Coke Bottle, 5.6-5.13a

Overview/Approach

The Coke Bottle wall is sandwiched between two popular destinations, Walt’s and Fall walls, on the easily accessed south facing “Main Area” in Vedauwoo.  The Main Area is a relatively large sized formation just to the north of the dead end picnic area/trail head on the paved road that continues past the official campground.  Coke Bottle is unique in that it offers several large horizontal roofs mixed in with a few wide cracks from bottom to top.  The most sought after of those wide Cracks is Mainstreet, 5.10a****.  Of the routes I have climbed at Vedauwoo, Mainstreet is one of the few I thought that was sandbagged for the grade.  However, a competent 5.10 off width climber will have no issues.  Mainstreet would be a classic off width pitch at any climbing destination.  Add in its accessibility, I am surprised to hear so little about it.  I think part of that stems from the Boulder, CO gym crowd spending most of their time socializing and mixing it up at the Nautilus (ad nauseam).  But if you are at the Voo to climb OW’s, you need to get on this one.  Dollywood, 5.10****, to the left of Mainstreet, is another interesting climb at the grade.  A short bolted traverse via large chickenhead but with a punchy crux at the 2nd clip. Thomas-McGary Chimney, 5.6***, to the right, is a popular easy climb for beginners.  Fallout, 5.9****, shares the same start and is an excellent route at the grade with a lot of variety, but had an active Ferruginous hawks nest atop it in June, 2019.  It should have been closed as these are endangered hawks.

Take the paved road past the campground.  Take a left at an intersection and park at the dead end which is a popular picnic area (restrooms).  Hike up the hill, trending right, to the large roofs in the middle of the formation.  Mainstreet starts on the right side of these roofs in a clean off width corner from bottom to top.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the Wall

The 12^th of Never- 5.10c/

Boardwalk- 5.11b***/

Light from Blue Horses- 5.11c**/

Bell Crack- 5.11a**/

Partner of the Weak- 5.13a/

Dollywood- 35’-5.10****/ MP.com has it as 5.10c and I concur.  A unique bolted traverse route that gets your attention.  Start up Mainstreet and clip the (old-2019) lower anchor.  Traverse left from there making the first pro bolt clip on Dollywood.  Center under the 2^nd bolt and make the crux move mantle on a polished large chickenhead up to a balance stance and clip the 2^nd bolt.  Then a straight traverse, slightly up and left clipping bolts and stemming features at your feet to the hidden anchor around the arete to a fixed free hanging rap.  Cool route, worth doing.  Dow

Mainstreet- 200’-5.10a****/ This is one of the many classic off width climbs you here about at Vedauwoo.  The beta in the guide (The Voo, which is one of the worst guidebooks on the market, for any area) is misleading.  In the text the author states you can walk a #5 up the route.  Then right below it he gives a gear recommendation of two #6’s.  You can walk a C4#6 up the route and clip three bolts along the way.  #5’s will not be helpful on this route.  A pair of #6’s make it a more secure climb than one.  Not much need for any other cams but those two pieces plus clipping three bolts through 200’ of OW.  The start is relatively easy ground to clip one of a pair of bolts (2018).  Then the #6 crack starts and is strenuous for a good length of the route.  Up and to the next bolts you find some features on the left wall for your feet therefore right side in became the theme.   A lot of heal toe and arm bars with a few chicken wings get you to a narrow ledge with a fixed rap out right.  Relatively easy finish gets to the top of the formation with a fixed rap out right.  Two 70m single rope raps, watch your end on the 2nd one.  Double C4#6’s with two slings and three draws.  Full on at the grade.  Dow

Never Ending Story- 5.11bPG***/

Revenge of Nothing- 5.11b**/

Space Oddity- 5.12a/

Young Guns- 5.13a/

Thomas McGary Chimney- 140’-5.6***/ Climb up the obvious massive right facing chimney to the right of Mainstreet’s massive corner.  If you stay to the outside, it is Fallout, 5.9****.  If you burrow into the squeeze, it is Thomas McGary.  You can barely see daylight at the top.  Once you burrow in, you have have old slung pro (2019) and a chockstone and plenty of other gear opportunities. A competent leader does not need all the big bros the local guide talks about.  Dow

Fallout- 100’-5.9****/ An excellent unique route for the grade at Vedauwoo.  Start up Thomas McGary Chimney.  Follow the runnel to the right of the corner  with a bolt and several large chicken heads.  Stem your right foot out against the runnel and your back against the OW corner past the bolt with good varied gear in the corner as it varies from a few hand constrictions to OW.  In June, 2019, there was a pair of nesting Ferruginous (threatened) hawks at the top of the route, with three juveniles.  Most places would close the route, but we had zero knowledge of this nest until I led it.  Rap anchor is right there at the nest. 70m makes the rap no worries.  Dow

Mystic Psychosis- 5.8***/