Captain Nemo, 5.6-5.12c

Overview/Approach

Two of the more popular moderate trad climbs at Vedauwoo, Friday the 13th, 5.10a****, and Middle Parallel Space, 5.9****,  are located side by side at the northeast end (Friday’s Recess) of the most popular formation in the park, the Nautilus.  With such little approach from the road and many beginner/guided climbs on the west face, the Nautilus is the last place you want to be on the weekend unless you are of the Boulder ilk, where trying to hook up romantically, along with dog humping (pun intended), becomes the primary objective of your travels.  However, there is a quieter location on the northwest corner named Captain Nemo.  You circumvent the far northern point of the Nautilus (Torpedo Tubes) to reach it.  This condensed area of the Nautilus has quite a bit of variety including a decent moderate by the name of Baalbek, 5.9*.  Despite only receiving one star in the ill written “Voo” guide, it is as good as any other classic 5.9 crack climb in the park. 

As soon as the pavement ends (at the main campground) and the forest road begins, there is a significant parking area on the left complete with restrooms.  Park here and circumvent the Nautilus on its right (east) side.  As you near the north end, Friday’s Recess will appear on your left with an obvious (stellar) corner capped by a roof, this is Friday the 13th.  Middle Parallel is just a few more meters to the north climbing the left facing corner formed by a detached pillar.  Right Parallel (part of the “Torpedo Tubes” section) climbs the opposite side of this pillar to the same fixed anchor.  Continue circumventing the far north end around obvious off width routes to the true northwest face.  Baalbek is an obvious left facing corner with a roof and chock stone in it.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face Captain Nemo

Grand Traverse- 2 Pitches-5.10c***/

Max Factor- 80’-5.11c****/

Bug Squad- 90’-5.11d PG/R**/

Baalbek- 90’-5.9*/ Despite the single star in the guide, this is one of the better 5.9 trad leads in the entire park.  Start out in the left facing corner and pull a roof followed by a chock stone.  The “Voo” guide implies this route has chimney climbing, but not really.  Pull the roof to the left and re-enter the corner.  The moves through the chock stone represent the first crux,  an athletic mantle onto the chock stone itself.  Then  steep finger/hand crack to the chains.  Single to C4#4.  Double .3-#.75.  Dow

Maxi Lash- 90’-5.10d****/

Octagon- 90’-5.12c/

Vault- 90’-5.10a/

Captain Nemo- 80’-5.10d***/

Captain Nemo’s Nemesis- 90’-5.12a/

Automotive Supply House- 60’-5.11b***/

In the Groove- 60’-5.10b/

Burning Spear- 5.11/

Horticulture- 5.6/

Stranded at Sea- 5.12*/

Cannonball- 5.9+/