La Chandelle is one of the "satellite" peaks surrounding the Grand Capucin, together with the Trident and the Clocher.
This thin and elegant aiguille would certainly be more famous if not hidden by the Trident when observed from the Glacier du Géant.
The rock is excellent. The routes are rather difficult (TD+ to ED+) but it is easy to place gear. A few pitons and even some bolts are placed where friends or nuts cannot be used.
There are 3 main routes in the South-East face:
- the Bonatti-Gallieni route in the middle (1960, EDinf, 200m)
- Tabou on the left (ED)
- Ligne blanche on the right (ED+)
1. from the aiguille du midi cable or from the refuge des cosmiques:
from the bottom of the South face of the Aiguille du Midi, walk across the the glacier du Géant, reach the Pointe Lachenal, turn right (E) below the E-face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. You go along this E-face of the Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey. Reach the bottom of the Grand Capucin.
When looking at the Grand Capucin, you can see the characteristic shape of the Trident. Pass round the Trident, the Chandelle is immediatly behind.
2. from the refuge Torino or the cable of Pointe Hellbronner
walk down to the glacier du géant, then turn left in the direction of the Combe Maudite. The Grand Capucin is just in front of you. The Trident and la Chandelle are on the left of it.
MAP: Institut Géographique National. 1:25000 no. 3630 OT (Chamonix)
No restriction or fees
When To Climb
Mostly in summer. Late Spring is also nice
Camping in Chamonix
Refuge des Cosmiques
Météo France in Chamonix: +33/836680274
Office de Haute Montagnes (OHM)/Chamonix: www.ohm-chamonix.com/
Bureau des Guides in Chamonix: +33/450530088.