Take the Northeast Buttress Approach. Climb either New Wave (5.10a) or the first pitches of Patent Pending (5.5) to Teachers Lounge Ledge. The crack that you are after is the long hand crack, just to the right of three roofs. Set an anchor at its bottom and start cranking
This route was first free climbed in 1975 by Dennis Horning and Judd Jennerjohn. Judd retired from climbing shortly thereafter.Dennis hasn't quit yet !! This is a long, well protected and unrelenting hand crack. A 3-Star Classic !!!
Pitch 1. (160 ft., 5.9) Stem and finger jam until you can start burying your hands to the wrists. The finger section, near the bottom is usually considered the technical crux. The rest of the hand crack, which affords no true rests, is considered the endurance crux. Your efforts should get you to a large belay ledge on the face of the column to the left, with a 2 Big Bolt anchor.
Finish. ( 175 ft.,5.7) Continue up the wide crack to the left, to the summit. Take care for loose rock. Set your own anchor on top. All those strange markings that you see on many rocks, on that corner, are lightning strikes !! Yep they look kinda like Bullseyes; black center, ring of white around that and frequently a ring of orange lichen around that......!!!!
This is a lllooonnnggg, hand jam pitch. You can put something in every 3 feet , IF YOU TAKE 'NUFF STUFF !!! My favorite rack is : finger-size stoppers+ Friends:
2 @ #1
4 @ #2
1 @ #2.5
2 @ #3
You can always take more, hand sized stuff. The above provides a piece every 10 feet. WHEN IN DOUBT, DON'T RUN IT OUT !!!!
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