Welcome to SP!  -
Pointe Lachenal

Pointe Lachenal

Pointe Lachenal

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Chamonix, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.86540°N / 6.89680°E

Object Title: Pointe Lachenal

Elevation: 11853 ft / 3613 m


Page By: noah

Created/Edited: Sep 12, 2004 / Nov 19, 2005

Object ID: 153066

Hits: 15525 

Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote



Named after the famous Chamonix guide Louis Lachenal, this granite rock tower offers a wealth of rock climbing routes from UIAA V+ to VII+ and upwards on it's SE face, in a magnificent alpine setting next to Mt. Blanc du Tacul, above the Glacier du Geant.

Easily accessible from the Aig. du Midi telepherique, perfect for one-day round trips up high for acclimatization then back to the valley to sleep.


Getting There

From the Aiguille du Midi telepherique station descend to the Col du Midi, cross the Col and descend the small slope between the Gros Rognon and Pointe Lachnal then make your way towards the SE face. One hour in descent from Aig. du Midi; one and a half hours for the ascent back to Aig. du Midi Station.

Spending the night

Various options for spending the night around 3500 meters:

Bivy on the Col du Midi in a tent or snow trench. Perfectly legal. Leaving a tent up after sunrise is offically prohibited but so is driving 140 km/h. The reason for this is largely an attempt to reduce the environmental impact on the area but also to make the landing of helicopters (in the case of rescues) safer and easier for all involved.

See Rahel's Abri Simond bivouac hut & Cosmiques refuge page for info on the two shelters plus what shelter the Aig. du Midi Station itself may provide.

Routes Overview

Here is a small list, with indicative cost (where published) if guided, of the more than 25 listed routes on this rock tower:

Marylene UIAA V/V+ 220 meters; guided cost @ 310 euro

Contamine UIAA VII+ if 50 meter crack is free-climbed; aided the UIAA rating drops to a V/V+; 250 meters; guided cost @ 350 euro

Harold and Maud UIAA VII+ 250 meters; guided cost @ 390 euro

For more routes click here.

When to climb

These routes are said to clear relatively quickly after bad weather. If you have the necessary equipment to cross the Glacier du Geant in early spring and late winter, they are also supposed to be quite climbable during these periods, as well as the usual summer climbing period.

Other resources

For full info about Chamonix, see Rahel's Mont Blanc Group page.

For Chamonix & Vallee Blanche weather forecast.

Miscellaneous Info

Dated but well writen article that covers a lot of info regarding alpine climbing and the bolting of routes on the Mont Blanc Massif and beyond. If you like a bit of history or just want to know what's up with all the bolted routes, you'll enjoy this article.

Camping in Chamonix

>>L'ile Des Barrats
185 Chemin de I'ile des Barrats
04 5053 5144
Open from 8/5-1/10 53 sites 3 star

>>Les Rosieres
121 clos des Rosieres
04 5053 1042 www.campinglesrosieres.com
open from 7/2 - 30/9 127 sites 3 star

>>Les Arolles
281 chemin du Cry
04 5053 1430
15/6 - 30/9 30 sites 2 stars

>>Les Molliasses
Chemin a Batiorert
04 5053 1681
open 1/6 - 15/9 164 sites 2 stars


La Mer De Glace
200 Chemin de la Bagna
04 5053 0863 or 04 5053 4403
open 10/6 - 15/9 150 sites 3 stars


Les Drus
BP 30
04 50 53 4920
open 28/3 - 30/9 70 sites 2 stars


>>Glacier d' Argentiere
58 Chemin des Moillettes
04 5054 1736 or 04 5054 0373
open 15/5 - 30/9 80 sites 2 stars


>>Les Deux Glaciers
80 rte des Tissieres
04 5053 1584
open 15/12 - 15/11 135 sites 3 stars

>>Les Marmottes
140 Chemin des Doux
04 5053 6124
open 15/6 - 30/9 100 sites 3 stars

>>Les Cimes
28 route des Tissieres
04 5053 5893
open 1/6 - 30/9 100 sites 2 stars

>> Les Ecureuils
Chemin des Doux
04 5053 8311
open 1/4 - 30/9 45 sites 2 stars

>>Les Verneys
180 route des Tissieres
04 5053 1584
open 1/6 - 15/9 70 sites 2 stars

>> Le Grand Champ
04 5053 0483
open 1/5 - 10/10 100 sites 1 star


Pointe Lachenal La pointe LachenalLa punta Lachenal (3613 m) e l\'aiguille du Midi (3842 m)La pointe Lachenal (3613 m)Pointe Lachenal La pointe Lachenal (3613 m) versante Ela pointe Lachenal (3613 m.)
Pointe LachenalJerone making the traverse,...LachenalClimbers passing the Pointes Lachenal2nd summit of the Pointes LachenalLooking to the east along the...Pointes Lachenal traverse
[ View Gallery - 26 More Images ]