Take the West Face Approach. The route is in the middle of the face, just left of Bloodguard.
This route was originally climbed on aid by Layton Kor and Tex Bossier as the 1st pitch of their route Saber, in 1964. Years later, Jim Schlinkmann, Mateo PeePee and Carl Coy let it go free. Think that it was 1985. It is a beautiful, well protected , one pitch route. Oh yes, 3-Stars.
Pitch 1. ( 140 ft., 5.10d) ...Uh....Climb the corner system to a 2 Big Bolt hanging belay. .....but its not quite that easy. The Lower half of the climb is, oh, 5.8+ and a bit tricky, though well protected.. The upper half is more difficult and will involve using the intermittant cracks to the right, fingertip jams, face holds, stemming and some excellent cranks. The hardest is just below the anchor....of course. The route is wonderfully protected through out. Try it and you will agree that its "Like No Place Else On Earth" .
Standard Rack. #2.5 to #3.5 Friends for the lower section and all the stopper, Rocks and small TCU's that you can carry , for the top part.
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