Approach over the SouthWest Shoulder. This route is the first pitch of Acrophobia and is 3 columns right of Direct Southwest and one crack left of Butterfingers.Scramble and climb (5.6) up the corner to a great belay ledge on the right. A #2.5 Friend and some small wires povide a secure anchor for the climbing above.
This route was first free climbed by the visionary Tim Toula as he was belayed by Paul Chamberlain on August 23, 1986. Tim commented that......"This route is dedicated to the crew of the Challenger and all those folks who seek to defy gravity!!!-Remain in Flight!! Anyone looking up at this corner with thoughts of leading it is bound to say "UH-OH". An All-American Corner.".....
Pitch 1. (5.12c, 160 ft.). The corner is relentless, so you must be also. Not many jams, but a plethora of palming and stemming. The hardest spot starts about 60 ft up where protection is afforded by 3 fixed pins and a bolt. Its still hard above that, but not so outragious. The belay is a fixed pin and a bolt.
Take all of your small stoppers and RP's, with TCU's and Friends up to #1.5....oh yes and a #2.5 Friend for the initial belay.
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