Take the Standard West Face Approach up through the talus. Turn left and walk easily across the broad shoulder beneath the West Face. Where the walking ends abruptly, put on a rope and 4th class up and right to the nice rock bench that runs from the base of Carol's Crack, extending to the right, all the way to One Way Sunset.
This rather visionary and historic route was first free climbed on June 15, 1977 by Dennis Horning and Jim Slichter. This was the first free route done in this improbable looking area of the West Face. Dennis originally climbed, what is now, the 1st pitch as 2 shorter pitches, naming them "Warm-up Pitch" and "Feather-Fingers Pitch". However he managed it, his efforts were Brilliant!!!!! This climb is 4-stars, on a 3-star scale!
Pitch 1. (150 ft., 5.10c) Climb the initial crack (identified by a fixed pin about 10 ft. up) about 35 ft. using finger jams and face holds. There you should see 2 fixed pins in the crack to the left. Clip them, as they protect your traverse to the right (5.9) to the straight-in crack. Here, the climbing begins.Move up this crack, on finger jams and locks to a secure 2-bolt belay with a small ledge.
Pitch 2. (135 ft. 5.9)** Hand Jam City.** Climb the sharp corner, up through the roof and enjoy one of the finest,straight-in, Hand Jam Pitches, of this grade ,on the Tower. There is a 2-bolt belay and a good enough ledge to stand on, and the view is just FINE!!
Pitch 3. (65 ft. 5.9) Continue up the now widening crack, over a small bulge/corner to a 2-bolt belay, with a large ledge, at the base of a long chimney.
Pitch 4. (90 ft. 5.8) *Chimney Pitch.* Climb up this steep, steep chimney to its end, where it opens onto an "Island in the Sky" belay ledge. My Favorite Ledge on the entire Tower !! It is well worth while to set a belay here and hang out to absorb the view.
Pitch 5.(not many ft. 5.2) Very easy 5th class takes you to the top.
Standard Rack with extra #4-#8 BD stoppers(small cams work well also) for the 1st pitch. Take a liberal amount of large hand-size pieces (#3, 3.5,&perhaps #4 Friends) for the 2nd pitch...and of course some of your largest (BD#4 +) cams or tubes for the Chimney Pitch. This climb takes you through all of the sizes !!!!
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