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Vis / Jof Fuart
Mountain/Rock

Vis / Jof Fuart

 
Vis / Jof Fuart

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Julian Alps - Western part, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.43202°N / 13.49093°E

Object Title: Vis / Jof Fuart

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata

Season: Summer, Fall

Elevation: 8746 ft / 2666 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Sep 10, 2003 / Aug 29, 2013

Object ID: 151854

Hits: 13641 

Page Score: 87.76%  - 25 Votes 

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What's New On This Page

November 15th, 2004 - Added the Routes Overview section and a route from Forcella di Riofreddo.

Overview

Remark: The name of the mountain is pronounced Vish. (Not like in English word 'wish', the first v is pronunced more like in 'vehicle'.)

Western Julian Alps have two great, very dominant mountains: Montaz and Vis. The latter is a strong, huge castle and no wonder that Furlani, people, living in these mountains, call it Iof Fuart - The Strong Mountain. Although being in the middle of its mountain group, Vis is much higher of neighbours so it is still from all sides eye-catching. From east and south it looks very massive, from west it is like a big Liberty Bell of Nature (see this picture) and from north it is a sharp pyramid, showing it's belongings to wild limestone Julian Alps.

Looking only Vis mountain (not the whole massif) its borders are the following: On north Nabojs is being attached to Vis at Skrbina Nabojsa (Nabojs Notch). Towards west it falls down into the Spranja valley. The south-west border towards the rest of the main crest of Western Julian Alps lies on Skrbina Zadnje Spranje (Notch). Towards south high slopes are falling all the way down to Jezerska dolina (Valle di Rio Lago). And towards east Vis group continues with a beautiful bouquet of three high neighbours: Gamsja Mati (Gamsmutter - Wild Goat Mother), Innominata (No Name Peak) and Divja Koza (Wild Goat). Over these also one of the most beautiful approaches towards Vis leads.

Vis is primarrily climbers and hikers mountain. Because its upper part is steep also on the south side it is not appropriate for tour skiing. Still, some lower lying slopes and couloirs offer in spring also nice skiing opportunities.

By marked paths Vis kan be climbed from south. At Rif. Corsi paths from several directions join and a few hundred meters higher also the east and west approach join. From there only one route leads to the top.

Routes Overview


Jof Fuart / Vis and its close neighbourhood with marked routes.

By marked routes (hard climbs excluded) the summit of Jof Fuart / Vis can be reached from many sides, but ultimately all routes join with the one over southern slopes. The northern, eastern and western face are just too hard to host a marked route.

The natural base for ascending Jof Fuart / Vis from south is Rif. Corsi (hut), 1874m. It can be reached by marked paths in 3 hours from Val Rio del Lago or from Sella Nevea (saddle). Besides this shortest approach the hut (and afterwards the summit of Jof Fuart / Vis) can be reached also from other valleys in Jof Fuart / Vis subgroup:
- From Riobianco / Beli potok valley ( there's Rif. Brunner and Gorizia bivouac) over the Forcella del Vallone (notch), 2180m.
- From Riofredo / Mrzli potok valley over the Riofredo notch, 2240m.
- From Saissera / Zajzera (there's Mazzeni bivouac) over the Forcella Lavinal dell Orso / Skrbina sprednje Spranje, 2138m, or over the Forcella Mose / Skrbina zadnje Spranje, 2271m.
- From Altipiano del Montasio (there's Rif. Brazza).

Also once being on Rif. Corsi, one can choose more routes (actually three) to the summit of Jof Fuart / Vis. As they can be combined with approaches from other valleys (except the direct route), each will be mentioned in an appropriate combination.

1. From Rif. Corsi over S slopes. This is the most direct and easy route. Marked, but still steep and secured on some places. 2h 30min from the hut, 5h 30min from car (the road).

2. From Rif. Corsi over Forcella Mose, 2271m. Longer and harder, but more beautiful than #1. Marked, steep, secured on some places. From the hut to Moses notch 1h 30min, the same to the top. 6h from car (the road).

3. From Rif. Corsi over Forcella di Riofredo, 2240m. Longer and harder than both #1 and #2, but again more beautiful. Marked, secured, on the upper part medium hard ferratta (named: Anita Goitan). From the hut to Riofredo notch 1h 30min, from there by ferrata Anita Goitan, crossing below all summits east of Jof Fuart / Vis, 3h more to the summit. 6-7h from car (the road).

4. From Saissera over Forcella Mose / Skrbina zadnje Spranje, 2271m. Rarely used, hard approach, the couloir to Moses notch (not marked) recommended only in late spring and early summer. Altogether 5h 30min - 4h to the notch, 1h 30min more to the summit.

