing out, West) following a track and some cairns (steps II).
Reaching the bottom of the notch that divides the two towers follow the track down to the right (facing out, East). Cairns. From here you will be soon on the former military road (path route 412).
There are not particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing, but the whole area had been acknowledged inside UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE and requires the best care and respect.
- Col Gallina Hut is the nearest one, otherwise there are some hotels and huts on Passo Falzarego
Best season goes from the middle of June to the middle of September
ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org
“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi - Ed. Idea Montagna
“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia
“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI
Map: Tabacco 03 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000