Follow the Durrance approach up and across the SouthWest Shoulder. Just south of the SouthWest Buttress Route, turn left and scramble as high as possible. The route starts one crack right of Butterfingers Route.
This Classic line was first climbed by Liana Kirk and Frank Sanders in July, 1989...." A Great Climb With A Great Partner."
Pitch 1. -Thin To Win- (140ft, 5.7, A3) Free climb, then aid up the crack that ascends the leering 2-tierd overhang on its left side. Increasingly difficult nailing leads to the inevitable RURP just over the lip of the 2nd roof. Placements then improve radically and lead you to a hanging belay at a 3 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2. -Thick To Stick- (135 ft, A2) Arrows and angles lead ever upward. The aiding is easy and the view is just fine. Higher, as the crack withers, traverse left and follow that corner to a splendid hanging belay, at a 3 bolt anchor, just under a roof.
Pitch 3. - Oh My!!- (170ft, 5.8, A1) Easy aid climbing around the roof takes you to a ledge where free climbing is obvious, though wide and awkward. Take this Classic "Top-of Devils-Tower-Chimney" to the summit. Adequate protection can be had by creative use of slings, big pieces and a hammer to reset critical "fixed" pins. This pitch is a long one. It takes all of your rope and more. Save a #4 Friend for the belay anchor.
Standard aid rack, with numerous knifeblades & Bugaboos and a few RURPS.Large pieces as tubes or big cams for the last pitch.
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