Hannibalturm

Overview

Hannibalturm 2882 m

The Hannibalturm is a stunning rock tower belonging to the Uri Alps Group, located close to the Galenstock. The rock tower is a fine goal to climb multi-pitch in the Urner Alps in central Switzerland. You can only reach the summit by climbing, not by hiking/scrambling. Most routes have been opened or rebolted by Jurg von Kanel and crew, the writer of the Schweiz Plaisir guide books. Apart from the Hannibalturm there are many other excellent multi pitch routes and crags close by, as the Klein and Gross-Furkahorn, Gross Bielenhorn, Chli Bielenhorn and Grauewand. The Hannibalturm is renowned in reason of the easy access and the not too long routes. The climbs are of moderate to serious difficulty however. The Hannibalturm offers excellent granit climbs of about 200m. The granite is bombproof, the same can be said about the bolts and belay stations. The climbing involves a little bit of everything: slabs, roofs, dihedrals, cracks, flakes, you name it. The wall is South facing. As a result the tower is accessible early in the season and you can climb in the sun for most of the day.

Getting there

By car you can reach the Furkapass 2431 m. From the west you can either travel from Brig (Wallis) or from Meiringen (Berner Oberland) to Gletsch and from there to the pass. From the east you travel from Andermatt to the pass. Always chek if the Furka pass is open or closed. Once you have reached the Furkapass/Furka Blick you start behind the houses. You walk to the north on the trail to the Sidelenhut 2708m. After 1 hour you go left, leaving the trail to the hut. You cross scree fields and descend a little to reach the Sidelen Glacier (covered by scree). You cross the glacier at an altitude of approx. 2650-2700m to reach the base of the Hannibalturm from the right. Just before you reach the base some cravesses are present, but passing them should not be a problem. All routes start at the base of the tower and are marked by a small picture and name painted on the rock. 1h30' from the pass. Another option is to stay overnight in the Sidelenhut, reached in 1h15', from there it is 30' down to the base of the tower. Note that in late spring and early summer the glacier can still be covered in snow so you should bring appropriate gear like crampons and an ice axe.

Route: Conquest of Paradise

Conquest of Paradise - French scale

Summit altitude: 2882 m
Difficulty: 6a+ max - French scale
Climbing length: 180 m
Equipment: equipped belays, bolts along the pitches
Exposure: South
Starting point: Furkha pass or Sidelenhutte
First ascent: Beni Wenger and Jürg von Känel in 1995

A wonderful route in a real mountain environment,  even if just over an hour's walk. The quality of the granite is superlative

Approach

From the parking area near the Furka refuge shortly before the Furka pass a trail leads to the Sidelen Hut. Follow this one for 40 minutes, then turn to left and follow a less marked trail to get the glacier, heading to the Hannibal tower. The glacier is small, strongly reduced and partially covered with rocks. The traverse doesn't offer any difficulties (we have not noticed signs of open crevasses). The beginning of the route is marked with the name (see profile picture).

Route report

L1 5c    Slab  and then traverse to the right

L2 5c    Prominence, crack and then small overhang, belay on the left

L3 5a    Slab towards the left and then prominence on the right until the belay

L4 5c+  Slabs, short walls and belay on the left (the one on the right is of another route that goes vertical on a crack)

L5 6a+ (or 5c+ with 2 points of help) Crux pitch, characterized by a traverse to the left and a delicate slabs, but well protected, then on the right small walls to a comfortable ledge

L6 4c   Easy small wall (don't take the left gully) up to the summit, where you will find the HANIBANK waiting for you, an incredible red bench with a sign of the Swiss postal service that was transported to the summit arms and that allows you to enjoy the panorama in a very relaxed position (Furkahorn, Galenstock, Bielenhorner, Sidelen lake and glacier, etc.).

Descent: abseiling the route.

Essential gear

The useful gear to climb is: 10 quickdraws and a 70 m rope or two 50m ropes,  nuts from 5 to 9 for possible integration

Other Routes

Hannimoon, 6a+, 5 pitches

Elefantenrussel, 6b, 5 pitches Kassestrurtze, 6c, 6 pitches

All the routes are 200 meters long. The descent can be done by using the specially equiped abseil-piste on Conquest of Paradise (recommended) or by abseiling your ascent route. Additional info can be found on the routes pages (if one exists) or in the Schweiz Plaisir Ost and Topoguide Band I guidebooks.

Red Tape

No permits required. You should always check if the Furka pass is open.

Hut 

Sidelenhut  2708 m

Situation: Uri Alps, above Furkhapass and at foot of Galenstock Open: from June to September  Winter-shelter: no Guardian: Walter e Gertrud Gisler Hut phone: 0041 41 887 02 33 o 0041 79 532 29 58 Mobile: 079 532 29 58 Mail:info@sidelen-huette.ch

Camping

Officially camping is not allowed. However, people often camp near the parking on the pass or they camp at 1/2 hour walk from the pass to the hut. Just make sure your tent is gone in the morning.

Meteo

Meteo Switzerland

Guidebooks and maps

Schweiz Plaisir Ost

Swiss map 1:25000: sheet 1231 "Urseren".

External Links

My Switzerland - Furka Pass