Overview  Sunset at Great Sand Dunes National Park with Crestone Peak's twin summits in the distance. Photo by Mark Doiron
Crestone Peak is Colorado’s 7th highest mountain, and one of the most challenging fourteeners to climb. Although not the highest of the Sangre De Cristo range, Crestone Peak is clearly the reigning monarch in terms of character. For those who have climbed it, it is often referred to as “The Peak.” Among the last of the fourteeners to be scaled, along with Crestone Needle, this remote and rugged mountain was once thought impossible to climb. The easiest route is not the shortest or most direct. 800 feet of elevation must be lost and regained, another 2,000 feet must be climbed up the sustained Red Couloir to the summit, and all climbing is rated at least Class 3. Considerable climbing experience is recommended before attempting this formidable mountain.
Crestone Peak has two summits, both equal in power, each the highest point in their respective Saguache and Custer counties. The western summit is 34 feet higher. At one time, there was considerable conversation as to which summit should qualify as THE top, despite the higher western summit’s elevation. However, the controversy is now over as the western summit is inarguably the highest. When you reach the summit, you can be your own judge, and for some this is a matter best left between you and the mountain.
Adding to the difficulty of the climb is getting there. The Crestone group of mountains is one of the more difficult to reach from any direction. Early in your research you will find a great commitment is required to claim Crestone Peak or any of its lofty neighbors. Go prepared for a challenge and the experience of a life time!
Except for some minor additions, most of the text and information on this page was done by Aaron Johnson. I invite you to look at more of Aaron's pages through his profile and see other fine examples of SummitPost mountain pages. It was his generosity which made my ownership of this page possible. Thanks Aaron.Getting ThereThe following instructions are referrenced from Gerry Roach's "Colorado Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs"
SOUTH COLONY LAKES TRAILHEAD
From Westcliffe, Colorado: Drive southwest on highway 69 about 4.5 miles to Colfax Lane (CO119) where there is a Forest Service sign. Turn right (south) and go another 5.5 miles until the road ends, then turn right (going west) on South Colony Road (Forest Service Road 120) for 1.5 miles where there is a fairly large parking lot on the right. 2WD vehicles can park here but recent improvements in the road (July 2006) allow 2WD vehicles to continue for another two miles to near the Rainbow Trail marker and the first creek crossing. After this, the next three miles are an extremely rough 4WD road (FR120). There is another parking lot at the end of the 4WD road.
 Crestone Peak 7.5 minute quad illustrating the Standard Route up the Red Couloir on the South face(red), and the alternate (former standard) Northwest Couloir route (blue) from South Colony Lakes basin. Drawing by Aaron Johnson
SOUTH COLONY ROAD UPDATE: MARCH 28, 2006The Forest Service has initiated a scoping process as a preliminary action for doing an environmental assessment for management changes in the South Colony Lakes Basin in the Sangre de Cristo range of southern Colorado.
The FS is proposing the following, and requesting public input.
1) close the South Colony jeep road to vehicle travel (except for emergency and administrative uses) approximately 2.5 miles below the current terminus of this road.
2) construct a parking area, toilet(s), and camping facilities near the proposed road closure point.
3) prohibit campfires within 1 mile of Lower and Upper South Colony Lakes.
4) restrict camping within 1 mile of Lower and Upper South Colony Lakes to "designated campsites" only.
The road closure point will be about 1/2 mile west of the junction with the Rainbow Trail and immediately before the first stream crossing. A parking lot, toilets, information kiosk, footbridge, and camping facilities would be constructed near the closure point, with hardened camping sites on both sides of the stream. Regarding the campfire ban, this is reflective of the overuse of firewood gathering near the lower lake. Most lower dead branches on live trees have been broken off, and campers are breaking off old bristlecone and subalpine fir branches from live trees. The lower parts of the Basin have more abundant firewood resources.
Backcountry use in the upper Basin is exceeding FS standards for "crowding" on every summer weekend and many weekdays. Restricting camping in the upper Basin to designated campsites will protect the resource, allow the most environmentally stable sites to be hardened and managed for sustained camping use, and will allow 50+less desirable sites tob e reclaimed and revegetated. The road continues to deteriorate with subsequent damage to vehicles attempting to drive the road. Also, re-routing of the road is not an option. From the 2-wheel drive parking lot at the very bottom, the existing road crosses 1.5 miles of private land before entering the national forest, open to the public under an apparent county easement. The landowners do not want public camping or parking on their property.
Further, there is a need to protect the $500,000 cash, and 40,000 volunteer hours, investment in trail restoration and hardened climbing routes in the upper Basin. The rebuilt routes are handling the current use level, but likely will deteriorate if recreation use continues to increase at the present rate. The Rocky Mountain Field Institute of Colorado springs (formerly the American Mountain Foundation) is partnering with the University of Colorado in a study to determine the appropriate recreation use level in the Basin thatis most compatible with protection of the resource and maintaining an acceptable social experience (meaning you didn't have a Grays/Torreys "mob" experience).
