ApproachUse Northwest Buttress Approach. Bottom of route is on a nice wide flat spot next to a large tree at the base of a very large dihedral, just to the right of New Wave.
Route DescriptionPitch 1 (90 feet, 5.6) Start up the innermost crack of the largest dihedral. Easy, low angle climbing to a small belay stance with a 2 Big Bolt anchor. Small to medium wires work very well.
Pitch 2 (130 feet, 5.10b) Continue up the crack to the right of the bolts, into the inside of a right facing corner. Starts off moderately easy, gaining difficulty as it gets steeper, but good rest stances. The last 15 feet is the crux with solid finger locks, but tougher feet. Again wires work well again, especially for the bottom half. Top out on large teacher's lounge ledge with a 2 Big Bolt anchor.
Essential GearA full or double set of wires.
Small to medium cams up to a #2 or #3 Camalot.
A long extendable or similar for the top anchor to reduce the angle the rope runs over the corner of the teachers lounge ledge, and if you want to be able to see the 2nd while belaying him or her.