5. From Saissera over Forcella Lavinal dell Orso / Skrbina sprednje Spranje (notch), 2138m. Very long, but nice ascent, the normal option around the western side. The ravine below notch till mid summer covered with snow. 3h 30min to here. From the notch you must go over the ridge of Cime Castrein / Kostrunove spice, 2502m, and down to Forcella Mose / Skrbina zadnje Spranje, 2271m - this takes you 2h. Then 1h 30min more to the summit. Altogether 7h or even some more from car (the road).

6. Through Riobianco valley. From the main valley Rio del Lago into Riobianco valley and up to Forcella del Vallone, 2180m. Then some 100m down and up again to Forcella di Riofredo, 2240m. From here like in #3 by Anita Goitan ferrata to the summit. Long and demanding route, marked all the time, very beautiful. To Forcella del Vallone (notch) 3h 30min, further 1h to Forcella di Riofredo, 3h more to the summit. 7h 30min.

7. Through Riofredo valley over Forcella di Riofredo, 2240m. As this valley is longer and not reachable by car, this is also a very long tour. But also demanding and very beautiful. From the main valley Rio del Lago (you leave your car in Riofredo village) 4h 30min to the notch and then like in #3 by Anita Goitan ferrata in 3h to the summit. So altogether 7h 30min. The upper part of Riofredo valley can be reached also from Saissera valley, more concrete from the Pellarini hut. In this case you must cross the Sella Carnizza (notch), 1767m, and the tour can hardly be done in one day.

8. Through the north-east ravine - Gola Nord Est. This hard route (in terms of hiking) was first climbed by J. Kugy and his guides, later in World War I it was secured for military purposes (also by his team). Towards the end of 20th century it was abandoned, destroyed by avalanches and so returned into the original medium hard climb. Today it is secured and marked again, but still represents a hard hike. Today (2013) only a few short sections are secured, for those a ferrata difficulty gradig "D" would apply. The rest is unprotected and requires easy climbing of difficulty UIAA II. The route is alčso not marked sufficiently, so in quite some places good orientation is needed. The NE ravine exits on the notch between Jof Fuart / Vis and the neighbouring Madre dei Camosci, some 30 min below the summit. From the Pellerini hut 4-5 h, from car in Saissera valley 7 h.

Getting There



The nearest town is Tarvisio - in the very north-east part of Italy. Through the town the highway Villach - Udine runs. For the south approach you take from Tarvisio the route in Valle rio da Lago (Jezerska dolina) and through Cave del Predil (Rabelj) drive to Sella Nevea (Nevejsko sedlo) Pass, 1142m. There a trailhead starts for Rif. Corsi (hut). Two longer but more beautiful paths to the Corsi hut start also before Sella Nevea, one or two kilometers after the beautiful Rabelj Lake. To approach Vis from north, you enter the beautiful Valbruna (Zajzera) valley some 10 km west from Tarvisio. Before the north wall of the mountain broad Nabojs rises, so the two approaches avoid it and arrive the main Vis ridge west and east of its peak (through Spranja Valley and Zabniska Krnica Valley).

Map: Tabacco 1:25000 No.19

Red Tape

There are no limitations.

When To Climb

Summer and autumn are the best seasons. In Julian Alps in summer a stable weather usually starts somewhere in July and months from August to October are the best. In early July on some parts of north routes dangerous snow rests can lie.

Camping

The best starting point for a summit tour is Refiugio Guido Corsi (hut), 1854m, lying on the south slopes of Vis massif. It can be reached in 3h from Sella Nevea Pass. Also the path from Val Rio da Lago will take you 3h and the other one through Val Riobianco (Dolina Belega potoka = White Creek Valley) will take you about 4h. In Val Riobianco another hut lies - Rif. Guido Brunner, 1380m, which can be reached in a good hour from the main valley. Because this is a good climbing area on the altitude of 1950m also a bivouac lies (Bivacco Gorizia).

West of Vis Valbruna Valley ends with Spranja. On the upper part of it Bivacco Dario Mazzeni, 1630m lies. It can be reached from the end of the road in 2h.

Similarly on the eastern part of Vis in Zabniska krnica on the altitude of 1500m Rif. Pellarini (hut) lies. It can be reached from the road in Valbruna in 2h. Tel.: 0428.60135, opened from June 20th to September 20th.

In valleys there is a camping place near Rabelj Lake and also one near Tarvisio.

So far I could find no useful internet links.

Images