Spelunk Walls, 5.2-5.12a

Overview/Approach

Spelunk Walls, as listed in the local guide, refers to an attractive formation located well to the northeast of Reynolds Hill.  We combined Spelunk, Parade Rock and Back Side for a full day of 5.9-5.11 climbing and therefore parked as for Reynolds.  However, if just making the direct trek for Spelunk and Parade, you could shorten your approach by parking further north along Vedauwoo road.  My directions are from the main Reynolds Hill parking trail head.  

The local guide divides this formation into left and right walls but lists a total of only seven routes, most developed along the broad southwestern face.  Two must-do moderates include Wrist Ranger, 5.8+***, and Paper Training, 5.9+.  Although the local guide gives zero recommendation to Paper Training, it is every bit as good as Wrist Ranger.  These two routes are relatively next to each other on the right side of the southwest face, directly across (east) a grassy valley from Soft Parade, 5.11c***, on Parade Rock. Both are excellent trad climbs at the grade despite being relatively short.

Park as you would for Reynolds at 700-D off of Vedauwoo Road.  The road is closed at a gate.  Hike a mile or two towards the main Reynold formation’s south face.  Circumvent Reynolds to the left by staying in the meadow on the trail.  Start gaining elevation and look to tie into a well established trail at a T.  Turn right and you will pass right below Rest Parade and Soft Parade on Parade Rock.  This same trail makes the base of Spelunk in short order after crossing a grassy meadow.  There are shortcuts available if heading directly for Spelunk, but not on established trails.

Routes Listed Left to Right on the Southwestern Face

Sky Shot- 5.11a/ (located on the tower anchoring the northwestern end)

Grand Central- 5.6/

Spelunk- 5.2/

Wrist Ranger- 40’-5.8+***/ Yet another of many downgraded routes by the most recent published guide that seems to be ego driven.  It is definitly in line for being a 5.9 at the Voo. Fun, but relatively short, hands to fists up a crack that splits a dike.  You step on the dike on the left side of the crack and really don’t use it again, but it adds character to the route.  Could place several #4’s or bump one and use the slanting cracks out left for medium pieces.  Steep, but secure climbing to a step out right finish and fixed rap.  Extend for top rope.  Single to #4 (I placed three pieces total).  Double #4’s if you are at your grade limit.  Dow

Paper Training- 30’-5.9+/ For some weird reason the guide gives this route zero stars, when in reality it is every bit as good as Wrist Ranger, but no more difficult (whole grade difference in the book?  MP.com has them both at 5.9 and I concur). They are only 30 meters apart, Wrist Ranger on the left, Paper on the right.  Obvious left facing corner to a fixed rap.  The crux is pulling the small roof by reaching deep into the above void for a hand jam.  Single to #4.  I placed three pieces.  Dow

Chuckles- 5.12a*/

The Old Dog’s New Trick- 5.11c***/ (more of a boulder problem at the far southeastern end).