Fall Wall, 5.5-5.11b

Overview/Approach

Fall Wall encompasses the extensive bolting area to the right of Fallout’s large right facing corner on the massive Main Area formation. Most every route involves bolted face climbing which in Vedauwoo means climbing crystals.  It is best to be on this south facing wall during cooler temps, cloudy days.  The Clamshell formation lies right below Fall Wall and most of the routes are accessed by scrambling up either side of the Clamshell.  The right end is easier.  It’s namesake route, Fall Wall, 5.9+R***, is the first route accessed on the left side atop the Clamshell.  It is an old school lead to say the least and is considered 5.10 on MP.com and I concur.  It is run out to access three rusty (2019) bolts and then requires a solid piece of gear to pull a roof via a crystal.  Several injuries have occurred on this route, down low at the R section and at the roof pull.  Once through the small roof, you find yourself on the same ledge that Fallout ends on.  There was a Ferruginous Hawks nest atop Fallout with three chicks residing in June, 2019.  From this ledge, a whole set of additional, mostly bolted, routes are located on the upper wall.  Several of these rarely get climbed despite the popularity of the formation.

Park at the Main Area parking at the dead end at the bottom of the hill in the main Vedauwoo area.  Hike up and right pass a picnic table on your right, pass the Clamshell feature on your left and scramble up the east end of the Clamshell to a platform in which to reach most of the routes. 

Left to Right, Lower Wall

Spider God- 5.11bR**/

Fall Wall- 90’-5.9+R***/ MP.com has it listed as 5.10a. It is also listed in the local guide’s collection of “scary” face climbs.  It is well deserved of that inclusion.  From the left-hand top of the Clamshell, make a runout traverse (5.8) up and left to a dish shaped flake that takes a precarious #2 and/or #3.  Start climbing sandbagged vertical face via crystals through three bolts.  The climbing gets more intricate the higher you get.  This route could be rated 5.10+ at many destinations, particularly if you are climbing exposed to the sun with crack shoes that don't hold the slimy crystals well.   Fall Out  is essentially the finish to a 5.11bR that starts lower down and left.  The crux is the last move on the face to reach a small roof that takes a bomber C4#.4 underneath, the first solid pro on the entire route since the bolts are spinners and rusted (2019).  Pull the roof with consequences if you fail via a large crystal for your right hand and left foot mantle.  Eases way up to a ledge that is even with the top of Fallout’s anchor.  Fall Wall’s anchor is to the right.  Dow

Fear and Loathing- 5.9+/

5.11 Crack- 5.8R**/

Gunga Din- 5.11a*/

Sport 5.10d***/

Easy Overhang- 5.6 A2***/

Easy Overhang Friction- 5.5**/

Cold Fingers- 5.7***/

Dropzone- 5.9***/

Upper Wall, Left to Right

Neon Cowboy- 45’-5.9+**/ An intermittent seam that is full of grass.  This route is not being cleaned/climbed.  Could be used as an extension of Fallout.

Mickey Mantle- 5.10bPG**/

Falling Half Wall- 45’-5.8PG/ Uneventful two bolt route you can use as an extension of Fall Wall to the next fixed rap on the next ledge.  Follow the sparse chicken head features through two bolts through 45'.  Make two raps to the ground.  Dow

Middle Road- 5.10aR**/

Frisby’s Bulge- 5.8 A2/

Hole- 5.7**/