Welcome to SP!  -
El Matador
Route

El Matador

 
El Matador

Page Type: Route

Location: Wyoming, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.59060°N / 104.715°W

Object Title: El Matador

Route Type: Classic Stem

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 5.10d

Route Quality: 
 - 11 Votes
 

 

Page By: bigwally

Created/Edited: Sep 23, 2001 / Sep 23, 2001

Object ID: 155796

Hits: 7020 

Page Score: 75.88%  - 7 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Approach


Take the West Face Approach up the talus slope.The route starts 2 cracks right of McCarthy West Face.

Route Description


This route was originally aided by the Legendary Fred Becky and Eric Bjornstad in September of 1967. Bob Yoho and Chick Holtkamp came to the Tower, in the summer of 1978 and found that they could free climb the route. It is a Classic and the subject of many posters, calendars and a movie. Protection is Excellent.

Pitch 1. (5.9, 80 ft.) Jam the right hand crack up to the obvious belay ledge at the base of the Long Stem. You will find a 2 Big Bolt Belay. The crux is the last 15-20 ft. of the crack.

Pitch2. (5.10d, 140 ft) Feet stem, hands and fingers can jam the left hand crack. No hard moves. No easy moves. It is simply continuous, highly systematic and Wildly Enjoyable. Belay on the column top to the left from a Big Bolt Belay.

Pitch 3. (5.8, 50 ft.) Join McCarthy West Face for a pitch and climb the Classic hand crack to yet another large column top and Big Bolt Belay.

Pitch 4.( 5.10a, 160 ft.) Climb the left hand crack until feasable to traverse to the right crack. Jam that crack through both roofs and in to the chimney above. Belay at a bolted stance. The crux is passing the first roof. ( Many parties avoid this 5.10 climbing and follow McCarthy West Face Route to the summit. Others, in search of more adventure, climb the crack to the right ( La Vaca Soliraria 5.11) and rejoin El Matador above the Grey Roofs

Pitch 5. (5.5, 70 ft.) Continue up the chimney, to its end.

Essential Gear


Standard Rack,; stoppers and Friends to #3.5

Images

Crux PitchClimber finishing El Mat P1,...EL MATADOR. Rhode Island\'s...El Matador: Pitch 2Pitch Two of El Matador,...El Matador: Pitch 1EL MATADOR. Lisa keeps a...
Ranger Chuck starting the 2nd...El Matador-Lactic acid factoryWest Face of Devils Tower