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Monte Nabois Grande / Veliki Nabojs
Mountain/Rock

Monte Nabois Grande / Veliki Nabojs

 
Monte Nabois Grande / Veliki Nabojs

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Julian Alps, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.44164°N / 13.48915°E

Object Title: Monte Nabois Grande / Veliki Nabojs

Elevation: 7588 ft / 2313 m

 

Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Sep 25, 2005 / Aug 21, 2007

Object ID: 154727

Hits: 7741 

Page Score: 87.76%  - 25 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical structure: Eastern Alps > Julian Alps > Vis and Montaz group.

Monte Nabois Grande / Veliki Nabojs is the northern neighbour of Vis/Iof Fuart (2666m). Veliki Nabojs is the huge mountain above the valley Val Saisera (Zajzera). From the north side (above the valley Zajzera) is Veliki Nabojs hardly approachable because of wild faces and you can be easily lost. From the north side, from the distance Veliki Nabojs looks like the same mountain of 350 meters higher Vis, but if we look it from the west side is like a beautiful and bold pyramide on the left side of Vis. To the south side is with the notch Nabojsova skrbina (Sella nabojs) (1970m) connected with Vis. This notch is from the east side easily approachble. On the west side of the notch, down to the valley Spranja (Spragna) there is a huge ravine. On the north side just above the valley Zajzera it has a “little brother” Monte Nabois piccolo (1691m).

The normal approach on Veliki Nabojs goes from the east side to the notcch Nabojsova skrbina and then over the south slopes and the east ridge to the top. The route is marked and not very hard.

The first ascend was made by dr. Julius Kugy in the year 1884.


View from Veliki Nabojs

The view from Veliki Nabojs is amazing on all sides. Let the photos show.

Getting There

The approach valley to the Western Julian Alps will probably be the highway through Val Canale (Udine - Tarvisio).



To approach Veliki Nabojs, you enter the beautiful Valbruna (Zajzera) valley some 10 km west from Tarvisio. You have two possibilities: From the east side by the hut Rif. Pellarini (1499m) or from the west side from the valley Spranja.

Maps:

Tabacco: Alpi Giulie Occidentali Tarvisiano. No: 019, 1:25000 (very good!).


Routes overview


Jof Fuart / Vis and its close neighbourhood with marked routes.

For reaching the summit of Veliki Nabojs we have two possibilities:
East approach. From the valley Zajzera, by the hut Rif. Pellarini, then from the east side to the Nabojsova skrbina and then over south slopes and east ridge to the top. Easier.
West approach. From the valley Zajzera, over the valley Spranja, by the bivouac D. Mazzeni, then over the route Carlo Chersi to the notch Nabojsova skrbina and over the south slopes and east ridge to the top. Harder.
East ridge. Easy climbing UIAA I.


Red Tape

There are no limitations.

When To Climb

Summer and autumn are the best seasons. In Julian Alps in summer a stable weather usually starts somewhere in July and months from August to October are the best.

The normal route can be also done with the skies but this is very hard descent, only for good skiers. In Winter we muse be also careful on avalanches.


Camping

West of Veliki Nabojs Valbruna Valley ends with Spranja. On the upper part of it Bivacco Dario Mazzeni, 1630m lies. It can be reached from the end of the road in 2h.

Similarly on the eastern part of Veliki Nabojs in Zabniska krnica on the altitude of 1500m Rif. Pellarini (hut) lies. It can be reached from the road in Valbruna in 2h. Tel.: 0428.60135, opened from June 20th to September 20th.

In valleys there is a camping place near Rabelj Lake and also one near Tarvisio.

In Val Canale there is a camping place near Tarvisio.


Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
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Vid PogachnikEast ridge approach

Vid Pogachnik

Voted 10/10

Marijana C. & Marko K. are writing (july 30th, 2006) that the lower part of the East ridge (from pellerini hut) is partially marked but that there are many paths, so the route is hard to find. They followed it till the altitude od 2050m.



The ledge around the whole N face of Nabois is a climbing route, which starts on the East ridge on some 2050m and finishes just below the Nabojs Notch or on the West ridge, some 1950m. Two places UIAA II-III, many other places I-II. Very exposed, on the hardest places bad, crunchy rock. With belaying on key points at least 4-5 hours.
Posted Aug 9, 2006 4:19 pm

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Images