Torre Grande di Falzarego

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Belluno, Italy, Europe
County:
Veneto
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Elevation:
8366 ft / 2550 m
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Torre Grande di Falzarego
Created On: Oct 26, 2012
Last Edited On: Feb 26, 2018

Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Fanis Group > Torre Grande di Falzarego


Torre Grande di Falzarego 2550 m


Torre Grande di Falzarego
Torre Grande di Falzarego
Powerful Antelao emerging behind Cinque Torri
Powerful Antelao emerging behind Cinque Torri











In the neighbourhood of Passo Falzarego 2105 m there are several towers and walls of high quality dolomia belonging to the Fanis group, quickly accessible from the road joining Cortina d'Ampezzo and Falzarego. Among these peaks Torre Piccola di Falzarego and its major sister Torre Grande di Falzarego are amongst the most interesting ones, in reason of their beautiful slender shape, the exposition of the climbing routes and the quality of the rock. Torre Grande shows a steep yellow and grey South-East face, overlooking the ruins of an ancient WWI military hospital, and a shorter grey and compact West face

History

First summit ascent: climbers unknown along the gully between Torre Grande di Falzarego and Cima Falzarego

Angelo Dibona, one of the greatest Alpine Guide
Angelo Dibona
Emilio Comici
Emilio Comici

Two of the outstanding alpinists of their time put the signature on Torre Grande: Angelo Dibona (1879-1956), maybe the greatest Alpine Guide at the beginning of the twentieth century, a resolute winner of the most difficult faces of the Dolomites; Emilio Comici (1901-1940), one of the leading representative of the “Sixth Grade’s Age”.

Getting there

Road access

- Road approach from Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, reaching San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo, here follow the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego.

- Road approach from Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway, exit to Bressanone and then follow the road SS 51 along Pusteria Valley, reaching Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin m. 1432. At the fork road in Carbonin turn to right towards Cortina d’Ampezzo.

Torre Falzarego
Torri Falzarego

Walking approach to South-East Face routes

From Ristorante Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col from Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow an obvious path ( red-white marks) rising to a level war-road (Boscato, m. 2168). Turn to right (East), getting to the ruins of the ancient military hospital. From here a steep trail is rising at the bottom of the face. (30 min. from the parking)

Walking approach to West Face routes

From Ristorante Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col from Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow an obvious path ( red-white marks) rising to a level war-road. Turn to left (West), walking on a steep trail leading to the base of the face (50 min. from the parking).

Routes overview

All the routes on Torre Grande di Falzarego (UIAA Scale)

There are two main climbing walls on the tower: a steep yellow and grey SE face and a more affordable grey West Face.

Via Dibona, the top of the famous chimney
Via Dibona, the top of the famous chimney
Via Dibona on Torre Grande di Falzarego
Via Dibona on Torre Grande di Falzarego
On Alpini Route
On Alpini Route














South-East face

- Via Comici-Del Torso V, 300 m.
- Via Dibona V+, 300 m.


West Face

- Via Alpini IV, 160 m.
- South-West Ridge, Via Lussato III, IV, m. 180


Descent: The descent is along the normal route. Head to the North along a groove that leads to the fork that divides the Torre Grande from Cima Falzarego (I and II, some anchors in place). From the fork descent to the left (facing out, West) following a track and some cairns (steps II).

Torre Grande di Falzarego summit cairn and Tofana di Rozes
Summit cairn and Tofana di Rozes
The flying
The flying












 Reaching the bottom of the notch that divides the two towers follow the track down to the right (facing out, East). Cairns. From here you will be soon on the former military road (path route 412).

Red Tape

There are not particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing, but the whole area had been acknowledged inside UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE and requires the best care and respect.


Torre Piccola di Falzarego approach path

Torre Grande di Falzarego approach path

Marmolada North side

Marmolada from the WWI hospital

Torre Falzarego

Torri di Falzarego

Cinque Torri and Croda da Lago

View over Cinque Torri and Croda da Lago

Lagazuoi Piccolo and Lagazuoi Hut on the summit

Lagazuoi seen from Torre Grande"

Tofana di Rozes seen from Torre Grande di Falzarego

Tofana di Rozes seen from Torre Grande

Where to stay

- Col Gallina Hut is the nearest one, otherwise there are some hotels and huts on Passo Falzarego

When to climb

Best season goes from the middle of June to the middle of September

Meteo

Torre Grande di Falzarego map

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO
DOLOMITI METEO - VENETO

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

IV grado in Dolomiti Guidebook
Dolomiti Guidebook
Dolomiti Orientali Guidebook

“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi - Ed. Idea Montagna
“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia
“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

Map: Tabacco 03 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000