There is some discussion of a fee system for the area. However, that would be a separate environmental assessment. The FS is not asking for comments on fees at this time.
Downside of the proposed changes, per the FS, is that removing easy vehicle access may not solve the problems of too many persons in the upper Basin (note that only about 15% of users are motorized recreationists, with the remainder being primarily 14er climbers). Making east side access more difficult may cause more use from the west side, where the trails are mostly primitive in nature and there are private land concerns.
CMC Conservation expects to endorse the four basic FS proposals as they are an attempt to preserve the resource while still allowing for good access by the climbing community. However, we also would like to solicit comments from CMC leaders and other activists. We may ask for individual comments when a proposed environmental assessment is released by the FS later this year. Please send any thoughts you may have to me, as I will be writing the CMC comments, as requested by Vera Smith, our Conservation Director, since I do most of the Club's access work.
Thanks very much.
Steve Bonowski, Sr. Policy Advisor
CMC Conservation Department
AS OF JUNE 27, 2007, THE ROAD IS STILL OPEN TO THE UPPER 4-WHEEL DRIVE TRAILHEAD. THE FOREST SERVICE IN WESTCLIFFE REPORTS THAT THERE IS NOT A DEFINITE DATE FOR CLOSING THE ROAD, BUT THAT PLANS ARE IN THE WORKS. THE ROAD SHOULD BE OPEN ALL SUMMER OF 2007.
SPANISH CREEK TRAILHEAD
This lengthy, remote approach is used to access Crestone Peak from the west and climb the mountain via the Northwest Couloir and other northern routes. Kit Carson Peak can also be approached from here. The trail character should be considered primitive. Route finding and bushwacking may be required.
From the north, go 13.8 miles south on Colorado 17 from the junction of US 285. From the south, go 16.8 miles north on Colorado 17 from the junction of Colorado 112 in the town of Hooper. A half mile south of Moffat, turn east onto a paved road, driving 11.8 miles east to the Baca Grande Chalets Grants. See the RED TAPE section.
Turn south and follow Camino Baca Grande through the subdivision, crossing Crestone Creek (.8 mile), Willow Creek (2.2 miles), where the road becomes dirt, and on to Spanish Creek at 3.6 miles. Parking and the beginning of the trail are on the north side of the creek.
COTTONWOOD CREEK TRAILHEAD
This trailhead is no longer open. The Manitou Foundation is no longer allowing access through their property. See red tape section.Standard Route & OptionsSTANDARD ROUTE FROM SOUTH COLONY LAKES TRAILHEAD
From the gate, follow the road up the valley toward Broken Hand peak, which turns north, narrows to a trail and enters the trees. The route turns west again once in the basin, bypassing more ideal campsites. The trail gradually climbs and switchbacks up rocky slopes and leads to Broken Hand Pass, the saddle between Broken Hand Peak and Crestone Needle. For some, this is the most arduous part of the day. The ascent to the pass is on steep loose scree, talus and hard packed dirt, the result of heavy foot traffic over the years.
 Route up the red couloir. Photo and drawing by Alan Ellis
Descend 800 feet down the grassy west side of the pass to the secluded Cottonwood Lake. The climb for the Cottonwood Lake approach also begins at this point. A good trail leads around the north side of the lake and gets around the west end of a buttress coming from the Crestone Needle. The trail angles northward and you get your first look at the serious climb ahead of you. From the basin, 2000 feet of climbing await you, most of it Class 3, all the way up the definitive Red Couloir in the south face of Crestone Peak.
Angle over to your right, following the fading trail up through tundra. Cairns will likely be present, leading onto a shelf upon which you can angle left to gain access to the Red Couloir. The red and white streaked rock is very hard and has weathered erosion forces well. The result is a series of steps, ladders, ledges and chutes, mostly on the right side of the couloir. Many fun scrambling choices will present themselves. Depending on your group’s ability, plan on at least two hours of sustained Class 3 climbing up the south face.
At the top of the couloir is a spot known as the Red Saddle, a tiny perch between the Peak’s two distinct summits. From here, slightly harder Class 3 climbing leads to the east summit. A brief, moderately exposed traverse that is well traveled leads to the higher western summit, which involves a scramble over a rib, a drop of about five feet and a final scramble to the top. Both summits feature lots of air! Return the same route.
NOTE: Upon arrival at lower South Colony lake, the trail forks, and a brand new wooden sign will greet you. The sign says, "Crestone Needle Standard Route," with an arrow pointing to the left. Take the left fork to begin the approach to Broken Hand Pass, and the Standard South Face (Red Couloir) route of Crestone Peak. Take the right fork if doing the Northwest Couloir route on Crestone Peak.
