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Aiguille du Génépi
Mountain/Rock

Aiguille du Génépi

 
Aiguille du Génépi

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.95200°N / 6.99442°E

Object Title: Aiguille du Génépi

County: Haute Savoie

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Winter

Elevation: 10036 ft / 3059 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Oct 6, 2013 / Mar 25, 2014

Object ID: 870648

Hits: 813 

Page Score: 84.82%  - 19 Votes 

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Overview

Aiguille du Génépi m. 3059


The icy basin of Argentière, lying in the North side of Mont Blanc group, is one of the finest and incredible mountain scenery an alpinist can see inside the massif. This magnificent glacier is a world primary destination for the ice-climbers, due to the superb ice routes running on the North faces of the mountains rising along the left orographic side of the glacier and overlooking the Refuge d’Argentière.
The sunny rocky satellites of Aiguille d’Argentière, just in front of the scenery given by the North faces of the famous triptych Triolet, Courtes and Droites, show quite a different character; they’re becoming often climbed in reason of this awesome situation and also of their high quality rock: the well known granite of Mont Blanc. Aiguille du Génépi is one of these, a pure red protogyn granite peak rising nearby the Refuge d’Argentière. The most interesting face is the East one, overlooking the shelter and the upper icy basin of the Argentière Glacier, inside a breathtaking scene.


Les Courtes and Les Droites
Les Courtes and Les Droites seen from Aiguille du Génépi

Aiguille du Génépi
Aiguille du Génépi East Face

Getting There

Road access
The starting point is the little village of Argentière m. 1240 (8 km. North-East to Chamonix-Mont Blanc)

Main road access to Argentière are:

- From Aosta Valley (Italy)
Follow the E25 Motorway towards Courmayeur, then enter the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Chamonix and Argentière (73 km. from Aosta)

- From Martigny (Switzerland)

Follow the road getting the Switzerland – France border, then to the village of Argentière (37 km. from Martigny, 5 km. from the border).

- From Geneve (Switzerland)
Follow the E25 Motorway to St. Gervais les Bains, then the RN 205 to Chamonix and Argentière




Approach to Refuge d’Argentière m. 2771

Reach the parking of Grands Montets cable-car in the village of Argentière. From here there are two possibilities to reach the Refuge d’Argentière, the starting point of all the climbs on the satellites of Aiguille d’Argentière:

 
The icy basin of Argentière seen from the moraine
The majestic Argentière icy basin seen from the moraine
 
Junction between Rognons and Argentière glaciers
Argentière and Rognons Glaciers junction




























A Take the Grands Montets cable-car to the Lognan middle station m. 1973. From here follow an unpaved road, then the trail getting the orographic left side moraine (the right hand side by walking)of Glacier d’Argentière. Walk on the moraine as far as the height of 2250 m., lightly descent on a track getting the flat start of the glacier, follow the glacier, then again the track on the moraine as far as a system of iron stairways climbing the slabs on the right of the glacier. Climb the stairways to the summit of the moraine. A good and panoramic path follows the moraine, ending at the junction between the Glacier d’Argentière and the Glacier des Rognons. Downclimb some granite blocks (yellow marks) to get the flat surface of the Glacier d’Argentière, walking at first on the right side (by walking), then in the middle, finally traversing to the left side to take a good path leading to the hut. Longer but easier approach. From 3,30 to 4 hours from the Cable-Car station.




B Take the Grands Montets cable car to the upper station of Grands Montets m. 3297. From the station walk down on the Glacier des Rognons, getting to the blocks (yellow marks) near the junction between this glacier and the Glacier d’Argentière. From here as for the previous approach. From 2 to 2,30 hours from the Cable-car upper station.




 
The approach on Glacier d’Argentière
Walking on the glacier
 
The rough surface of Glacier des Rognons
The rough surface of Glacier des Rognons


Hut

Refuge d’Argentière m. 2771 - C.A.F – 150 beds, open from February to May and from June to September. Winter-hut (30 beds), phone +330450531692

Refuge d’Argentière

Red Tape

There are no restrictions in climbing, mountaineering and hiking.

Routes overview

The fine granite wall of Aiguille du Génépi gets the sun at 8.00 o’clock in full summer and dries quickly, so it’s possible to climb soon, after the bad weather, and also in winter, doing the long approach by skies and obviously with the correct gear. Very fine routes are traced over this side of the peak, but the classic one is the Arete du Génépi or Arete Sud.


Aiguille du Génépi East face routes overview from left to right:


- Arète Sud or Arète du Génépi F5b max, 250 m. Classic route. Few equipped, friends and excentric required

- Morte de Rire 6b, 250 m. Moderne route partially equipped with bolts.

- L’Echappée belle F6a+, F5c obbl., 250 m. Classic route.




 
On Arete du Génépi
Arete du Génépi
 
The Refuge d’Argentière, a balcony over the glacier
Refuge d’Argentière




When to climb

Best season goes from the end of June to the middle of September. The sunny East face of Aiguille du Génépi is a classic destination also in winter time, doing the long approach by ski and obviously with the correct gear.

Where to stay

Refuge d’Argentière m. 2771

Chamonix is a primary mountaineering destination, offering several accomodations (hotels, huts, gites, renting rooms). Numberless campsites are situated both in the Northern and Southern ends of the town.

Main campsites:

- Camping la Mer de Glace - Les Praz (3 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450534403
- Camping les Deux Glaciers - Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450531584
- Camping les Arolles - close to the centre of Chamonix - +33(0)450531430
- Camping les Cimes - Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450535893
- Camping Glacier d'Argentière - Argentière (8 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450541736
- Camping les Marmottes - +33(0)450536124

Useful information

- Office du Tourisme de Chamonix Phone +33 0450 530024

Chamonix Mont-Blanc


- Office de la Haute Montagne de Chamonix Phone +33 0450 532208

Office de la Haute Montagne


- Cable-car informations Phone +33 0450 532275

Compagnie du MontBlanc

Meteo

METEO CHAMONIX

METEOSWITZERLAND

Guidebooks and Maps

 
Aiguille du Génépi map
 

"Monte Bianco classico & Plaisir" by Marco Romelli – Idea Montagna Editoria e Alpinismo

"6a max Savoie and Haute-Savoie" by Philippe Brass and Guillaume Vallot – Oros Ed.

Maps:

IGN 3630OT Chamonix - Massif du Mont BlancSwisstopo 1344 Col de Balme
Swisstopo 282 Martigny
Swisstopo 46 Val de Bagnes


Images