Reynold’s, 5.5-5.12c

Overview/Approach

Reynold’s Hill consists of several formations, the largest of which is its namesake, Reynold’s.  This formation has some of the highest quality and varied trad lines in the park.  At the top of the list is an alcove in the middle of the south face that features three incredible 90’+ trad climbs at their grade:  Crime and Punishment, 5.9+, Penis Dimension, 5.10c, and Hung Like a Horse, 5.11-.  Even though I consider these three to be better routes, at the far-left end of the southwest face is no doubt the most popular moderate, Pooh Corner, 5.10b.  That would be due to the fact that its first pitch can be done at 5.9 whilst many would forgo the 5.10 OW top section.  One of the best 5.8 trad climbs in the park is Labyrinth, 5.8+.  It is located in a torpedo tube like chimney to the left of Crime and Punishment.

Park at a broad trailhead on the west side of Vedauwoo Road.  You get a great view of the main Reynold formation to the north, on the other side of a creek.  The area you are parking on is labeled 700 D-1 road but there is a gate across it (2019). Follow the old road as it descends north.  Take a well-worn single-track trail off the road across two creek crossings heading north for the formation.  Eventually another trail splits off right for the face.  You can scramble up to a ledge at the base of the broad south face and go either direction.  Pooh Corner anchors the west end and Moor Crossing, 5.7, the east end.

West End of the South Face, Left to Right

Pooh Corner- 90’-5.10b***/ The local guide has this route as two pitches however it is safer to do it as one as the crux of the route is off the ledge at the first fixed rap.  There is a rap anchor atop the first corner because it is only 5.9 to that point and many just climb this section of the route.  The full route requires climbing the off width above (stiff for the grade).  I used a #4, #5 and #6 on the OW.  The first corner takes all the hand pieces you want to place.  You can rap Black Star Chimney climber's right.  Maybe take a look up at this route first so you know where to find the rap once on top.   Pooh is the obvious whitish and massive right facing corner at the left end of the formation.  Dow

Howling- 5.11*/

Black Star Chimney- 50’-5.6**/ A true chimney that is easier to solo out towards the edge than squeezing in to place gear.  Dark varnished rock.  Fixed rap.  Just to the right of Pooh Corner, obvious dark chimney.  Dow

Serpentine- 5.9/

Hesitation-5.8/

Klink- 5.10a*/

Maiden- 5.6**/

Like Fun- 5.6/

More Fun- 5.6/

Cosmic Debris- 5.8+/

Labyrinth- 70’-5.8+**/ Cool torpedo tube type narrow three walled chimney.  At one point your shoulders are touching each side with a wall in front of you.  The crux is the stemming at the start, to good hands most the rest of the way.  Gear belay.  Rap Glenda’s Chimney to climber's right.  You can see the fixed rap from the ground before you start so you know where to find it.  Single rack to #3.  There is a contrived 2nd pitch (they are not stacked or go together in any logical way) up and to the right.  But it was being nested in June, 2019, by a falcon.  Dow

Connecticut Yankee- 5.10c/

Glenda’s Chimney- 5.5/

Fat Man’s Demise- 5.7/

Finger Grinder- 5.10***/

Crime and Punishment- 95’-5.9+***/ Could compete for best 5.9/5.10a trad route in the park.  A perfect hand sized crack in a flake at the left side of a beautiful alcove, which is home also to Penis Dimension and Hung Like a Horse, three outstanding routes side by side by side.  Single to #4, double 2’s and 3’s.  No real crux as much as it is sustained.  Gets wider in a few places than hands, but there is always 5.9 type features helping you through those sections.  Just outstanding.  Starts out hands and feet but offers some stemming higher up.  Shares fixed rap with Penis Dimension.  Dow

Climbs of Passion- 5.11c*/

Penis Dimension- 95’-5.10c**/ Not sure how this is not also a 3-star route in the local guide.  The crux is short and specific about half way up, through a wide section.  Either invert or grab a flake arete out left and re-enter the crack above.  Both involve some heal toe to ascend.  Like Crime, great protection, take all you want to place.  Single to #4, double up on a few medium pieces.  Shared fixed rap anchor with Crime and Punishment.  Dow

Hung Like a Horse- 95’-5.11-***/

I’d Rather be in Philadelphia- 5.12c**/

Coffee Grinder- 5.9/

Ain’t Crack- 5.8**/

Guide Book Dilemma- 5.9/

Moor Crossing- 5.7**/

Nexus- 5.7/

Horror Show- 5.9/

Barf Bucket Traverse- 5.6/

Tombstone Crack- 5.8/