OverviewSpik nad Nosom / Foronon del Buinz, 2531m is the mountain in the ridge that comes from Iof di Montasio / Montaz, 2754m from the NW side over some other mounatins and continues in the SE direction to Spik nad Spranjo / Modeon del Buinz, 2558m and then falls down over the east face to the notch Skrbina Prenje Spranje / Lavinal dell'Orso, 2138m. Here starts to the NE side Vis group.
The summit is high and it is nicely seen from all the valleys that surrounds them. On the south side from the meadow Pecol, 1502m and from the Sella Nevea (Nevejsko sedlo) pass, 1142 m. We have very nice view on it from the Kanin group on the south. In skiing down the Sella Nevea skiing area we can see directly on his big south grassy and rocky slopes that fall from the main ridge more then 1000 meters to the beauitufl forest below them. From te north side, from the valley Valbruna (Zajzera) we can enjoy the view on his 800 meters high north face. This face united with the north face of Spik nad Spranjo / Modeon del Buinz form the big wall at the end of the valley Zajzera.
Over its ridges (the west and east)goes the famous ferrata Ceria Merlone which is in the nice weather a beautiful airy and outlookable route. But this is not easy route. It is hard ferrata which is not for everybody. It goes over the airy shelves and defeats some airy faces with help of iron cables. From the start to the end of ferrata you will need around 3-4 hours. This time is only for the ferrata. Here you must to add up the approach to the start and then descent from the end. On this trip we will see many ruins from the First World War.
Many climbers cross this mountain when they climb the ferrata Ceria Merlone but it is also nice goal if you climb only on its summit. The view from the top is breathtaking. The mighty west face of Vis / Jof Fuart, 2666m, the long ridge to the Montaz / Iof di Montasio, 2754m and the whole Julian Alps.
Getting ThereThe approach valley to the Western Julian Alps will probably be the highway through Val Canale (Udine - Tarvisio). But of course it doesn't reach the heart of this mountain group.
The map of the area.
1. For the south ascent you must deter from the highway in Chiusaforte and travel through Rakolana (Reklanica, Raccolana) valley to Sella Nevea (Nevejsko sedlo) pass, 1142 m. This pass can also be reached from Tarvisio towards south through Valle Rio di Lago (Jezerska dolina). On Sella Nevea you turn towards north-west and drive by a narrow alpine road to Malga Pecol, 1520 m.
2. For the north ascent you deter from the highway some seven kilometers west of Tarvisio and drive south into the Valbruna (Zajzera) valley. The road ends on an alpine meadow on the altitude of 1000 m.
Tarvisio and Valle Rio di Lago (Jezerska dolina) can also be reached from east, from Slovenia (from the Sava valley or over the Predel (Predil) pass and of course also from north, from Austria (from Villach).
For some tourist information see the Tarvisio tourist page.
- Tobacco Map 019 - 1:25000 - Alpi Giulie Occidentali Tarvisiano.
- Julijske Alpe - Zahodni del (Western part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000.
Routes OverviewMarked routes:
1. From Rif. Brazza (hut) over the west ridge. This route is marked and goes over the first part of the famous ferrata Ceria Merlone. Description.
2. From the valley Zajezera / Saissera over Forcella Lavinal dell Orso / Skrbina sprednje Spranje (notch), 2138m. This the route that starts from the north and goes over marked route to the notch and then over the east part of ferrata Ceria Merlone to the top.
3. From the valley Valle Rio di Lago (Jezerska dolina) over Forcella Lavinal dell Orso / Skrbina sprednje Spranje (notch), 2138m. This route goes from the south side to the notch and then also over the east part of ferrata Ceria Merlone to the summit.
4. Ferrata Ceria Merlone. This ferrata starts from the south slopes of Spik Hude Police / Cima di Terrarossa, 2420m and then cross the whole ridge of Spik nad Nosom / Foronon del Buinz, 2531m and Spik nad Spranjo / Modeon del Buinz, 2558m to the notch Forcella Lavinal dell Orso / Skrbina sprednje Spranje, 2138m. Amazing ferrata that goes over airy ridge and shelves.
For the climbers that do not like to climb over marked route I propose to climb and scramble over the south steep grassy slopes all the way to the summit. Description.
There are so many climbing routes in north face but they are popular only in Winter because of not good rock in snowless season. I did not mention all of them. I have mention only one that is very popular in Winter. But there are so many lines yet to climb.
Via Alberto. V/5+, M5+, 800m, 7 hours. First climbed by Luca Vuerich and Guido Candolini, 15.2.2004. Required gear: some wedges, butterflies and 6-7 ice screws.
No limitations or special permits.
When To Climb
The best and the easiest time is in the snowless season. That is in Summer and Autumn. But also in Winter there are some nice routes for climbing. But be careful because of avalanches and the loneliness of north face. In snow season there is verz popular to ski down the south slopes and face.
Some huts and bivouacs.
- Rif. Brazza, 1660 m (parking place just below it).
- Rif. Attillio Grego (parking place 400 m below it in Valbruna or on Sella di Somdogna, 1398m, 15 minutes away), 1395 m.
- Bivacco D. Mazzeni (bivouac), 1630m, below the north face.
Then a lot of camping places you can find in the valleys around Vis and Montaz group.