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Gimme Shelter
Route

Gimme Shelter

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Wyoming, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.59060°N / 104.715°W

Object Title: Gimme Shelter

Route Type: Rock- Classic Aid

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: 5.7, A2+

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: bigwally

Created/Edited: Apr 9, 2001 / Apr 9, 2001

Object ID: 155506

Hits: 2646 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach


Take the NorthEast Buttress Approach to the large North Bench. Walk right ( west) across the Bench, past Everlasting, and two cracks past McCarthy North Face. This is the start of Emotional Rescue and Gimme Shelter.

Route Description


One week after he established Emotional Rescue with Chris Engle, in 1981, Frank Sanders returned and self-belay soloed Gimme Shelter.He discovered that it was more direct and actually easier than E.R.! This is a 3 Star Route if you like to aid!!!!! It is a highly enjoyable and secure climb that is mostly sure footed nailing with a few thin spots for thrills !!

Pitch 1. (145 ft., 5.7) Climb the 1st pitch of Emotional Rescue, up and over the bulge and set up your own belay.

Pitch 2 ( 120 ft., A2+) Aid up this crack. The crux is higher ; a string of tied off Knife Blades. A small tree and a horizontal crack occur at the same time. You can set a secure hanging belay there.

Pitch 3. (160 ft., A1 / A2) Now its getting good. Blades, Arrows and Angles lead ever up.The livin' is easy and the view is just fine !!. Towards the end of the rope, the crack deteriorates. Traverse left, across the TOP of a small roof and head for the Big Ledge of the McCarthy North Face Route.

Finish. ( 5.7 ) Climb to the summit via the McCarthy North Face Chimney .

Essential Gear


Standard Aid Rack, that should include about one dozen knifeblades and two dozen Arrows...oh yes, and tie-offs

Miscellaneous Info


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