Curry’s, 5.8-5.13b

Overview/Approach

(Photo Above:  Dow Leading Beef Eater, 5.10b****)

One of the first routes I climbed at Vedauwoo was a classic off-width by the name of Mainstreet (5.10****) located on what they consider the main area just west of the developed campground.  Whilst climbing Mainstreet I noticed someone climbing, on the other side of the campground, a perfect diagonal splitter on what appeared to be a very aesthetic line located on a formation named Currey’s.   Of course the next day we could not help but climb that route, Currey’s Diagonal, 5.10b****, as well as another stellar 5.10 named Beef Eater, 5.10b****.  Both of these routes are considered to be two of the best 5.10b’s in the park and are just meters apart on the same wall.  The guide references this wall as the “North Side” but in reality it faces more west than north and receives plenty of afternoon sun.  Silver Surfer, 5.9**, and Oslund’s Delight, 5.8**, are two average climbs to toss in for a half days’ worth of moderate climbing on this face.

Beef Eater needs to be done in two pitches due to a massive roof traverse off the deck.  Supposedly many skip this first pitch by traversing in from the right.  I am too much of a purest to do that and enjoyed the roof traverse and pull as much as the rest of the route.  However, the second pitch is the business of the climb via a finger sized hanging corner.  Although labeled at the same grade as Beef Eater in the guide, “The Voo”, Curry’s Diagonal is a more sustained, bold and techy lead.  It starts off a few meters vertical to gain the long left to right diagonal which crimps down to a seam at places (several fixed pins) and offers delicate to no feet through some of the traverse.  A very cool route, but full on for the grade.  Oslund’s Delight and Silver Surfer offered nothing overly memorable but were worth doing if seeking out moderates once at the wall.

From the lower camp loop road locate a small spur trail that heads for Turtle Rock Trail.  Turn right on a climbers trail well before you get to the Turtle Rock Trail.  This climbers trail ascends to the base of the long northwest face they have named Currey’s.  The other side of this formation is named Arch Stanton.  Instead of giving a name to this formation, they have named, independently, each side of it.  It is the next significant formation to the northwest of the Nautilus.  A meadow laden drainage/creek separates the two formations.

Routes Listed Right to Left as you Face the Wall (as you arrive to them via the main approach)

Beef Eater- 90’-5.10b****/ A route you have to do in two pitches due to a roof pull.    The first pitch is pulling the roof via the right ward traverse (5.9+).  Gear belay at the base of the great looking finger crack above the roof.  Tempting to build a gear belay out of C4#.5-.75, but those are also the sizes you will want to lead the splitter-like shallow corner.  Stem up to the business pulling a bulge at a hand, then back to fingers to a fixed rap above.  Double to C4#2, triple #.5-.75 if you want to sow it up.  Dow

Mad Cow Disease- 5.10dR***/ A variation of Beef Eater.

Pipeline- 5.12a/ A bolted finish to the top of the formation from the top of Silver Surfer.

North Shore- 5.13b/ Another bolted variation finish to the top of the formation from the top of Silver Surfer.

Silver Surfer- 40’-5.9**/ Interesting climb, only con is its short length.  Just to the left of Beef Eater is a right facing short squeeze chimney.  Fun climbing up it and then take a flake corner to a fixed rap.  Single rack to C4 #2.  Dow

Eleven Cent Moon- 90’-5.11dPG**/

Curry’s Diagonal- 100’-5.10b****/ I thought both of the classic 5.10b routes on this wall were somewhat sandbagged.  This techy diagonal is closer to 5.10+ than 5.10-. and other on line beta posters tend to agree.  Start up the face via a micro placement and start traversing left to right the large obvious diagonal which offers techy to no feet following a finger ramp.  Two well placed pins followed by the tree (crux is the move before reaching the tree) and then gear opens up.  Stays techy a few more places, but the finish eases way off.  Micro/wires to C4#3.  Double up from C4 #.3 to .4.  Finishes at fixed anchor and can be top roped with a 70m for sure.  Dow

Static Cling- 5.11d PG**/

Reading Raymond Chandler- 5.12a PG-R**/

Rainbow in the Dark- 5.11a/

Oslund’s Delight- 80’-5.8**/ Worth doing if at the wall.  Bushwhack to the far left side of the wall and look for a fat left facing corner.  Climb it to the top.  Single rack to C4 #2.  A few extra pieces for your gear belay at top.  Up and left and descend a meter to fixed chains on Reading Raymond for the rap.  Dow