NORTHWEST COULOIR
The most direct route, and long considered the standard route, is the northwest couloir, which meets the Standard Route at the Red Saddle between the Peak’s summits. A good description of the route can be referenced in Gerry Roach’s “Colorado Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs.” The route is also accessed from the Spanish Creek approach. This is a Class 4 route, involving considerable exposure and changing conditions. It is not recommended for novice climbers. See the route description in the ROUTES section.
A round trip combination of the Standard and Northwest Couloir is possible. Climbing the Northwest Couloir and descending the Standard route is feasible. Ascending the Standard and descending the Northwest Couloir requires considerable route finding and mountaineering skills, and familiarity with the Northwest Couloir route is highly recommended.
COMBINATION ROUTES
Considered one of four classic traverses in Colorado, these routes involve climbing both the Needle and the Peak. There is a higher and lower traverse. Both require experience, and serious exposure is sustained for most of your time on the mountains and the ridge between them. The lower route is rated Class 4 and is done by some without rope and rack. The higher route is a technical traverse requiring equipment and mountaineering skills. Both routes include a dowbclimb/rappel or direct ascent of the Needle’s north face, and exposure is reportedly awesome. Do your research, and know your ability, gear and partners very well before attempting.
SP member Matt Mahoney has submitted an excellent route illustration and route description of the lower traverse to the Crestone Needle page. Be sure to visit the Crestone Needle page for more valuable information on this classic traverse and options.
Established technical climbing routes for Crestone Peak include the North Buttress, North Pillar, House and India. If you have climbed any of these routes, the Northwest Couloir, a Combination, or a new route, you are encouraged to SUBMIT YOUR ROUTE under the ROUTES section, a TRIP REPORT or both. Photos depicting your route are encouraged, which can be inserted in your route description or in the Climbing Gallery section on this page. Thank you!Red TapeNo permits required. Crestone Peak is located in the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness. Please observe wilderness protocols during your visit.
The South Colony road is bordered by private property, as are the west approaches for the Spanish/Cottonwood Creek access. Please observe land owner's rights, obtain permission for entry and remain on designated trails.
If attempting to climb Crestone Peak from the Cottonwood Creek trailhead in the San Luis Valley, there is private property which must be crossed. This property belongs to the Manitou Foundation. As of 2007, they are no longer granting permission to cross their property. Contact info: P.O. Box 130, Crestone, CO 81131. Phone: (719) 256-4267 Email: spirit@manitou.org
When To Climb  Crestone Peak from the north in September. Photo by LarryV
The best time to climb Crestone Peak in optimal dry conditions is July to August. September can be a good time to climb, but early snows can increase difficulty of these routes dramatically. Climbing October through June will be in winter conditions. Steep snow and ice will be encountered. The Northwest Couloir may have snow and ice year round.
Access to the mountain in winter extends the outing considerably in terms of time and mileage. Avalanches would occur within the wilderness and rescue/recovery would be difficult and likely delayed. While not impossible, winter ascents are rare and not recommended.CampingGood camping can be found along the last mile of the South Colony Road, just past the termination gate, and around the lower South Colony Lake. No camping is allowed withing 300 feet of either Lower or Upper South Colony Lake. For the western approaches, or for the Standard route from Broken Hand Pass, good camping is available at Cottonwood Lake. Good camping can be found near tree line on the Spanish Creek approach.
Mountain ConditionsSan Isabel National Forest
2840 Kachina Drive
Pueblo, Colorado 81008
(719) 553-1400
http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc
Crestone Peak is in a remote location in a large wilderness area. Any acquired information should NOT be considered specific for the mountain due to constantly changing conditions on the mountain.
Climbing HistoryAccording to the various revised editions of Guide to the Colorado Mountain by Robert Ormes, more commonly known as the Colorado Mountain Club (CMC) guide, The Crestones were the last fourteeners to be climbed. Prominent Colorado mountaineering figure Albert Ellingwood (of La Plata Peak’s Ellingwood Ridge fame) successfully climbed both mountains in 1916, accompanied by Eleanor Davis Ehrman. A rare breed to be sure, this notable female mountaineer was still relating the account of their historic climb in 1990 at the age of 104. In 1925, Ellingwood and partners returned to climb the Crestone Needle via the classic Ellingwood Arete, now regarded a classic technical route in North America.  Established technical routes on the Crestones. #1-Merhar #2-Whitney #3-Ellingwood Arete #4-India #5-House Buttress #6-Arnold Michel. Scanned and submitted by Aaron Johnson
Due to the remoteness of these mountains, historic climbs were sporadic when compared to other Colorado mountains, but a number of important technical routes were established in following years that are still in use today. They include the Merhar, Whitney, Arnold-Michel (Needle), India, and House Buttress (Peak) routes. More recent routes on the Peak include the North Buttress (Class 4) and the North Pillar (Class 5.8).
Route illustration photo by Harry Standley scanned from the Fourth Revised Edition of Guide to the Colorado Mountains by Robert Ormes.External Links Images
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Sangre de Cristo Mountains
