Piglimò is a rocky peak located on the great dorsal that from the summit ridge of Monte Rosa descends to Maggiore lake dividing the two most important area of the NE of Piedmont, ValSesia and Val D'Ossola.
The north summit(2888m), between the passes of Turlo and of the Little Altar, is the common climax of the valleys of Sesia, Sermenza and Quarazzola rivers and the Nord-end of Mount Tagliaferro range.
The main summit is the southern one, connected to the northern one by an almost horizontal ridge long less than 100 meters that after reaching the maximum altitude point continues toward south forming the pinnacle called Punta Giacomo Chiara and descends at last at Piglimò Pass, under the N face of Corno Mud.
Piglimò is rarely climbed by the hikers that scramble to Turlo and Little Altar and no important routes are traced on its flanks, except for the one of the E pillar of Punta Giacomo Chiara that is often considered as a summit on its own.
From the top of Piglimò is possible to enjoy a spectacular view, especially on Monte Rosa and Punta Grober and the wild environment offers the possibility of encountering Ibexis, Chamoises and marmots.
The West face seen from Bors Valley
The trailheads for Piglimò are the villages of Rima(1400m), in Val Sermenza, of Alagna(1150m) in Val Sesia and of Macugnaga(1120m) in Val Anzasca.
To reach Rima or Alagna the quickest route is to follow the A26 Milano-Genova highway, exit at Romagnano Sesia and then follow the main road of Valsesia till Balmuccia, here you have to continue on the principal road to reach Alagna or take the provincial road of Valsermenza to reach instead Rima.
To get get to Macugnaga you have instead to follow the SS33 Milano-Sempione highway till the exit of Pidimulera, then take the main road of Anzasca Valley till Macugnaga.
Macugnaga village is made up of three smaller localities: Borca, Staffa and Pecetto.
Borca is the trailhead for Quarazza Valley, where you can approach the north flank of Piglimò.
The most useful hut is ‘Emiliano Lanti’
(2100m) in Quarazza Valley along the route to Turlo pass.
This hut can be used as a support to break in two days the long trails to the passes of Turlo and of the ‘little Altar’ from this side.
These passes are used to engage the East an West ridge of the mountain.
Above Alagna the ‘Pastore'
hut(1570m) can be used as trailhead for ascending the peak from the side of Val Sesia.
This hut is easy reachable in 20 minutes from the locality called ‘Acqua Bianca’ (‘White water’), at less than 10 kilometers at north of Alagna.
The most frequented routes to Piglimò are those that reach the northern summit starting from the Turlo pass or from the ‘Little Altar’ pass and following respectively the West and the East ridge.
It’s common to stop at the North summit without going on to the main summit, the difference in elevation is in fact negligible and the view is more interesting from the north top, where the landscape embrace also the summits of Quarazza valley.
From Turlo pass
This is the easiest route, both from the point of view of the technical difficulties and from the one one of finding the right way.
Turlo pass(2720m) can be reached from the locality ‘Acqua Bianca’ at 1500 meters, in Val Sesia, or from Borca(1120m) in Anzasca Valley, eventually sleeping at ‘Lanti’ hut.
The trail from both sides follows an old military path and is very easy.
From the pass follow entirely the West ridge till the North summit, (passages of I and II of UIAA scale), if you intend to go on to the south summit you have to follow the south ridge encountering some exposed passage.
Piglimò in winter from West
From Little Altar pass
Little Altar pass(2600m) is located at the basis of the east ridge of Piglimò, and can be reached from Rima in Val Sermenza or once again from Borca.
Lanti hut is still useful if you start from the side of Quarazza valley.
The trail from Rima is very easy and pleasant and starts directly from the village.
If you hike instead from Borca, after the Lanti hut, you have to scramble over a steep slope with unstable rocks often covered by snow(north face) , some I of UIAA scale.
From the Little Altar you have two possibilities:
1) hike towards the summit remaining initially on the south flank of the ridge, before you get under the ending pinnacle cross to the north flank of the ridge and from here reach the North summit, I, II and III of UIAA scale.
2) From the rocky circle on the south of the East ridge, hike towards south to get the to the basis of the Dorsal that from the north summit descends towards SE, then follow entirely this Ridge till the North Summit, I and II of UIAA scale.
Piglimò from 'Little Altar' pass
From Piglimò pass
The pass(2495m) is reachable without difficulties both from Rima or from the locality ‘Acqua Bianca’, on the side of Alagna.
From the pass follow entirely the south ridge till the summit, the summit of ‘Punta Giacomo Chiara’ can be climbed or turned around remaining on the West flank while to reach the South summits it's common to move on the East flank where the rocks are easier.
I, II and remaining near the ridge edge some III of UIAA scale.
Official sites of Alagna Valsesia and Macugnaga, with informations about the huts, the trails and the sleeping possibilities.
Site of High Valsesia Natural park
The site of the natura park where Piglimò is located, the park covers part of the territoies of Alagna and Rima.
Piglimò from the trail to 'Little Altar' pass