Chli Bielenhorn

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Uri, Switzerland, Europe
Elevation:
9645 ft / 2940 m
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Page By:
Chli Bielenhorn
Created On: Dec 7, 2005
Last Edited On: Sep 11, 2018

Overview


Chli Bielenhorn 2940 m

Chli Bielenhorn  is a beatifull though small mountain near the Furkapass in Switzerland. It's the smaller brother of Gross BielenhornBoth these granite peaks, separated by a saddle named Untere Bielenlücke and located in the vicinity of Furkapass in Switzerland, belong to the Uri Alps Group.  The towers Gross and Chli Kamel are also present on this page, they are located between the Gross and Chli Bielenhorn. Chli Bielenhorn is sometimes spelled Chly Bielenhorn, chli/chly means little.

Climbing can be done on the beatifull raw granite in grades ranging from UIAA II to V. A ski ascent is possible from the N-side in winter.


Getting There

Road access

From Andermatt, a little town at St.Gotthard tunnel northern exit, follow the road to Furkapass (m.2429), reaching Hospental and Realp. Stop about 2,5 km. after the small settlement of Tiefenbach along the route to Furka Pass, in a pull-out near a little river before the road is turning left (m. 2279).

Chli Bielenhorn starting trail
Chli Bielenhorn starting trail

Walking access to the South face routes

- From the pull out along the Furkapass road it starts a good trail, leading to the Sidelen Hut; to rise directly to the wall without reaching the hut, at a terrace after half an hour of walking, leave the main trail to the hut on the left-hand side and rise along a steep trail heading toward the obvious wall, crossing the Nepali Highway Trail. Follow it for a few meters, then rise along a steep blocks’ slope, leading to the bottom of the wall. (1 hour from the pull-out).

- Approach is possible also from the Albert-Heim hütte (1 h from Tiefenbach town on the Furkapass) or from the Sidelenhütte (1 h from Hotel Belvedere on the Furkapass).

The West ridge and the routes on Kamels are best approached from the Sidelenhütte 

Routes

Normal Route
EB, 15 min. from the Untere Bielenlücke. Used for descent.

W-Grat or Schildkrötengrat
Very nice alpine rock tour for beginners. Difficulties don't exceed III but for a few meters A1. Start in the scharte/divide between the ridge and the first ridgetower as seen frow W. Famous for the rock in the form of a turtle balancing on a ridgetower, hence the name.

S-Wand, variante Bächli
V, 4h.
First ascent: H. Bächli, R. Hugentobler & D. Kienast, 1966.
The route follows a double dihedral. Entry is 20m left of the dihedral.

Chli Bielenhorn - S wall
Chli Bielenhorn - S wall Perrenoud


S-Wand, Perrenoud route


TD, F6a+ (or F6a with one A0 move), 220 m  4h.
First ascent: Mottet & Perrenoud, 1957.
Entry on the crack that leads to a chimney. Few artificial passages.

Visit the Albert-Heim hütte (2542m) website for topos. Follow 'Sommer' and 'Klettern' links.





Descent from Chli Bielenhorn: from the summit head toward NW, reaching the Untere Bielenlucke, the a rocky saddle between Chli Bielenhorn and the characteristic monolith named Kamel. From here scramble on a scree gully heading toward the well visible Sidelen Hut.  

Chli Bielenhorn, the descent's side
Chli Bielenhorn, the descent side















Gross Kamel
This is the E tower.
V+, A2, 3 pitches.
Descent: 40m abseil on N-side

Chli Kamel
This is the W tower.
IV-V-, 4 pitches
Entry: S-side
Descent: 20m abseil 

Red Tape

None at the moment, the Furkapass however is closed from November to May.

Huts

The Sidelenhutte.
The Sidelenhütte


Sidelenhütte (2708m)
Open from mid-june till mid-october. Reachable from the Furkapass in 1h.







Albert Heim Hut
Albert Heim Hütte

Albert-Heim hütte (2542m)
Open from mid-june till mid-october. Reachable from the Furkapass in 1,5h. Winterroom is available.

Camping 

Realp Camping (1510m):
Open in from june till september.

When To Climb

Best time july, august, september and if the weather permits, october. If the snow has melted early june is also possible.
Ascent on skis in the regular ski-touring season.

Meteo

MeteoSwitzerland

Chli Bielenhorn
Chli Bielenhorn


Guidebooks and maps