OverviewThe Steepest Face on Devils Tower is the South West. The entire face features only one ledge, numerous roofs and distinctly tight and shallow cracks. It has long been either Appealing or Appalling, depending on Your Perspective. This route takes the crack just left of CENTENNIAL. Looking at the line from the Tower Trail, You really can't determine if the crack of the 1st Pitch is actually all there, or if it quits. Up close and personal with it, You really still can't tell if or when it might quit. We found that the crack is continuous...but just Barely.
Getting ThereHike up the Boulder Field and across the South West Shoulder. Finding the Start is the Easy Part.!!!
Route DescriptionThe Steepest Face of Devils Tower is the South West Face. It features extremely thin and shallow cracks, only one ledge on the entire face and numerous overhangs.This route is one crack to the left of the CENTENNIAL route. It was first climbed by Nate Chossmonkey and Bigwally in June, 2006. It was a 22 hour effort, from start to finish...and an Excellent Route !!
Pitch 1. A3+/A4- (160 ft.) Nail this crack for a long rope length, until it widens, and allows You a Great Belay, just below the left-most of the twin roofs. We used 40 KnifeBlades (35 tied-off) and a handful of RURPS and BEAKS. The anchors are Very Secure, long Lost Arrows and Baby Angles. One heck of a Fine Pitch.
Pitch 2. A2 (~140 ft.)Nail around the left side of the left-most roof and continue upwards to where a Good Anchor can be set. As the crack is both wider and deeper now, the aiding is Fun and not very demanding.
Pitch 3. A2,5.8 (~140 ft.)Aid a short distance until the crack widens and allows free climbing (5.8) to the Tower Top. This pitch will work Ya !!