ApproachApproach over the South West Shoulder. The route is 2 cracks right of Direct Southwest. Scramble up as high as possible, to a good belay stance.
Route DescriptionThis route was first climbed by Steve Gardiner and Mark Brackin on June 22, 1980. It was a Hallmark climb for them, celebrating a Coming of Age and representing the Mark of Independence and High Quality. The first pitch of the climb has been free climbed, by Tim Toula and Paul Chamberlain. It is a challenging 5.12c stem, named Space Challenger.
Pitch 1. (C2+, 150 ft.) Follow the right hand corner, on clean, interesting aid, to a secure hanging belay
Pitch 2. ( C1,75 ft.) Keep aiding up the corner to set up a secure belay on the column top to the left.
Pitch 3. (C2+, 150 ft.) Continue up the same crack, until it ends, then traverse to the right, under 2 large roofs, turning them on their far right. You can set a good belay, on bigger pieces, about 20 ft. above the roof.
Pitch 4. (5.8, 165 ft.) Climb this Classic, "Top-of Devils-Tower-Chimney" to its end. The more big pieces that you take, the more secure you will feel. There are several "fixed" pins in this section so you might take a hammer to make sure that they are still fixed, and please take runners to tie off numerous natural chockstones.