Chli Bielenhorn 2940 m
Chli Bielenhorn is a beatifull though small mountain near the Furkapass in Switzerland. It's the smaller brother of Gross Bielenhorn. Both these granite peaks, separated by a saddle named Untere Bielenlücke and located in the vicinity of Furkapass in Switzerland, belong to the Uri Alps Group. The towers Gross and Chli Kamel are also present on this page, they are located between the Gross and Chli Bielenhorn. Chli Bielenhorn is sometimes spelled Chly Bielenhorn, chli/chly means little.
Climbing can be done on the beatifull raw granite in grades ranging from UIAA II to V. A ski ascent is possible from the N-side in winter.
From Andermatt, a little town at St.Gotthard tunnel northern exit, follow the road to Furkapass (m.2429), reaching Hospental and Realp. Stop about 2,5 km. after the small settlement of Tiefenbach along the route to Furka Pass, in a pull-out near a little river before the road is turning left (m. 2279).
Walking access to the South face routes
- From the pull out along the Furkapass road it starts a good trail, leading to the Sidelen Hut; to rise directly to the wall without reaching the hut, at a terrace after half an hour of walking, leave the main trail to the hut on the left-hand side and rise along a steep trail heading toward the obvious wall, crossing the Nepali Highway Trail. Follow it for a few meters, then rise along a steep blocks’ slope, leading to the bottom of the wall. (1 hour from the pull-out).
- Approach is possible also from the Albert-Heim hütte (1 h from Tiefenbach town on the Furkapass) or from the Sidelenhütte (1 h from Hotel Belvedere on the Furkapass).
The West ridge and the routes on Kamels are best approached from the Sidelenhütte
EB, 15 min. from the Untere Bielenlücke. Used for descent.
W-Grat or Schildkrötengrat
Very nice alpine rock tour for beginners. Difficulties don't exceed III but for a few meters A1. Start in the scharte/divide between the ridge and the first ridgetower as seen frow W. Famous for the rock in the form of a turtle balancing on a ridgetower, hence the name.
S-Wand, variante Bächli
First ascent: H. Bächli, R. Hugentobler & D. Kienast, 1966.
The route follows a double dihedral. Entry is 20m left of the dihedral.
TD, F6a+ (or F6a with one A0 move), 220 m 4h.
First ascent: Mottet & Perrenoud, 1957.
Entry on the crack that leads to a chimney. Few artificial passages.
Visit the Albert-Heim hütte (2542m) website for topos. Follow 'Sommer' and 'Klettern' links.
Descent from Chli Bielenhorn: from the summit head toward NW, reaching the Untere Bielenlucke, the a rocky saddle between Chli Bielenhorn and the characteristic monolith named Kamel. From here scramble on a scree gully heading toward the well visible Sidelen Hut.
This is the E tower.
V+, A2, 3 pitches.
Descent: 40m abseil on N-side
This is the W tower.
IV-V-, 4 pitches
Descent: 20m abseil
None at the moment, the Furkapass however is closed from November to May.
Open from mid-june till mid-october. Reachable from the Furkapass in 1h.
Albert-Heim hütte (2542m)
Open from mid-june till mid-october. Reachable from the Furkapass in 1,5h. Winterroom is available.
Realp Camping (1510m):
Open in from june till september.
Best time july, august, september and if the weather permits, october. If the snow has melted early june is also possible.
Ascent on skis in the regular ski-touring season.