ApproachTake the Standard West Face Approach up through the talus. Turn left and walk easily across the broad shoulder beneath the West Face. Where the walking ends abruptly, put on a rope and 4th class up and right to the nice rock bench that runs beneath Carols Crack and extends to the right all the way to One Way Sunset.
Route DescriptionThis route was first free climbed by Bob Yoho, Carol Black, Chick Holtkamp and Jeff Baird on August 19, 1978. This was less than two weeks after Yoho and Holtkamps First Free Ascent of El Matador(5.10d). This was only the 4th 5.11 route established on the Tower !!!!
The route starts in a well defined (read obvious) right-facing corner.
Pitch 1. (100 ft. 5.10a) Climb the corner, using finger and hand jams to a secure, 2-bolt belay on the right face. The pitch is straight forward and well protected. There are harder spots at the beginning and end of the pitch.
Pitch 2. (160 ft. 5.11a) Follow the now narrowing , but sharp edged crack up to another secure 2 bolt belay. The climbing is a long, long, long and consistant series of positive, yet strenuous, finger-locks. There are few, if any, rests. Thankfully the crack widens to hand-size near its end. If there is a crux, it is near the middle of the pitch, where the crack tightens and some clever footwork helps alot. This is a very well protected pitch.
Pitch 3. (65 ft. 5.6/5.7) The crack now widens dramatically, and accepts hands, fists, arms and shoulders. Climb up to several ledges on the right and set your own anchor.
Pitch 4. (140 ft 5.6/5.7) Climb what is now a chimney, over a bulge and up through much easier territory, to the top. Take care with loose rocks.
Essential GearPitch 1 is very well protected, accepting about any kind of finger to hand size pieces that you have. It can be easily aided at C1....Thats how well protected it is!!!!
Pitch 2 will happily accept BD stoppers #4-7. If you take 5 of each size you can put them all in. All of your placements can be dropped into very obligingly long V-slots, where the nut is easily placed and happily buried to the point where there is no real need for double biners or quick-draws on them. I individually rack my stoppers on single biners and just drop them in as I go.Don't forget some hand size pieces for the pitch's end!!
Pitches 3&4 Big pieces and a practiced, secure chimney/offwidth technique will keep you safe and happy !!!!